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Okay guys, I'm hoping we can ALL contribute to this to the best of our considerable abilities.

My current setup(in car) is a failed power window motor and a wiggly track, with the rubber glass channel that slides and binds.

My setup in front of me(on the floor) is a minty power window track/motor(entire assembly MINT) that has been tested and functions perfectly.

My goal:

Put this new sucker in, and get 5+ years of reliable window usage without having to put in another fricken motor.

Butyl tape will hold the glass channel in place, and if it doesn't it'll be gorilla glue next. Not even kidding, I'll fix this or die trying. I will beef up the wiring a bit for the motor setup, and double up the grounds(another semi-common weakness for the windows). On top of this, I will lubricate the glass channel with a spray lubricant that i use for my door locks, and use a dry lubricant for the power window track itself. I will check it every 6 months if need be, and if that doesn't work... Manual windows it is, because reliability beats convenience any day.

Any other tips guys?

Use a teflon based spray lubricant for the track, I found that it works much better over time than any other dry lube, I have used it even in heavy duty applications since I am a heavy equipment tech and use the stuff regularly on large equipment I gave it a shot on the track and it works very well. The other thing that I discovered quite by accident is that the forward/rearward tilt of the window makes a big difference in the binding issue, since there are only 2 screws holding the window in place it has a tendency to tilt if it binds at all causing even more binding. To correct that I fabbed a wider bracket that supports the window it is 6" wide and welded to the track support and it supports the window a great deal more. Short of that using a scissor style bracket/motor setup would probably work best.

Thanks for the tip, I do happen to have some laying around from a previous project... I used white lithium grease(liberal amounts of it, in all the right places I might add) and the effect was mediocre. The track is smooth and the window moves well, but it's still a little slow in warm weather. My last power motor seemed a bit stronger, that thing would push the window up with the radio, headlights, and interior lights on(engine not running) without hesitation. I'm pissed that I lost that motor... took me forever to scab it together, and I haven't been able to fix it since.

As for the butyl tape suggestion, BIG TIME props to whoever thought of that. Beautiful effect, but I recommend you properly size the strips of tape before you put it in the track, getting the seal back into place was a bit difficult and I had to resize the tape a few times.

Guess I'm lucky, all three of my MX-3 power window GS's windows worked great but now that I've said this I know I'm doomed. On the other hand I have a complete assembly for both doors so. My 95 had crank windows and I was happy with them except it was a little bit of a pain having to reach over to open the passengers window all the time in the summer.

Daninski wrote:Guess I'm lucky, all three of my MX-3 power window GS's windows worked great but now that I've said this I know I'm doomed. On the other hand I have a complete assembly for both doors so. My 95 had crank windows and I was happy with them except it was a little bit of a pain having to reach over to open the passengers window all the time in the summer.

My first one was crap... My 2nd motor was WAY more powerful... Didn't have any problems with it stalling or anything, it just died one day... My current setup works pretty well, I just avoid using the DS window when the car isn't running. I'll make a new bracket for it, Newfie_dan is right on the money with that. To make matters worse, my old track assembly wiggled, so it had forward/backward play... I'll bet that's why my 2nd motor went out without warning. Instant stress and boom.