MX-3.com

Please help, I can not find a starting interlock (safety) switch for the clutch anywhere Ebay, Rock auto, or Orielly, Autozone, 1A Auto, advance auto using search terms switch, interlock, safety swiitch, ignition. The I think both the MX-6 and MX-3 at the salvage are automatics.

As in, the switch that goes on the pedal?

Just post a WTB, more than one of us has a parts car.

Yes, the one on the clutch pedal arm of the two located there. The other one is the brake switch.

I can not post in WTB or FS/FT as per the how to post rules one must have 30 posts minimum to do that.

what about hard wiring it and making sure the car is in neutral before cranking?

I thought new members could post a WTB, but not a FS? I believe the purpose of the whole thing was to stop people from coming here just to sell merchandise.


Either way, yes, there are two switches on the clutch pedal, the one is for cruise control cut and idle control, and the other is the starter interlock. On top of that, there is the brake switch for cruise control and the brake lights

I do not have cruise. Have not looked at the schematic yet to see if that idle control circuit is routed to a clutch switch. I have never had a vehicle where idle control was routed through a switch on the clutch.

About the rigging suggested:
I am not looking to rig anything. I want it fixed properly. These types of workarounds are sometimes dangerous eventual fire hazard. This would allow the car to start in gear. I am not the only one who drives the car. I will not do that to my wife.

Playing with the clutch at near fully depressed position will get the car started. But if you just keep the clutch pedal still at the floor and try the ignition key switch it will not start about 85% of the time.

Until I am sure via a ohm check of the offending switch I am not willing to offer to buy a switch. Let's not put the cart before the horse. I just will not do shotgunning. Can not afford it with four teenagers. My wife just had two back surgeries in 2 years and my son had one last week for screw removal from his 1st back fusion earlier this year from a wreck of someone else's fault and he needs shoulder surgery also. My wife also needs screw removal for loose screws they say may have been caused when she slipped and fell badly hitting the tile floor and jarred her 2nd fusion loose on some water spilled by my 14 yr old daughter.

Well, I'm not lying to you. The ECM uses the clutch position to determine which idle to use. (low, high, or higher)

I'm sure you could score the switch on here for around $20 from someone with a parts car.

After driving all winter with the starter drop out problem I have decided the problem I am having after installing a start switch/relay to bypass the one in the ign switch that the hold circuit in the starter solenoid is intermittently open (closed until heated by some use) below 20F the starter stays engaged much longer but above 20F it only does for a fraction of a second very consistently causing a minimum of 2 attempts to get the engine started. Just need a good used/ new solenoid or rebuilt starter solenoid assy. Note the factory manual testing for the solenoid hold circuit passed on bench but likely will not under load at the parts store. Its my daily driver so no time in good weather for testing theory yet. I did try a salvage solenoid but same exact problem. Likely the design change on the starter and solenoid I saw on slightly newer 626 and protege 1.6L and others is a factor here.

Really like this car even with the problems.