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i just bought solo_ryders car yesterday and i brought it in for emissions testing today. its lowered so much they could only do a idle test, but it failed on the hydrocarbons. maximum allowable is 107 and i scored a 192. carbon monoxide was at 0.53 and maximum allowable is 0.81.

the car/motor is in awesome condition, theres no cel codes. the only thing i can think of would be the exhaust which is a high flow 2.5" setup with a small magnaflow cat. theres also a tiny exhaust leak before the muffler. does anyone have any suggestions on what i should try to make this car pass? i have a 2.25" catback from my old car i can try but it needs quite a bit of modification to fit. the retards who welded it up made it extremely hard to modify and to make it fit on the headers would require cutting/clamping it in 2 different places.

i assume your getting it tested under Hot Rod status right?
Ok here's a trick I used. The test calls for RPM to be between 2250 and 2700rpm. I found the hydrocarbons drop off the lower the rpm is so we tested my car at 2300 (with the PCV vale unplugged ). Car passed. Seafoam the car first by removing and pouring the seafoam in through the PVC hose. My engine is running much better now. Hope this helps.

High HC are a result of too much unburned fuel.

DIAGNOSING FAILED HC (hydrocarbons)
Inspect for any cracked, loose, broken vacuum fittings or vacuum leaks
Inspect ignition system (wires, rotor, cap, etc.) for obvious wear
Inspect ignition timing and base engine settings including idle and valve adjustment

Inspect ECM for codes and correct data

Inspect ignition system primary and secondary kV within specification?

Inspect fuel system pressure, blockage or leaks (carb or injectors), proper operation

Inspect engine manifold vacuum
Vacuum should be between 16-20in. Hg at idle and steady or within manufacturer's specifications

Inspect engine mechanical
Perform compression test (cranking and running)

Inspect Catalytic Converter

Read more: How to Diagnose a Failed Emission Test | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5235160_diagnos ... z1J4sSJMU2

I recall reading through Fowljesse's worklog he had issues until he went to a larger cat. Since you mentioned a small cat well....

Aftermarket cats don't usually last too long, as far as I've been told, but my Magnaflow did 2 e-tests (1 every 2 years) no problem, because manufacturers only use the minimum amount of platinum in them since it's a costly metal; it was said Magnaflow was one of them. Maybe I got an older one which worked better, no clue, but it's said that they're only good for a year...

Daninski wrote:i assume your getting it tested under Hot Rod status right?
Ok here's a trick I used. The test calls for RPM to be between 2250 and 2700rpm. I found the hydrocarbons drop off the lower the rpm is so we tested my car at 2300 (with the PCV vale unplugged ). Car passed. Seafoam the car first by removing and pouring the seafoam in through the PVC hose. My engine is running much better now. Hope this helps.

they dont have hot rod status in bc. i asked about it but the guy looked at me like i was retarded. they just gave it a standard 2.5l idle test. i grabbed an oem exhaust to throw on my old car for when i sell it. since the wrecker cut off the cat and the pipe is quite short im gonna try using my old(less then 1 year) magnaflow cat (which passed my k8 last august) with a reducer and the oem exhaust. im hoping the smaller piping will make the fuel mixture a bit better, also my cat is slightly bigger then jordans so it may do the trick. ill swap over my o2s as i think the ones on the car are quite old and might be messing up the mixture. ill also change the oil/filter tomorrow, but i dont think ill need seafoam as the motor looks quite clean, plus napa is closed on sundays and im way too busy during the week to deal with trying to find it.

when you say pcv unplugged i assume you mean with the hoses capped so there isnt a vacuum leak?

is there any other tricks anyone knows of? jordan was saying something about running a mixture of kerosene in the gas tank?

Drill a bunch of small holes right after the muffler

mikeinaus wrote:is there any other tricks anyone knows of? jordan was saying something about running a mixture of kerosene in the gas tank?

Coleman camping fuel, 1 gallon for half tank I think it was.

I would look into a spray kit, GM has an exhaust fluid (yes I did just say that) thats supposedly designed to lower emissions on their new diesels, Might be usefull for all you folks that still have to pass emissions. I believe its aimed at Nitrogen but I could be wrong and it might help you out or at least give you some ideas.

Me Im going ahead with my plans for a remote exhaust cut-out on a MSD window switch

Nd4SpdSe wrote:

mikeinaus wrote:is there any other tricks anyone knows of? jordan was saying something about running a mixture of kerosene in the gas tank?

Coleman camping fuel, 1 gallon for half tank I think it was.

are you for real?

Haha ya he's for real.

Seafoam you can get at can tire now and lordco but I have already seafoamed the car late last year so no real use getting that.

I think its related to 02, cat and maybe fuel issue. Maybe try running 89 octane.

anyone know if throwing my k8 intake manifold on and hooking up the egr would help with the test? would that make things worse?

Hooking up the EGR would work, but why bother....there are plenty of other ways to trick the emissions test...if you have an adjustable FPR, dial down the pressure just for the test...in other words, since you're failing it due to high ammounts of Hydrocarbons in the exhaust, then think of ways to lean out the air fuel mix just for the test(not too much though, as you dont want to blow the engine). In the early eighties, GM used a technique created specifically for decieving the emissions testing...they added a belt driven air pump which injected fresh air into the exhaust steam, thus tricking the emmisions testing equipment into thinking that there were less Hydrocarbon PPM....Way to go GM...now if they only put this kind of thought into building better vehicles....

muttpower wrote:Hooking up the EGR would work, but why bother....there are plenty of other ways to trick the emissions test...if you have an adjustable FPR, dial down the pressure just for the test...in other words, since you're failing it due to high ammounts of Hydrocarbons in the exhaust, then think of ways to lean out the air fuel mix just for the test(not too much though, as you dont want to blow the engine).

Installing an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is something I was considering as well. Dial it down to 20psi for the test and see how you do. The test center should be willing to do a pre-test to get an idea if your vehicle will pass without actually doing the "official test" and they should do that for free. Add 3-4 oz's of acetone to your cars fuel system as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Racing-A ... 2eb44b0bea

Make sure what ever AFPR you buy has a return line, some cheaper ones don't.

A couple of instructional vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LWsCbPYeWI

muttpower wrote: In the early eighties, GM used a technique created specifically for decieving the emissions testing...they added a belt driven air pump which injected fresh air into the exhaust steam, thus tricking the emmisions testing equipment into thinking that there were less Hydrocarbon PPM....Way to go GM...now if they only put this kind of thought into building better vehicles....

Actually the A.I.R. (Air Injection Reactor) system was introduce in 1966 way before the catalytic converter. It was often the first thing to get ripped off of a musclecar. Rare to see them now unless the car is supposed to be a perfect "factory correct" restoration.