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Is there a possible swap or replacement for the little module that is on the rear cross member? One of my lines has a hole in it so I'm replacing all the steal tubing and was wondering what some of you do about this.

Can anyone tell me where to get the ss brake lines that every one has on this forum? I can't find anything...

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Well that makes things simple, that's the one I was looing at. What about the tubing that runs from booster to various caliper lines? Any place that sells that online?

Are you asking about running new hard lines for your braking system? There are several ways to do this.
- Buy OEM pre-made brake lines if available and affordable (haven't tried, but not likely)
- For repairs of shorter lines - like from the junction block rear right side you can usually buy pre-made steel lines that have been flared and have nuts ready for install. Buy a tube bender and bend it up so it fits and is out of the way of anything that could cause problems later.

For longer lines either
- "string" pre-made hard brake line one to another using female unions to replace longer lines with a bunch of pre-made lines
- buy a roll of tubing, nuts and a flare tool and make your own

If you are going to replace all your hard lines then I'd go with cunifer tubing and use this supplier link. They even have an excellent flaring tool for rent.

Tips:
- You can measure the line to be replaced with solder.
- The hard line from the rear junction block to the flexible line is 3/16" with metric flare nuts (10mm x1.0). This is pretty standard for Asian cars so just ask the shop for a line for your Mazda.
- The challenge with brake work on cars this old is the brake line nuts (which should spin on the tubing) have rusted to the hard line tube. Use your favorite rust penetrating spray and a small pick to loosen the rust around the tubing at the base of the nut. And always use a proper size flare nut wrench to avoid rounding or crushing the nut.

So... I replaced the one line and now a line from the booster to the rear blew a hole in it. I was trying to follow it into the engine bay, but I'm not sure I had my car lifted high enough for the amount of twisting/searching required. Is there a trick to replacing these two lines without wanting to take the engine out?

The line starts at the proportioning valve that is mounted higher up in the middle of the firewall. You might be able to get to the line by removing the intake manifold and reach the proportioning valve with a stubby flare wrench. Even then it looks like a crazy tight fit. Maybe get creative and slightly lift or lower the engine for better access. You will not be able to help thinking about how much easier it would be with the engine out.