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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRW ... re=related

This guy is a scientist..

Well, he sure ain't no painter...

Almost any paint will look great, if you take that much time and work on the paint job. But a year later, that paint job will look like crap, if it even lasts that long.

Well in depends on what YOU WILL DO in that much time.Or if you know what you must do..(Not you personal )
Why do you say that it will no last?
Btw with his paint way the cost is very lower than using a normal car paint..And you don't need an air gun..
The technic that he is using in the end about the orange peel off is very often common here..

You should not be using this type of paint on your car, it will not last. You need to use urethane based paint and you do need to paint it. You're wasting too much time with roller when you can have better results with spray gun. You do not need super expensive gun either. A $50 from Harbor freight is a decent gun if you plan on spraying your car at home.

I think that the the key is to use a rustoleum clear coat in the end.Or even better a quality clear coat based paint..Then you will not have problem with time as it will last for long..

DeadMaker wrote: Why do you say that it will no last?
Btw with his paint way the cost is very lower than using a normal car paint..And you don't need an air gun..
The technic that he is using in the end about the orange peel off is very often common here..

I've been there, in the past (not painting cars, but signs).
Automotive paint is formulated to provide a much better adhesion to metal (or, to be more specific, automotive primer is), and much better resistance to the environment. Both automotive bases paints and clear coats have UV protectants, that greatly delay color fade, when exposed to sunlight.
Using a paint gun allows you to lay much thinner coats of paint, which in time makes the painted surface tougher.
All that makes automotive paint last a lot longer than any other kind of paint, on a car, so, if I'm gonna spend 5 days of my life painting my car, I want to make sure I'm not gonna have to do it all over again, just for saving a few bucks.

About the technique he used at the end, it's the same technique used by painters anywhere, with the exception that most painters would use 1500, or even 2000 grit, and better polishing compounds.

So as i understand you have worked and you have an experience on car paintings.Good.
Let me ask you something.Before a few days i bought gs lips.They were in white colour,i sanded them and paint them with black primer.
Everything is ok.tThe primer seated well but the problem is that you can leave very easy a scratch with your nail in the surface.Without even pushing your finger on it.It is very sensitive..
Why is that?Cause there is no hardener?
I used this primer http://www.motipdupli.de/index.php?id=ipg_1223&L=2

No. I have experience painting signs, not cars. That's why I can tell you that Rust oleum type paint doesn't last. Mitmaks is the car painter. He's the guy you have to listen to.
Either way, I'm pretty sure he's gonna tell you rattle can primers and paints are garbage, but wait for him to pitch in anyway, just to be sure.

The problem with body related stuff for guys like us is that we are trying to balance cost, quality and our own lack of understanding and experience.

I have been experimenting with body work for a couple of years now. I was able to get a decent looking finish on my bumper with spray can enamel but as stated, it didn't last. I think it would have lasted better if I had applied more coats of paint and then several more coats of clear but then it's not really a cheap paint job anymore when the paint is $30 a can, clear is $18 a can...etc.

I don't have $1000, or even $500 to drop on a paint job let alone the $2000 it would take to get a good quality job done including the prep. I think that it is absolutely worthwhile to try things like this. No, you will not wind up with a professional quality paint job using a roller, but you will learn a lot about prep, sanding, finish etc. and if you have the time to spare why the hell not. If you can make your car look good enough that you're not embarassed to be seen in it for $100 in your spare time it's worth it to me.

Trust me i have done too many paint experiments in my car..The results was not what i was expected but you know something?I learned a lot of all these things and took some exprerience..
Of course i am not and i will never be a professional painter but at least i can do a decent job a and keeping 1000 bucks for me..Which btw i don't have

I've painted guitars with pro results from rattle cans. It's not rocket science, it's understanding how to prep, and then sand/buff paint. Using a roller like the guy in the vid isn't a fantastic idea... nor is using enamel paint. But, it's doable.

DeadMaker wrote:So as i understand you have worked and you have an experience on car paintings.Good.
Let me ask you something.Before a few days i bought gs lips.They were in white colour,i sanded them and paint them with black primer.
Everything is ok.tThe primer seated well but the problem is that you can leave very easy a scratch with your nail in the surface.Without even pushing your finger on it.It is very sensitive..
Why is that?Cause there is no hardener?
I used this primer http://www.motipdupli.de/index.php?id=ipg_1223&L=2

This is crap primer and I probably wouldn't even use it on my lawnmower. What you want is 2K (2 part primer or sealer) Once dries it's resistant to moisture and most chemicals.

wytbishop wrote:The problem with body related stuff for guys like us is that we are trying to balance cost, quality and our own lack of understanding and experience.

I have been experimenting with body work for a couple of years now. I was able to get a decent looking finish on my bumper with spray can enamel but as stated, it didn't last. I think it would have lasted better if I had applied more coats of paint and then several more coats of clear but then it's not really a cheap paint job anymore when the paint is $30 a can, clear is $18 a can...etc.

I don't have $1000, or even $500 to drop on a paint job let alone the $2000 it would take to get a good quality job done including the prep. I think that it is absolutely worthwhile to try things like this. No, you will not wind up with a professional quality paint job using a roller, but you will learn a lot about prep, sanding, finish etc. and if you have the time to spare why the hell not. If you can make your car look good enough that you're not embarassed to be seen in it for $100 in your spare time it's worth it to me.

You can pick up automotive paint for $30 a pint and $40 quart for clear. You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars on auto paint for your daily driver. Most people won't be able to tell difference between cheaper paint and higher end paint. What you do get for your extra money is better color match (if you're doing one or two panels on a car) and better gloss retention on higher end clear. Of course better clears polish easier, etc

mitmaks wrote:

DeadMaker wrote:So as i understand you have worked and you have an experience on car paintings.Good.
Let me ask you something.Before a few days i bought gs lips.They were in white colour,i sanded them and paint them with black primer.
Everything is ok.tThe primer seated well but the problem is that you can leave very easy a scratch with your nail in the surface.Without even pushing your finger on it.It is very sensitive..
Why is that?Cause there is no hardener?
I used this primer http://www.motipdupli.de/index.php?id=ipg_1223&L=2

This is crap primer and I probably wouldn't even use it on my lawnmower. What you want is 2K (2 part primer or sealer) Once dries it's resistant to moisture and most chemicals.

I have used 2k clear coat spray in painted surfaces but after two or three or ten days or one month it doesn't getting very hard.You can make VERY EASY a scratch with your nail on it.Even metals or plastic surfaces..
Why is that?The colour is acrylic.
This is the clear coat spray i used
http://www.hbbody.com/
It is the AUTOCLEAR 496 (2:1)HS CLEAR COAT in spray

DeadMaker wrote:

mitmaks wrote:

DeadMaker wrote:So as i understand you have worked and you have an experience on car paintings.Good.
Let me ask you something.Before a few days i bought gs lips.They were in white colour,i sanded them and paint them with black primer.
Everything is ok.tThe primer seated well but the problem is that you can leave very easy a scratch with your nail in the surface.Without even pushing your finger on it.It is very sensitive..
Why is that?Cause there is no hardener?
I used this primer http://www.motipdupli.de/index.php?id=ipg_1223&L=2

This is crap primer and I probably wouldn't even use it on my lawnmower. What you want is 2K (2 part primer or sealer) Once dries it's resistant to moisture and most chemicals.

I have used 2k clear coat spray in painted surfaces but after two or three or ten days or one month it doesn't getting very hard.You can make VERY EASY a scratch with your nail on it.Even metals or plastic surfaces..
Why is that?The colour is acrylic.
This is the clear coat spray i used
http://www.hbbody.com/
It is the AUTOCLEAR 496 (2:1)HS CLEAR COAT in spray

Did you follow instructions? Any clear must be mixed with activator according to data sheet. Did you use right activator and right amount of it? Clear coat will not dry without activator.