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Hopefully someone on here has had a similar issue. I recently completed my kl-de engine swap and am currently trying to work out the bugs. I don't know anyone with an OBD1 scanner so I did the jumper scan. After counting the blinks I came up with what I think are 4 or 5 different codes. They are (if I read the blinks right) 6 (speed sensor), 3 (cylinder identification sensor), 4 (crank position sensor #1), and either an 11, 1, or 2 (2 longer blinks with minimal pause between) which I am not sure. The ecu is out of a 93 gst probe (unknown model number). I have done some testing according to the haynes manual and can't track down my problems. Has anyone had similar issues? I really don't have the extra cash to just buy and try things so any help would be great. Thanks

You're reading the codes wrong.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=34787

The only one I think I'm reading wrong is the 11 or whatever that is. The others I am pretty sure are correct.

Go back and make sure your plugs are fully inserted and that every thing is plugged back in (no extra plugs left). Then like Ryan says make sure your understanding the blink codes as well. So what issues are you having with your engine at this time?

I have checked the plugs and from what I can tell everything is plugged in and good to go. Like I said in my previous statement, I am pretty sure all the codes are correct except the one I questioned. As for what the motor is doing, I have another post out there about that. The title is klde swap...speedo and rpm issues. As of now the only thing I can think of is either my ecu is junk or the distributor is. The only problem is I don't know how to verify this without plugging in a different part.

I'm sorry to agree with others that you're reading the codes wrong. It's not only that you're offering a code 11 which does not exist, but the codes are so unrelated that it would be hard to pinpoint any cause. Potentially start over:
Reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and applying the brake for 10 seconds.

Then start the car and see what happens. Remember 4 second pause between codes and the single digit codes are strictly fast flashes followed by the long 4 second pause before the next code comes at you. The next code if a 2 digit code wlll shart with some number of longer flashes and then paired (after about 1.5 second pause) with a series of fast flashes.

Congratulations on you're engine swap. Being this close to complete it's easy to get discouraged by the little problems before everything is just how you'd like it. Whenever you seem to run out of patience, if possible, take a break. Just don't give up.

Well I went out to try and read the light blinks again and I'm pretty sure I smoked the ecu. I mistakenly jumped the B+ instead of the TEN. Now the car doesn't start and no engine light. I think I just shorted out the ecu. Time to start looking for a new one I guess.

False alarm it turned out to be the 30A fuel injection fuse under the hood. I posted a short video on youtube showing the engine light blinks so please take a look and throw me some input. I'm pretty sure I have a couple correct but the others may be wrong. Let me know what you think. Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTX1Kgpuf4U

If you didn't stop prematurely,

34 - idle air control, white plug under TB
26 - Purge canister solenoid, located on the firewall, the only solenoid mounted there, it was on a little rubber isolator thing
3 - G signal, one of the distributor hall effect sensors.

Thanks Ryan for the feedback. I went out and double checked and they repeat themselves after those 3 codes. Time to start the hunt for the problem. Also thanks for teaching me how to read the blinks.

Ok I was able to track down the 26 and 3 codes but I'm not sure how to track the idle air control valve. Is there a way of testing these or do they just fail? I'd hate to buy a new one at $400 if that isn't in fact the problem. Thanks

The IAC is a strange beast.

Try unplugging it and plugging it back in, and if that doesn't work, just try clearing the code (remove neg battery terminal and hold down brake for 30s).

If it still persists... everyone has spare K8 TB's, someone will ship it to you for next to free.

Don't buy a new unit, thats a waste of money.

So I did a little testing today and found the IAC valve is ohm testing out where the haynes manual states (around 11.3 ohms), but it is still throwing the 34 code even after clearing the code. Does this mean the thing is toast? I tore it apart and everything looked pretty good on the inside (not all grimmy or gunked up). Also after some more driving my 03 code returned along with my engine still running at high rpms. My somewhat inexperienced thought....bad distributor? Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

Not to be a pain but has anyone else had issues with their IAC valve and distributor after a swap? I've done all the testing I can do and am still getting the 34 and 03 codes. Does this mean a new IAC and distributor is needed?

Do you get the proper voltages from the harness? 12v on one pin, continuity to ground on the other.

Code 3 is G signal, I'm surprised it runs with this code. This is the disty 6 tooth hall effect sensor.