I have adjusted my idle screw a couple times to try to fix a bit of a high idle, would that have anything to do with me running rich? And what should the air/fuel ratio be?
Sorry to dig up old bones, but did you guys ever find a source to this running rich problem?? The reason i ask is because i have this identical problem. The dyno showed my A/F was between 12 and 10:1 on my curve neck ZE running JE-50 vaf and KL31 ecu.
Was it fuel pressure regulator? O2 sensors? bad injectors?
Pauli, the Eunos 800 curved neck IM was used on a car that was mostly configured with an ATX. It (the Eunos 800) also used a MAF with it's ECU. Although I'm not 100% on what the actual ECU # was (maybe KL62), but the subtle change from a MAF (KL# unknown) and the KL62 ECU to a JE50 VAF and a KL31 or KL36 ECU could possibly account for the slight variance in the A/F readings. I would ensure that the O2's are in top shape first since they are a key factor in directing the ECU to regulate correct fuel mixtures. The oem FPR seems to be a unlikely yet constant item that doesn't seem to fatigue or fail routinely. Looking toward injector integrity would also be a likely area to focus on. So between good O2's and fully functional (and correct size) injectors, the A/F should be nominal. That said, nominal to Mazda means " a little on the rich side" for engine longevity.
The second is to build a coarse and fine trimpot box, which is
a poor mans solution to the problem as it can only really correct
WOT condition's where as the link interceptor scales across the
full motion range of the AFM.
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
Flightless, though can be found flying firstclass
Poor eyesight, though can spot a good pub at 100yards.
I am running a Straight neck KLZE, with a millenia manifold and a KL-36 ECU, and i had no CAI. When i dyno'd my car i got ~163 WHP and my air fuel ratios were around 12.2-11.9...the higher the RPM the richer it got.
I just installed a CAI so i hope to get some new numbers and new Air/Fuel ratios soon.
By the way i have a Walbro 255 HP and i know that kicked it up a lil, cause the stock MX-3 fuel pump was not doing the job.
I run a ze with the curved neck mani and K8 ecu plus vaf. Cat back and high flow cat..cold air. and a 3rd gen rx7 fuel pump.
I run only a lil bit rich according to my a/f ratio. and of course gets richer with higher rpm. Dont have a dyno sheet...but i ran a 14.2(quarter mile) with out the Curved neck mani. With the mani id do a lil better cause i can really feel a dif...not to mention it enabled me to finally beat my friends rx8(240hp) Of course the mx is tons lighter.
I remember when my knock sensor went bad my car ran like a-- and alot richer.
* * * * * * 92 Mx3 ZET, rear/front swaybars,srd crossmember,HKS SSQV,cold air,ZE with millinia mani and TB and 280cc injectors,INtrax springs with tokiko HP struts, Grounding kit, MotegiTrakLite wheels 17's at 14lbs each, MSnS Running fuel and spark,HEI mod,T3/To4E .60/.63 stage 3 turbine,3rd gen rx7 fuel pump, SSAC Headers/hotpipes ,38 ext tial wastegate, findanza flywheel, SBC TZ clutch/pressureplate,braille11pound battery/ magnum drilled F/R rotors,projectors, CXmotorsports almuminum intercooler.
Matt, I don't think I would want to cut corners with the second option but the Interceptlink looks interesting. Haven't opened all of the reference material from the link but initially it loks good. Are you using one Matt, or know of anyone there using it and what, if any, was there feedback?
Im not personally using a interceptlink, but have used a number
of link and link plus standalone ecu's.
The product's are of high standard, and have come along way from
when "link" first started out.
The one thing that has apleaded to me with link product's is they are
cost effective, he stocks all the parts at resonable cost i.e.
sensors / plugs / loom's / output devices @ conditionors.
There is a BIG! user base in NZ and oversea's
Prices..NZ these include G.S.T.
Interceptlink $360
Link Tuning module $332
it would pay to email link and ask if the interceptlink can be tunned
via a laptop then you would only need a SerialLink @ $98 and if
softwar is supplied?
Now ok i hear what about megasquirt, well just glancing at the prices
which seem to start at 250 US which is 316 NZ and then you still
got to install and tune and ?????? when it does'nt go right
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
Flightless, though can be found flying firstclass
Poor eyesight, though can spot a good pub at 100yards.
Well aston, look's like you can give john and the board
a run down on install and performance and tunning...
did you use the hand held controller, or a laptop?
Id guess you borrowed a hand held off a mate like we
do up here, one hand held to about 10 cars.
cheap buggers an't we!
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
Flightless, though can be found flying firstclass
Poor eyesight, though can spot a good pub at 100yards.
i bought everything, the intercept, the tuning module, and the gauge! can't remember what it cost all up (1 arm 'n half a leg i think?!)
you just splice it into the connector for the AFM, and adjust the values throughout the range...., really basic
the guys at Link walked me through it when i bought it (Christchurch company! )
Id forgotten about the gauge, do it once do it right
which to many members of this board don't seem to
get, hey you would be the perfect victim , err i mean
hamster for trying out the mainafold.
Kiwi - Native Bird Of New Zealand, semi-nocturnal, secretive bird
Flightless, though can be found flying firstclass
Poor eyesight, though can spot a good pub at 100yards.