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Hello All,
I have a 1993 MX-3 GS I had to replace the clutch and while I was waiting for parts I also replaced the cv's, the intermediate shaft bearing and seals, and unfortunately the valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gasket. In short after replacing the gaskets and plugs the car will not start. When you first crank it, it sounds like it's going to start right up but just won't. It also seems like you smell allot of gas after trying to start the engine. I've looked over all the connections 3 or 4 times and they all seem right and I see nothing that isn't connected. It never backfires, and I've pulled a couple of the plugs to check for spark and it is sparking. Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Any chance your plug wires are in the wrong firing order? From rear head to front is 1-3-5 and 2-4-6.

Fuel lines aren't mixed up are they?

thank you for the replies. I have the fuel line from the can filter on the post closet to the throttle body. I've checked the wires a couple times and they appear to be right, the wires also have the cylnder numbers on them which helped. It's the weirdest thing because it sounds like it wants to start but thne after a cycle its like something is telling it not to run or the timing sequence is messed up from the ecu. I got the piston to the top of 1 and 4 and pulled the distributor and it was on 4, can't see where TDC is because all the hoses are still on. When I removed the clutch the flywheel did turn a tiny bit but nothing on the engine was disconnected so everything should of spun with it. The weird thing is there is no backfiring.

Sounds like your fuel lines are connected correctly.
Fuel pump -> fuel filter -> fuel rail nearest throttle body (back, nearest firewall or right side of engine)
Fuel return is on the rail with the fuel pressure regulator (looks like a hat with vacuum connection)

If spark is not coming at the right time to burn the gas you will get a strong raw fuel smell.

Did you disconnect spark plug wires from both the spark plugs and distributor cap? If not then I'll trust the connections at the distributor cap are in the correct order. So then just double check the numbers on the wires with the correct cylinder location:

passenger firewall
front of engine (belts) 1 3 5
front of engine (belts) 2 4 6
front bumper

Check the distributor cap if you pulled the wires there. The cap should have numbers marked on the cap. The numbers are NOT sequential. Going around counterclockwise 1-2-3-5-4-6

Finally check your connections. One common cause of no start is disconnected VAF. That is the air flow sensor mounted in the intake tube in front of the throttle body.

check the vacuum lines on the backside of the intake, its most likely choking out from the extra air if something came loose as you already have fuel and spark. Also if i understand what your saying correctly is that you do actually get ignition and the motor starts to run for a split second on its own before cutting out, correct?

If not and you're not actually getting ignition pull #1cyl spark plug (closest to the passanger side, or from the front of the car, the first plug by the timing cover under the intake manifold), then place a long extension down the cylinder and turn it over by hand till it is at its highest point and then pull your distributer cover to make sure the cap is pointing to cyl 1 at the correct time.

Really should be a simple task, go back through what you did its not like you did anything major you cant backtrace, GL

Fuel
Fire
Timing

if you have all three it will run.

Fuel can be messed up if the air is not being metered properly. As others have said make sure there are no leaks into the intake after the air flow meter and make sure it is plugged in. If the fuel lines are backwards the fuel cut is triggered because the ECU reads pressure at the fuel rail as the pump pushes against the wrong side of the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Crank the engine for a few seconds and pull one of the front plugs. If you're getting fuel the plug should be wet.

Sounds like you have fire.

Timing can be messed up a number of ways. Most of them have been mentioned. Verify the wires against the numbers on the cap first then make sure you understand which cylinder is no.1 thru 6. A lot of people think they do and don't.

The arrow points to the passenger side and the "LH" bank is the front.
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... B2-003.gif

Remove the front valve cover and visually verify that the cams turn when you turn the crankshaft by hand. If the timing belt is damaged the cams will not turn. They probably will but it's easy to check.

Move the crankshaft until cyl no.1 is at TDC ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. On the compression stroke both intake and exhaust valves are closed and when you move the piston up in the cylinder it will push air out the spark plug hole when you put your finger over it. At TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is open and you won't feel the air come out. Use the long extension trick that was described to make sure the piston is at TDC, but then make sure you're on the right stroke. If you don't feel the puff of air just turn the crankshaft 360º and you will be at TDCC.

If you get this far you will know that the timing belt is at least turning and you're definitely at TDCC, now remove the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing toward no1. Last you have to check to make sure the timing marks on the cam pulleys are aligned. If the crank and both cam pulleys are aligned, the wires are all in the right place, the rotor is at No1 and you still haven't found something out of the ordinary...

you probably have a ghost in your ECU.

Also, In your head you may be ignoring what people are saying about the placement/order of the ignition wires because you've already checked it while looking at the manual. Please be aware that there are a couple versions of MX-3 manuals that have incorrect info on this. Check your wires to what has been said here, not your manual.

Just so you know, many of us have had to go through this process especially after doing an engine swap. Be patient and you'll find the problem. Check that the big stubby short vac hose on the back of the intake is plugged in.

I put the car back on jackstands, removed the wires and plugs and I'm trying to get it TDC but when I try to turn the crank over it goes like maybe 1 rotation and stops dead, won't budge, like it's hitting a hard stop. I have the car in nuetral and not sure what is causing it not to turn, am I missing something? I was trying to avoid having to take the intake back off (worried I'll ruin the gaskets, but then again what good is a non running car,) and to get the # 1,3, and 5 cylinders I have to take off the intake. I did look in the oil fill cap while it was being cranked and the cam gear for 2,4, and 6 is turning but unsure of the other side. Not sure about this crank coming to a hard stop which is really worrying.

I know this might seem like it's obvious but is the battery fully charged? Starter is in good shape?

garp01us wrote:I put the car back on jackstands, removed the wires and plugs and I'm trying to get it TDC but when I try to turn the crank over it goes like maybe 1 rotation and stops dead, won't budge, like it's hitting a hard stop. I have the car in nuetral and not sure what is causing it not to turn, am I missing something?

Sounds like there's something in one of the pistons stopping it from reaching TDC. By that I mean some thing like a rock, nut, etc. Better check that out. I had a similar situation happen to me.

Silly me, I thought you couldn't get it to crank further when turning the key, not when turning it by hand. Dan seems to be on the ball with what to do next.

If you can get one of those things that are like a thing cylindrical camera attached to a small monitor with a bendy straw you could look right into it.

I was able to see the obstruction in the motor by simply removing the spark plug. I jury rigged a wine hose connected it to my shop vac and sucked out the offending stone. Not sure maybe my daughter thought the engine needed it. lol Better check the valves to and make sure they're ok with no broken retainers that would cause a valve to drop/ bend.