as far as compressor, how many hp did you get, I would think its not enough for body work as it wont pump enough cfm for air tools ie spray gun, D/A sander. I would rather let someone else do bodywork who knows what they're doing.
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440 http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks
Rather that going to Pep boys you might want to check out a couple other shop that are about 1 to 1.5 hour away from you. Eastwood in Pottstown PA and Harbor Freight in Dickson City both have month sales and you could save as much as 60% on some items if you catch the right sale.
Actually you would want the fan to blow the opposite way. You want it to blow out rather than in and put the filters on the inlet vents.
Wet sanding in body work has nothing to do with heat build up. The water is used as a lubricant to prevent little balls of sanding dust from forming which can clog the sand paper and gouge the surface is they become big enough. Wet sand paper is generally the black sand paper. There are several good books available. Oddly one of the best books several of me bodyman friends recommend for some wanting to learn the basics of body is the Monster Garage paint and body book. It is well written is words that are easy to usderstand without having to know any technical terminology or techniques already.
If you painting with acrylic enamel you should sand the surface with 320
If you are painting with Base Clear, you should finish with 500 (many body shops finish with 400 or even 320)
Wet sanding is used mostly when just re-clear coating (blending area's)
Make sure you use etch primer on any bare metal before applying 2 stage primer. Usually you can finish the body work area with 180 and then prime
If you buy proper no- clogging sand paper (example Norton that can be found a napa I beleive) you will not have the problem with the paper clogging. Make sure you use a light no clog body filler. Finishing it off with a 2 part puddy for pin holes. Not the Orange spot puddy that drys in the heat.
Make sure it is decently warm wherever you are painting to avoid any fisheyes, and the surface is cleaned using pre-clean before painting
Good luck, and with every stage block sand it, or you will get alot of waves when you see the finished product.
My car's the 1993 White. As other people have said, and as the pictures in my sig prove, they really screwed the paintjob up and the paint's peeling right off the primer, so I'm going to have to take every inch of paint off the car as painting over it would be pointless. It would just peel again. but so youo're saying there is no need to wet sand? I'm planning on primer, black base, clear. It would actually help if someone could give me a list of what I need in terms of painting products to get a good, long lasting results. I don't need a confusing novel on how to paint, I've got that down I'm just not sure on the process and what order. all I know is:
1. wash car throughly
2. Sand off old paint (wet or not?)
3. use some kind of chemical to clean bare metal (not sure of name)
4. use sray adhesive before applying body filler when repairing
5. body filler sanding and shaping
6. Primer
7. uhm, I don't need to sand primer before painting base do I?
8. Base coats
9 Clear coats
10. Sand with light sand paper to remove orange peel
11. Buff and wax
12. shiny new paintjob hopefully
If I'm missing any critical or helpful steps please add! thanks.
-Curt-
1993 GS
-MS front -functional molded hood scoop
-MS molded sides-shaved antenna
-Civic projectors -New black paintjob
1. Wash car
2. Sand old paint off (i would use 240 or 320 with a D/A
3. Apply body fill to bare metal
4. body filler sanding and shaping
5.Etch prime
6. High build primer
7. Sand primer with 320
8. Apply 4 coats of base (usually)
9. 2-3 coats of clear
10. Sand with light sand paper to remove orange peel
11. Polish with rubbing compound
12. Glaze
13.done (everyone has there own way of polishing or buffing) some
people use water and others don't depends on which products you choose
As for painting products since, I would go with faster drying clear, and meduim reducer, since you arn't baking it. When you go to buy your paint supplies, talk to who you are purchasing them from, they will be able to tell you best what works best with the products they sell.
ProspectMx3 wrote:1. Wash car
2. Sand old paint off (i would use 240 or 320 with a D/A
3. Apply body fill to bare metal
4. body filler sanding and shaping
5.Etch prime
6. High build primer
7. Sand primer with 320
8. Apply 4 coats of base (usually)
9. 2-3 coats of clear
10. Sand with light sand paper to remove orange peel
11. Polish with rubbing compound
12. Glaze
13.done (everyone has there own way of polishing or buffing) some
people use water and others don't depends on which products you choose
As for painting products since, I would go with faster drying clear, and meduim reducer, since you arn't baking it. When you go to buy your paint supplies, talk to who you are purchasing them from, they will be able to tell you best what works best with the products they sell.
What's a D/A? Would I have to sand all of my paint off if I wanted to give my car a new paint job? I have a 1993 Mazda MX-3 GS Special Edition and the Rasberry Metallic paint has seen better days. My sister is getting another Special Edition MX-3 that looks better than mine, so, I have to fix that . Also, how many gallons of primer, paint, and clear coat can I expect to use?
. Also, how many gallons of primer, paint, and clear coat can I expect to use?