MX-3.com

92 mx3 1.8L

Apparently this piece


that goes here


was cracked, and the previous owner tried to RTV and gorilla glue the crap out of it. I cleaned it up, and currently have it curing with 2 part epoxy/jb weld type stuff that's good for over 300* and over 1,000psi tensile strength, but not sure if that's going to work.

so are there any other cars that used this part, or any ideas where I can get this part ASAP??? I'm on my way to the junk yard to look around and see if I can find anything, but not sure if this part is specific to this car or not.

Thanks.

The fix you're making sounds promising and I hope it works because otherwise a salvage yard is probably almost the only place for a replacement. At least you can branch out from MX3 because all K series engines will have the part you need. Look for Mazda MX6, 626, Millenia with the K series engine. Also Ford Probe with the K series engine. Good salvage yard hunting.

Found a 93 ford probe with the 2.5L and a all metal filler neck.

How do you remove them from the motor??? I can't see any obvious bolts, and it almost looks like it's part of the motor.

Thanks.

scorpio_vette wrote:Found a 93 ford probe with the 2.5L and a all metal filler neck.

How do you remove them from the motor??? I can't see any obvious bolts, and it almost looks like it's part of the motor.

Thanks.

Think i figured it out. Gotta remove the timing cover and a bunch of parts right???

Found one in a 93 Ford Probe GT. Now I just gotta scrape the motor off of it.

Wow - you planning on a motor swap? That's alot of work for a water filler neck.
It might have been easier and cheaper to order just the filler neck from online discount mazda parts dealer:
- N3C115175 for the filler neck
- N32615174 for the o ring

davmac wrote:Wow - you planning on a motor swap? That's alot of work for a water filler neck.
It might have been easier and cheaper to order just the filler neck from online discount mazda parts dealer:
- N3C115175 for the filler neck
- N32615174 for the o ring

easier....YES
cheaper....no. i'm guessing you didn't see the other thread about my 2.5L below this one where I said that I got the whole engine and everything for FREE.

Always wondered about the 2 part epoxy/jb weld type stuff, but never gave it much credit.

Well i still don't. The filler neck started leaking shortly after getting up to temp. So I guess I'll be replacing that plastic one with the all metal one from the 2.5L probe engine I picked up.

IF I can figure out how to get to it. Right now I'm having a hard time just figuring out how to get the timing cover off the 2.5L. So not looking forward to doing it to the one on the car.

WOW.........got the filler neck off. that's alot of crap to remove to get the filler neck off. It was easy on the junkyard motor since I'm not worried about putting everything back together nicely. but I am worried about taking all that stuff off my motor. It'll be just my luck I won't be able to get all the timing parts lined up right again.

You can't miss if you line up the crank and cam gears and mark the belt with a paint marker. If you forgot to mark the belt before removing it then read the sticky at the top of this forum about getting your timing belt on correctly.

Last tip is to leave the top idler pulley off the motor when putting the belt back. Of course you also want the tensioner compressed and swung out of the way. With the tensioner out of the way and the top idler pulley removed there is enough slack to easily get everything lined up.

Finally 2 revolutions of the crank should find the marks on the crank and cam pulleys lined up again with the marks on the engine. Don't expect the marks you put on your belt to line up again - they won't.

going to start taking apart my car now to replace that neck.

Wish me luck. book time to replace a water pump on this car is 4.6hours.
I'm not doing a water pump, but i do have to take off a few extra pieces to get the rear cover off to get to the filler. Let's call it an even 5hours.

Let's see how long it takes me. Estimated start time by the time I get out there 11:30am.

stopped the clock at 1:45 and went to eat lunch. got everything off but can't get the crank pulley bolt out. wish I still had my old impact (burglary. lost roughly $30,000 worth of tools). I can do more damage by hand then this impact does.

So I think i'm gonna eat lunch and watch a few minute of netflix while I ponder how to remove the crank bolt.

Without impact wrench the best trick is to use the starter.
1. Put socket and long extension on crank bolt
2. Arrange extension bar so it is resting on the ground or against lower control arm (suspension). Basically so it can't move when the starter tries to spin the crank pulley clockwise.
3. Disconnect fuel pump or pull the distributor cap or something to keep the car from starting
4. Blip the starter once or twice and you should find the crank pulley bolt is loose enough to remove rest by hand.

You can also remove the starter or inspection plate underneath to jam a chisel or screwdriver in the flywheel while you yank on a long breaker bar. Starter trick is faster.

davmac wrote:Without impact wrench the best trick is to use the starter.
1. Put socket and long extension on crank bolt
2. Arrange extension bar so it is resting on the ground or against lower control arm (suspension). Basically so it can't move when the starter tries to spin the crank pulley clockwise.
3. Disconnect fuel pump or pull the distributor cap or something to keep the car from starting
4. Blip the starter once or twice and you should find the crank pulley bolt is loose enough to remove rest by hand.

You can also remove the starter or inspection plate underneath to jam a chisel or screwdriver in the flywheel while you yank on a long breaker bar. Starter trick is faster.

that worked great. thanks for the tip.

Now.........anybody want to buy this car. I've bout had it with this thing.

Hey, i know this is a old thread but im researching ways to loosen the crank shaft pulley bolt because i want to change timing belt, pullys waterpump and so on, but that bolt tightened to 167Nm and beeing on there for ever, gives me bad feelings

Using the starter sounds easy, but wont it hurt the starter or something else?
And will the starter be able to loosen the bolt for sure?

Extensionbar should be on the ground to the front of the car right?

After/if i get the bolt off, does the pulley come off easy or can it be a PITA to get off also?