rod knock or lifters? (SOLVED)

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Edgar7654
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rod knock or lifters? (SOLVED)

Post by Edgar7654 »

ok i have a problem with my car i have the bp engine in which i bought used with 93k on it however i have this noise that sounds like 20 little guys r beatting on my engine and each one has 2 hammers.... is this rod knock or could my oil pick up be blocked by carbon and rust there for the oil isnt picking up well enough to the lifters? it goes away at 2k it sounds normal and comes back at 1000rmp or 3000 rpm and up i will be changing the rod bearing here soon i just want some input on what you guys think it may be thank you and god bless you

also will be writing a engine swap for 91 bp obdi to 95 obd2 soon i have no cell codes the only problem is i got the wrong engine.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRg9t_Lk6_A



the oil pick up was full of sludge dropped the oil pan and cleaned 8-9 oz of sludge and then it was good to go
Last edited by Edgar7654 on November 19th, 2011, 3:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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mitmaks
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by mitmaks »

maybe you can post a vid or it running. Rod knock is different from valve ticking.
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Dark_Rider2k3
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Dark_Rider2k3 »

Hard to tell but sounds like litter tick. Did you just put the engine in?
Edgar7654
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Edgar7654 »

yes i just put the engine in (teenager) make stupid decisions like have sex insted of putting oil on my car and blow it up while racing a mustang with my oil pressure low thinking ill put oil after the next exit.... now i called the machine shop and a crank kit is $140 comes with crank and main bearings and rod bearings

or should i get the crank re-grounded and buy the bearings the reason i ask is the crank for my this car BP engine is forged and idk if the one from the crank kit is cast or forged.....
Dark_Rider2k3
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Dark_Rider2k3 »

Edgar7654 wrote:yes i just put the engine in (teenager) make stupid decisions like have sex insted of putting oil on my car and blow it up while racing a mustang with my oil pressure low thinking ill put oil after the next exit.... now i called the machine shop and a crank kit is $140 comes with crank and main bearings and rod bearings

or should i get the crank re-grounded and buy the bearings the reason i ask is the crank for my this car BP engine is forged and idk if the one from the crank kit is cast or forged.....
so you pretty much didn't have enough oil in it? ouch...
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Ryan
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Ryan »

That crank kit seems very reasonable. My regrinds cost $120, plus bearings on top.
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Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Edgar7654
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Edgar7654 »

yea will regrinding it be just as reliable as new? cuz the bp has a forged crank and idk what the crank kit is made of im planning on boosting soon im only missing the manifold and the oil lines i plan on running 8 or 10 psi also ryan thank you for convincing me to do a swap insted of keeping my blown b6 its deffinatly faster than the b6 even with rod knock... besides my other engine was oil starved there could be other problems in the future this one at least has 93k even with rod knock
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Ryan
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Ryan »

Once you pull it apart you'll know what happened.

A reground crank is meh. The new surface finishes and clearances will be better than whatever you had before you spun it, so its still an upgrade, but not as good as stock.

Ask the company what their cranks are made of (steel grade if they'll tell you, forged or cast), and what sort of heat treatment & surface treatments they've done.

carburized, nitrided, polished x times, blah blah blah, whatever they can sell.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Edgar7654
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Edgar7654 »

i think its the lifters i took the engine out put it on a stand and notice my fly wheel bolst were lose like really loose and it moved up and down since i used bolt tight green which makes sense why it sounds like death... now the rods r tight and compared to what i seen before when rod knock occurs there is no play i cant move them at all also my oil pick up was full of mud like sludge and i pulled 8.3 oz of sludge from the bottom of the pan which could be why the lifters werent getting enough oil... how do i know if i have rod knock now that the engine is out on a stand....
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Ryan
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by Ryan »

Well when diagnosing s---, its impossible to diagnose user error. I suggest issues that could naturally go wrong, not that you forgot to tighten your flywheel bolts... how could anyone possibly predict that, aside from you.

Clean it out, tighten it up, check your bearings anyway (take off the caps and bearings and inspect for damage, either from spinning or starvation from the plugged pickup).


You can't miss a spun bearing.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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mitmaks
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Re: rod knock or lifters?

Post by mitmaks »

On our Subaru bearings were so bad, piston was knocking against head. Fortunately for me it didn't bend valves but I had to pay for new shortblock $1700
Magnum s/s lines, strut bars, carbon fiber bezel, indiglow gauge, Sony Xplod, inverted c/f hood, SRD lower tie bar '93 GS SE '95 Cobra SVT #2722 '68 Charger R/T 440
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