I need to be faster

[Facekill88]

Okay this is my frist mazda. I been in gms for ever... Now that im older i got sick of gms, 3.1 can suck it. Now i have the 1995 1.6 (i think). Its a stick, and i cant get the power i want. I want to keep the engine, but dont want a turbor. My older brother just got a frod ranger, witha 4.0. This is where the i need to go faster comes from. Where can i get headers, air in take and all the other goodies. i hred the 1.6 mitia headers will work but im unsure and want to ask my new mx-3 family. The only thing i didnt know about mazda is, how muchyou can love it and it shows it back.

[carizle]

pretty sure miata headers wont work as the miata is rear wheel drive and the mx3 is front, so of coarse the engine is mounted conpletely different. as for power, not sure how much you can get out of it, but just be glad you have a later model car as the early rs only came with 88hp! 94 and up had the b6-me with 106....if you really want more speed you'd be better off swapping. look up bp-t swap. pretty common. thats a 1.8 turbo i think was found in the 323 gtx and gtr, but dont quote me on that...

[Ryan]

Sir, you have the shittiest engine that came in this car, and intake/exhaust only really opens up a motor, this motor has nothing to open up.

I don't know what you learned with your GM's, but with these cars and these motors, bolt on modifications do very little, as they're well designed to start with. Your Cavaqueer 2.2 only put down 115, whereas the engine you're running now is a 1.6 putting down 115 as well. Maybe the Cavvy had room for improvement, your current engine doesn't really, not with bolt ons.

You want to be faster? BP swap will make you smile a little when you romp on it, take about 2 seconds out of your 1/4 mile(from 18 to 16). BPT will make you fast, depending how well you do it. A stock setup will take a solid 4 seconds off(maybe down to 14, and lower if you build it).

The swap isn't hard, literally EVERYTHING bolts over, you don't need to weld, and you only HAVE to run ONE wire. It honestly does not get any easier. Plus, the engine is bulletproof so a JY motor can be dropped in if its compression is good and be expected to last as long as you need.


Read through this section: http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=24

And this one, for the appropriate threads: http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=46
A few selections for ya: http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=74195
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=69074

Honestly, read every title, ask yourself "does this apply to me", and if it does, read it.

[Daninski]

And for Gods sake proof read your posts before hitting the Submit button. Thanks

[Ryan]

Shesh Dan, I only missed one capital, and I realize I DO mix up my tenses a lot, but lay off, would ya? Don't be that crotchety old guy who never left the peanut gallery.

[Josh]

Just to add to it. search around for a Kia Sophia swap, you can get both engine and trans from a wrecker for under a couple of hundred bucks because they say KIA. about what you would spend on a header. motor is a MAZDA BP 1.8L and the trans is the same trans found in the 99 Protege's way better than the crappy F series found in the 1.6. both are direct swaps.

^If i were to do it all over again^

[Daninski]

Shesh Dan, I only missed one capital, and I realize I DO mix up my tenses a lot, but lay off, would ya? Don't be that crotchety old guy who never left the peanut gallery.

I wasn't talking about you prairie boy.

[4gotn]

as a b6de owner....i say stick with it....its not as shitty of a motor as they claim....
if you want bolt on power you can go to www.corksport.com and buy a header that will fit but anything else will require heavy mods. you can probably look on ebay and find a cold air intake but to be honest its not going to give you much more horsepower over stock because the vics system on the b6de sucks.

if you can find a miata head and swap you can find a decent intake manifold but keep in mind the mx3 had bigger valves, it also has the injectors on the head and not the manifold.

cams...well..even turbo cams are better than stock..but miata cams will fit if you can find some.

other than that you can nix the power steering and ac, but youll need to depower the rack: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

please also make note, the ecu WILL EVENTUALLY NEED TO BE CHANGED.... the ecu in the mx3 relies heavily on the vics, egr and idle air bypass systems to run correctly and will cause the engine run like complete s--- if you remove them...i know:cough:

if you keep an eye on the for sale forum im trying to build some itbs for b6, b8, bp and k series motors in my spare time...just a thought....

[Josh]

as a b6de owner....i say stick with it....its not as shitty of a motor as they claim....
if you want bolt on power you can go to http://www.corksport.com and buy a header that will fit but anything else will require heavy mods. you can probably look on ebay and find a cold air intake but to be honest its not going to give you much more horsepower over stock because the vics system on the b6de sucks.

WHAT, As a B6DE owner you should know that unless you have your B6DE Forcefully Induced its weak as hell and will always be.

Edit: "Weak" as in slang meaning; sucks not efficient. not as in brittle of fragile

if you can find a miata head and swap you can find a decent intake manifold but keep in mind the mx3 had bigger valves, it also has the injectors on the head and not the manifold.

You do know that the manifold bolt patterns are different. and a Miata head will NOT fit on a DE block without modifications.. The DE block has two extra oil runs in the block and head, NOT found in the Miata head and block, this creats a problem as the head WILL bolt up but half of the hole is exposed creating a big mess when you start the car. the block has to be threaded and tapped with a plug

I think you are confusing the B6 and B6T found in 323's with the DE. these are much closer to the miata block and head.

cams...well..even turbo cams are better than stock..but miata cams will fit if you can find some.

Not to Flame but have you done this swap? I was the first Known to do a Miata cam swap about 9 years ago. This is not Easy they are not a direct swap, sure they bolt in but the Miata head has the distributor on the intake cam where the DE has it on the Exhaust. You have to have adjustable cam gears and precise measuring to get the timing correct as it throws the timing out 180 deg, as the intake and exhaust cams have to be swapped so miata intake will now go on the DE exhaust and vice versa. It is a night mare to most. If you run aftermarket cams on this motor make sure they are matching, meaning intake and exhaust have the same lift and duration.

And whats this about running Turbo cams on an NA car being better than stock? Turbo cams are lower duration and higher lift than the NA cams. this will only take the 115hp and 90 something torque that you have "AT THE CRANK" and reduce it. Generally you will see a 20% reduction to the wheels from the crank ratings on average anyways.

other than that you can nix the power steering and ac, but youll need to depower the rack: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

This is good for about a 5 to 8 hp gain at the crank

please also make note, the ecu WILL EVENTUALLY NEED TO BE CHANGED.... the ecu in the mx3 relies heavily on the vics, egr and idle air bypass systems to run correctly and will cause the engine run like complete s--- if you remove them...i know:cough:

if you keep an eye on the for sale forum im trying to build some itbs for b6, b8, bp and k series motors in my spare time...just a thought....

those who have done ITB's on these motors have been disappointed only seeing a 15 to 20 HP increase overall depending, and you have to run a stand alone due to the the MAF or VAF depending on the ECU setup you running, unless you run a plenum but that kind of defeats the entire purpose. i would recommend getting rid of the Vics like you said but by doing so with a sheet aluminum manifold and velocity stacks.

[4gotn]

ok first off the b6de is not weak as hell and its easily boosted. i have two cars with a b6de and am satisfied with both of them.
second, never bothered to dig that deap into the heads, just trying to be helpful. if he was interested in doing the swap he would need to research that.
third, yet again just providing some info he might want to look into, and the turbo cams thing was a joke, dont get your panties in a wad
fourth, still a power gain. Also, the swap reduces upkeep.
lastly, your preaching to the quire, im working on options that dont require major mods

[jcallaway86]

Disregarding the flamer... As far as being slow or wanting to go quicker, i'm going to point out the obvious:
Tune up, fresh oil, clean filter etc will usually get you a long way. If memory serves right the SOHC does 0-60 in about 10.5 while the DOHC does it in 9 something.. Might have been 9.5. Ofcourse the V6 does in mid 8s.

The official number from motor week for a ranger 4.0l is 8.1

http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2027.shtml

If you want to beat that in a stop light race then you'll need about 130hp at the crank, and you'll need to lose about 100 lbs of weight (and be a damn good driver )

So the question becomes... can easy bolt-ons net you 24 more hp at the crank? Sure, it's close but it *should* be possible. Just remember to drop the extra baggage. Removing the A/C and Power steering like 4gotn wrote gets you closer and drops a good chunk of weight in the process, CAI, Headers, and a decent exhaust system should get you pretty darn close.

Lastly, there's always the chance the ford will break, then it's an easy win.

[Josh]

Is the B6DE strong, Yes; Is is reliable, Yes; Can it make good reliable power, Yes. Intake, exhaust, eliminating pullys all things that will give small increases to this motor, But cost effectiveness wise it is cheaper and more beneficial to install a 1.8L BP it is the better bang for the buck, you will spend less and get more. My b6de on 6 psi of boost did 14.1 in the 1/4 mile. it was quick for my junkyard turbo kit and built motor. Really the weakest part about the B6DE is really the F25 gearbox.

[Nd4SpdSe]

can easy bolt-ons net you 24 more hp at the crank? Sure, it's close but it *should* be possible. Just remember to drop the extra baggage. Removing the A/C and Power steering like 4gotn wrote gets you closer and drops a good chunk of weight in the process, CAI, Headers, and a decent exhaust system should get you pretty darn close..

First, the HP is rated at the crank, bolt on and removing accessorries just free's up power loss in the system.

But really, you bought a car with 105hp and want to race it?

[carizle]

Disregarding the flamer....

I love when n00bs get mad and try to argue with someone that has built an AWD MX-3. Freakin AWD! Not that I'm not a n00b myself Jeez show some respect at least. Anyway, I wouldn't even touch an rs 4 knocker without the intentions of swapping a b6t, bpt or whatever other appropriate swap; my K8 is slow enough as it is.

[carizle]

But really, you bought a car with 105hp and want to race it?

He must be a former Honda guy who thinks D series motors are cool You'd be better off getting a crx with those power numbers if you want to go faster being about 600lbs lighter.