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Im taking my engine and transmition out in a while for a better clutch, so when I have it out I want to do something to get more balls... so I was thinking abut getting it tuned after I do stuff to it. the get the rpm cranked up to 8500 - 9000 rpm

Soooooo heres my question...

what cams would be the best for high rpm and what should I do to the valve train? bigger valve springs or what should I do? I want to be able to rip the piss out of it on the track!

and is it too too risky when done with a good valve train?

plus. turbo has crossed my mind... but that would be down the road I kinda want something that would work turbod also

any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Ride on.

Getting a KL to rev at 9000 rpm somewhat reliable and actually make power up there will probably cost you more than a decent turbo setup.

it's kind of hard to build something that will perform well all motor and also with forced induction.

Yep...

I suspect the oil pump will not like these RPMs for long. Look on probetalk, cavitation was a speculated issue IIRC. I'd be thinking of external oil pump (leo323 style), interprep valve springs, lightweight flywheel, custom cams etc. Then you will want ITBs or a custom inlet manifold.

IMO Turbo is cheaper, more 'streetable', easier and you can hit >300bhp without opening the engine.

But oh the sweet sound of high revving KLs...

alright! so how much would it be to turbo and what would I have to do other than just slapping it on?

turbo setup + fuel supporting mod + fuel management

Sounds like you have no clue about turboing which means you probably have no clue. No disrespect intended but to dive head first into turboing your car without a thorough understanding is a receipt for disaster IMO. One type of tune if your using a BOF other if your not. Basic stuff like that. If he has time pattheriault can probably bring you up to speed on the basics and buying his stuff may be a good way to go. There is no substitute for researching things yourself. Find out what others have done then decide if owning an undependable money pit is the way you want to go. Good Luck.

+1 for Dan.

When it comes to turboing, if you have to ask what you need, you're not ready for it. Lots of research should be in your future unless you're paying someone to do it all for you.

You'll need:

Turbo w/ wastegate(either internally or externally gated)
Hot pipes(basically turbo manifold)
Intercooler
Intercooler piping
upgraded injectors(bigger size such as Millennia S injectors)
Blow off valve
Downpipe
Engine management system(megasquirt, Haltech, piggy back system, w/e)
A tune for you engine management system or run with a ghetto pig rich/mega lean mixture that you're car will hate
Some method to get oil to your turbo, via tapped oil pan/sandwhich adapter/etc

Recommended:

Boost gauge
Oil Pressure Gauge
Wideband gauge
Fuel Pressure regulator(aftermarket)
Some engine internals updated(or destroy your engine and pop in a new one instead, whatever)
A spare transmission for the eventuality of you destroying yours


If you have to ask about any of this, you gotta slow it down and do mad research.

Yes! As other says! Do a lot of research!

doesnt need to be kl related but i would read about forced induction in general! Try to understand what does every component do in a setup.

learn about tuning and management in general!

I'm going to stay out of the forced induction topic, but I have a bit to say on high rev all motor builds.

The best valvetrain in the world won't save a KL over 8,500 RPMs. The bottom end becomes a liability, and only a handful(maybe 3?) people in the world reliably spin their KL engine above 9K for this reason.

Boost will be cheaper, give you the numbers you want more readily, and is incredibly easy to get into. If you can afford the parts, and have someone else tune it, you can boost any engine without touching a wrench.

High power NA builds are far less common, because we are all poor sobs, for the most part.

A "few things" will need to be overcome if you want to "rev higher"

The crank will need to be reworked. specific oil galleys on the crank will be enlarged.
If you have an older block (93ish) the oil plugs on the block will be plugged.
The oil pump will be ported.

These three steps are what were told to me by Alistair from interprep performance. It's not a bad price to do these three steps, at about 400 dollars labor.


You will want to consider stronger rods, such as K1 rods. They are pricey.
then you will need to either bush your pistons for a larger wrist pin for the rods, or purchase the matching pistons for the K1 rods.
Once you have the crank worked, polished and ported, the appropriate rods and pistons, your flywheel of choice, the harmonic balancer you choose to use, whether aftermarket or used or new, you'll need to get it all balanced.

Then you move to the top end.
Stiffer valve springs (interprep is what I would recommend) and if you have the KL31 heads, you'll need a set of KL01 retainers for the intake side.
big fat cams. The downside is the loss of fuel pressure, which makes the engine run rich and ruins the streetability of the car. Interprep cams are expensive, but the best... at 1k for a set. but you'll burn fuel and high idle all the days of your life without engine management. For a streetable car, Kl31s and colt210s are the best option.

All of this isn't including all the other necessary accessories. bearings, gaskets, rings, head decked, cylinders honed, etc etc etc.

Do you see dollar signs floating around the room yet?

Now granted I revved freely with my KLZE to 8k often. Not a problem. 9k with the above work I wouldn't worry about.

It's not for the faint of heart... or wallet though.

Then after all that time, money and effort your friends can stand there and watch you spin the tire(s) off your car cuz unless your running slicks your traction will be horrible in relation to the power your engine will be producing. Now with all wheel drive well,,,,,,,,,,

Oh ya, $4-500 minimum for a new clutch to handle the additional power.

I think a good "streetable" powerband is around 250HP...

... and unless you go turbo, 250 is a far cry from "feasible" NA gains on a budget.

Disclaimer:
I have personally never played with turbo-ing so what I have to say is not much help, but I have been around and involved with a turbo install. Definitely read everything ever and research, research, research! My SO read everything for months before attempting it and is still only running 8lbs of boost to make sure everything is working as it should. Before that, there was another month or so tinkering with the ECU and fuel maps. It puts a lot of stress on things; so definitely save up, then save up some more to make sure the components others have listed are up to snuff. I would recommend saving up a LOT for a quality turbo kit with quality parts. I've seen an eBay kit in real life, and it works, but the parts are cheap and are less likely to fit well and the chances of getting the wrong parts are higher, as well. Nothing like having the wastegate flange crack after a month. After the pipe didn't fit the car correctly anyway.

I'm not much help regarding this topic aside from that, but apparently Megasquirt has plug-and-play systems for the MX-3. I can't speak for specific models and other members likely have way more technical information around the boards. And if you live anywhere with variable weather, you will want to make sure that if you do play with a custom fuel map, make sure is tuned to handle the weather. Like cold starts.