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So im running a 93 mx-3 with a curved neck KLZE and manual transmission, Im using the K8 ECU and JE50. It's running ok, but not great.

I found a guy parting out a 94 mx-6 here in town, its a 2.5L but it has an automatic transmission. My question is can I buy his ECU and VAF and hook them up to my car with the intentions of making the motor run better?

Pritchett wrote:So im running a 93 mx-3 with a curved neck KLZE and manual transmission, Im using the K8 ECU and JE50. It's running ok, but not great.

No kidding, you're running a setup for a 1.8 with a 2.5L motor in there, it will never run good with that setup

Pritchett wrote: I found a guy parting out a 94 mx-6 here in town, its a 2.5L but it has an automatic transmission. My question is can I buy his ECU and VAF and hook them up to my car with the intentions of making the motor run better?

Yes, it doesn't matter if it's for an automatic or not. it really doesn't matter if it's a KLZE or KLDE, it's still a 2.5, the only real different is the VRIS for the intake, which would be wrong no matter which way. A KL02 VAF and a KLDE ECU for the most part runs as good as a KLZE ECU with the JE50 VAF

Well I installed the kl-55 and kl02 and it runs alot smoother now, but I noticed the power was flat and felt less then when I had the k801 installed. Upon inspection under the hood I've noticed that the vris no longer works. Is this a common problem? Cause it actually had more power with the 1.8L setup. I still don't have any O2 sensors installed but that won't affect the operation of the vris. Kinda sucks cause I just blew 130 bucks on that ecu and vaf

Nd4SpdSe wrote: Yes, it doesn't matter if it's for an automatic or not. it really doesn't matter if it's a KLZE or KLDE, it's still a 2.5, the only real different is the VRIS for the intake, which would be wrong no matter which way. A KL02 VAF and a KLDE ECU for the most part runs as good as a KLZE ECU with the JE50 VAF

?

I found the K8 setup runs like s--- compared to the DE setup. It would cold drown itself on the K8 setup, but feel a bit better under power. The DE setup just runs better overall. Better milage on the DE setup, and it runs within its map, wheras I'm pretty sure the K8 setup just extrapolates stuff/runs in limp mode.



I've found that mixing ATX and MTX stuff sometimes causes the VRIS not to work.

Don't mistake jumps in the powerband as more power. The smooth powerband may feel less fun, but I betcha its actually faster.

Hmmm, well I think it's close, I can't say with 100% certainty that the K8 setup made more power, it certainly wasn't as smooth but felt more responsive. Maybe I can alter my ignition timing to correct this, cause it had to be between 11-12 BTDC or it was very soggy power wise. Maybe this ecu will favor a more advanced setting, then again it could be the fact that the vris don't work.

This experience has shown me a PNP megasquirt, tuned on a dyno would be pretty fantasic, and may have fueled my desire to do so in the future. If I can source a mtx ecu for cheap I'd be interested in trying that first.

My bad....so I'm thinking I'm having the same problem as another member here, one of my vris do work, it's the one closest to my passenger side, which I believe is the blue connector. On my ecu it's written that its a 94 626 atx ecu...funny cause the other member said his was from a 626 as well. Well I use the term work very loosely, cause by work I mean it opens upon starting and closes upon shutdown. The other vris remains dormant, rev'ing the engine does nothing. Switch the connectors and it produces the same result with the other vris. Question now is which vris would be best stuck open or should I disconnect the vris so both are closed?