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Hey guy's just looking for your suggestion's/advice/opinion's here!

So a co-worker has a 1996 mx-6 M edition with 134,xxx km's on it. It's deep purple in color, cloth interior, and the 2.5L of course. Body has numerous dents from hail damage, nothing very major but would require body work and paint to have it in showroom condition.

The major concern is the engine doesn't run according to him, he says he was at a red light idling and the engine just died, no noise...just kaput. His mechanic told him it was a spun bearing, or so he says. When I inspected the engine today, I noticed the timing belt cover and timing belt had been either partially removed or the timing belt had jumped its timing and come loose. The timing belt also had a small tear about a cm long and went about a 1/4 inch+ into the center of the belt. He was told by the mechanic that it was gonna cost him 1500 to fix so he gave up on it. When I didnt have any tools or know how, I paid a shop 1200+ to fix my timing belt, which would put him in the same ball park. I'm thinking that this might only need a new belt and presto...low km mx-6, or a new engine...either way.

The 2.5L thats in it looks fabulous under the oil cap, didnt have any discoloration of the metal as far as I could tell...So its most likely a very clean motor, worthy of a rebuild if need be.

So what do you guys think, ask me some questions that pop into your head if you care enough to respond.

P.S- you might say that this is a MX-6 forum topic, but truth is these are basically the same as our cars and I trust the community here more then the people I dont know over at mx-6.com or any related sites. Thanks for reading

I'm an idiot....he wants $1000 cdn for the car

Give him 600 and take the risk.

How are the seats? I assume there the tan leather with the M logo?

I think they'll be more problems you'll discover after you buy it. Paying $1200 for a timing belt change is a rip off, should of did an engine swap. I'd say don't buy it. Putting money into the engine, body work and paint, just buy a $2000 Mx6 that doesn't need anything right away.

Spun bearing does not cause the engine to stop running. And it would be very difficult to dagnose a spun bearing without opening the bottom end. So my first instinct is that you're being lied to on at least one count.

Timing belt skipping would and a decent mechanic would see that immediately and tell you so.

My guess it that timing belt came off and that would explain engine dying all of sudden.

You assume wrong, They are cloth as I stated first. He started at 1500...I've worked him down to 1000 so far. I might be able to flash some cash and get another hundred or 2 off but its unlikely.

The $1200 was a rip off. They charged me 450-500 for the timing belt kit, the rest was labor. That was many moons ago when I had 0 tools and needed it done asap.

wytbishop wrote:Spun bearing does not cause the engine to stop running. And it would be very difficult to dagnose a spun bearing without opening the bottom end. So my first instinct is that you're being lied to on at least one count.

Timing belt skipping would and a decent mechanic would see that immediately and tell you so.

Exactly...it would just make a bad crunchy/grindy noise, my first klze spun a bearing. I dont think he actually knows whats wrong...his mechanic said spun bearing, maybe to soak him for the repair bill? cause he(owner) clearly doesnt know anything about cars, or the KL's to more precise. Or maybe he made it up in his head...who knows! I think it was the timing belt too...cause thats the first thing the mechanic started opening up before the guy decided he didnt want to foot the bill. 134,000km isn't a long life span for the belt as mine lasted 245,000km (K8) but mazda does recommend a belt change at 90,000km so it isn't improbable either.

sounds to me like the tensioner failed which caused the belt to get caught in something and rip. theres no way to tell for sure until you get in there and look at it though. any weird noises while cranking? have you checked compression? if it is in fact just a timing belt its a decent deal. but the chance that it is a major problem makes the deal less appetizing. do whatever tests you can, ie compression/spark/fuel. also look at the belt while someone cranks the engine. if the tensioner failed you should see the belt skipping.

I agree. It's a bit early for the the belt to go, but it's easy to imagine the tensioner biting the big one and allowing the belt to skip.

My guess is that the "spun bearing" scenario is totally made up so that they would have something to book an additional 4 hours to so they could "rule it out".

FWIW I could do the timing belt in my driveway with nothing but hand tools in 3 hours. Offer him $800, fix the timing belt and I'd bet a dollar that it runs another 100,000km.

With out having the car run we have no clue about this "spun bearing" best thing you could do is dump the oil and see if its full of metal...

I have a feeling if buddy doesn't know a whole lot about cars then he's gotten lines of communications crossed... I see a lot of people who blame shops for doing shotty work when its just simple a simple miss communication...

My rule of thumb is this.. If the car runs drives, can pass emissions and over all is safe to drive its worth at least 1K no matter what it is... If its broken it wont run I wont pay over 500 for it... all its worth at that point is scrap value...

mikeinaus wrote:sounds to me like the tensioner failed which caused the belt to get caught in something and rip. theres no way to tell for sure until you get in there and look at it though. any weird noises while cranking? have you checked compression? if it is in fact just a timing belt its a decent deal. but the chance that it is a major problem makes the deal less appetizing. do whatever tests you can, ie compression/spark/fuel. also look at the belt while someone cranks the engine. if the tensioner failed you should see the belt skipping.

It doesnt have a battery and I was only there for a short period during a lunch break. I agree, a quality belt I can get for $100 and I have a good tensioner from my dud KLZE. The belt was partially removed or fully removed and then partially reinstalled, or the slack I saw was from a failed tensioner prehaps? who knows...I should talk to his mechanic and get the low down on it.

wytbishop wrote:I agree. It's a bit early for the the belt to go, but it's easy to imagine the tensioner biting the big one and allowing the belt to skip.

My guess is that the "spun bearing" scenario is totally made up so that they would have something to book an additional 4 hours to so they could "rule it out".

FWIW I could do the timing belt in my driveway with nothing but hand tools in 3 hours. Offer him $800, fix the timing belt and I'd bet a dollar that it runs another 100,000km.

Im inclined to agree with you, however I dont know how he drove it or maintained it, however like I said the inside of the oil cap looks good. Ya, I can bang off the timing belt 3-4 hours assuming everything is good.

crazycanadian wrote:With out having the car run we have no clue about this "spun bearing" best thing you could do is dump the oil and see if its full of metal...

I have a feeling if buddy doesn't know a whole lot about cars then he's gotten lines of communications crossed... I see a lot of people who blame shops for doing shotty work when its just simple a simple miss communication...

My rule of thumb is this.. If the car runs drives, can pass emissions and over all is safe to drive its worth at least 1K no matter what it is... If its broken it wont run I wont pay over 500 for it... all its worth at that point is scrap value...

Checking the oil would be a place to start as would cutting open the oil filter. However I dont think he's gonna want me to do that, plus the car isnt in a suitable location to conduct these tests, all the tires are flat(it sat for a few years) and its sitting on crushed stone between the mechanics shed and property line fence.

Thanks for all the suggestions and opinions guys, great idea's and advice so far

My 200k KLDE is still running great. 134k is almost new, I'd buy it. What about the rest of the car, breaks, suspension, I suspect the front breaks are new and the back are still good as well. Exhaust should last to at least 160-180k. Good luck.

Daninski wrote:My 200k KLDE is still running great. 134k is almost new, I'd buy it. What about the rest of the car, breaks, suspension, I suspect the front breaks are new and the back are still good as well. Exhaust should last to at least 160-180k. Good luck.

ya 134k is the lowest km motor/car I've found in alberta and its local to boot. TBH I didnt have long to look at it, and totally forgot about the suspension. Exhaust did look good when I looked underneath the car however, and appears to be 0 rust as well.

I just dont know if I want to take it on...I have a 99 silverado that needs work, my klze mx-3 that I havent even put an air filter on yet( I know... I know) needs some work too. I just think 134K is hard to come by.

if its been sitting that long your probably looking at new wheel bearings and possibly calipers aswell. could also be rust buildup as well as dryrot in the mounts/bushings. give the car as best of an inspection before you buy it if you decide to go that route...