BOV chatter?? Anyone have this prob?

[cjthor]

Well I just came back from lunch and set my turbo timer. As I was walking away from my car I heard this lil knock knocking noise comin from the engine.. I popped the hood and it is my BOV plunger opening and closing juust enough to make noise. Any ideas? I have the vac line running to the nipple right behind the throttle body. Help!!!

[JWMotorsports]

What BLOV are you using???

[Shady469]

try adjusting the spring rate of the valve.we had to mess with it on my Blitz...

[cjthor]

I have a Turbo XS type H-34.

[OsoSlo z28]

if it doesn't have an adjustment screw on the top....like my blitz ssbov dual drive <p>you need to put some washers in it to keep it closed at idle. once you have NO air escaping at idle, you're set.

[mx3man83]

Its trying to tell you something in morse code..."Jared....OH Jared....more boost!! MOre boost!!" just kiddin...sorry i had to say that..

[VizualXTC]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by mx3man83:
Its trying to tell you something in morse code..."Jared....OH Jared....more boost!! MOre boost!!" just kiddin...sorry i had to say that..<hr></blockquote><p>Jarid's gunna kill himself with the boost he has. The fool was drivin and filming at the same time.......not too safe if ya ask me <p>HAHAHA, Awesome vid tho Jarid.

[JWMotorsports]

OOOOOHHHHHH nooooo NOT THAT POS!!!!! I had the same one on my car. Now it's a paper weight cuz the TXS stuff SUCKS!!!!!! I've had person after person tell me this and I've experianced it my self. Mine went all to s@it after a few months of summer heat. Instead of going ....SSSSwwwwooooossshhhh, it just went tatatata. So I rejuvenated it with some WD-40. They use rubber O-rings (stupid!!!). Then slowly it started leaking under boost, so I put another pack washer in. Then my turbo blew up a few months later. Then I replaced the turbo. With the new turbo it took 8 pack washers to keep it from leaking. Then the turbo started going down hill again. Then the stupid Type H-34 Racing Bypass Valve started leaking, louder n louder with 8 FREAKING pack washers!. So I took it of and put my stock bypass valve back on. Now I get about 30miles more to a tank of gas but they second turbo is still battle worn and droping boost on the top end of the power band (It didn't used to).<p>This is why I'm doing the following:<p>-Use TXS Type H-34 Racing Bypass Valve as paper weight
-Replace it with a REAL BLOV, I'm gonna go with the HKS SSQV It uses a pull style relief valve instead of the push type that is common. The pull type on the HKS makes it IMPOSSIBLE for it to leak!!!!
-Use IHI VJ-13 & VJ-14 parts as display pieces
-Replace with a custom spec 400HP Garrett T3 Ballistic Dual Ball Bearing turbo base of the HKS GT Ballistic turbos (GT2835). Mine will have a T3 exhaust housing with something like a .60-.64 A/R.
LAG does aid in traction! The power on this turbo is VERY lenear!! <p>The 400HP T3 should be on in about 4weeks!!! Depends on how much time I have to play.