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So for Christmas my folks got me a SE Purple MX-3 (they know I'm a fanboi). The problem is that it's been sitting in someone's driveway since 2007 (the inspection sticker says as much). What caused the original owners to stop driving it in 2007, I couldn't tell you. The problem comes with the issue of starting it up to see if the K8 is still alive. What should I do before attempting to start the car? What I had in mind was:

Changing the spark plugs
Changing the spark plug wires
Changing the Oil
Possibly changing the fuel pump
Draining and refilling the tank with fresh gas (assuming when it was last driven the tank wasn't full, that'd be a pain)
Running some fuel injector cleaner through (if it starts)
Flushing the coolant?

Any ideas what else I should to to prevent massive damage? I used the search function but the only thing I could find was the thread about the guy who found a MX-3 in a parking garage with 32,000 original miles on it. I've been driving a 1.6l 4banger MX-3 for about 5 years so I know almost nothing about V6 MX-3s. I'd love to keep my current MX-3 as a DD until I can get the purple one in top driving shape, it has similar body panel blemishes as mine but fewer accidents so technically it's a more sound car. Also keep in mind by just hopping to the K8 (from the B6) I'm gaining (roughly) 40HP.

I look forward to making a worklog when I get the car running and on the road to a KLZE, and I'll finally have a reason to post in the V6 section! Thanks for any help in advance.

Check distributor, they're notorious for being burnt up.

Pour a little oil down the cylinders and crank it dry a few times. IF you hold the gas down to the floor it is called "dechoke" and prevents the injectors from firing, letting you crank without it starting. Do it at least until the oil light goes off, after that I'd just start her up and let it hit full running temp just idling.

Good idea to drain and replace the gas too. Bolt on the bottom of the tank.

2007 meh big deal it's not like it's been sitting 10 years. I'd look change the oil or at least check it has oil in it and just make sure the plugs and plug wires are ok for it to start. Then give it a go don't think much can go wrong with good oil in the engine. Unless it was outside for the whole 3 years getting rain/show etc the fuel should be ok to at least fire up....

Ryan wrote:Pour a little oil down the cylinders and crank it dry a few times. IF you hold the gas down to the floor it is called "dechoke" and prevents the injectors from firing, letting you crank without it starting. Do it at least until the oil light goes off, after that I'd just start her up and let it hit full running temp just idling.

Really, they do that? I thought that was a recently implemented feature, never would of guessed that Mx-3's did that, not for their age...

Well, I don't know if you could do this, but maybe try pulling the plugs, put oil in the cylinders, pull the injectors fuse and crank it a few times with the plugs out; help lubricate the cylinders, rings and walls?

dechoke:

http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... F2-136.gif

It mentions the coolant thing, but I don't think it does use the coolant signal. If it does, then just unplug the green sensor and its thinks its infinitely cold.

Yes crank the engine over with the plugs out to bring up the oil pressure first.

Daninski wrote:Yes crank the engine over with the plugs out to bring up the oil pressure first.

If you just wanted the starter motor to turn the engine and get oil going around, wouldn't it be best to remove the distributors electrical connector and fuel rail electrical connectors?

That would be way easier than removing all 6 plugs and you'd stop all fuel and spark wouldn't you?

Yes and no, depends on the results you want...

With the plugs out, you can:
1 - Add oil to the cylinders to aid in the initial lubrication
2 - Doesn't allow the cylinders to experience compression, especially if all is dry, especially the rings, which also,
3 - Helps out the starter motor by not working as hard for the cranking.

Also, it's just as easy to pull the fuse for the injectors, which is in the fuse box in the engine bay, than actually disconnect the rail, especially if they connector decides to be a PITA.

I'd pull the injectors, oil the cylinder with a teaspoon or so of oil. Change the fuel filter, and drain all the old gas by disconnecting the inlet fuel line from the fuel rail and jump the fuel pump. This will evacuate the lines of old fuel too. Then crank it over a few times with the plugs out using the starter motor. After that check the basics, but they might not need to be changed/fixed.
basics would start with tune-up, lug studs and lugs, wheel bearings, oil leaks, air filter, ball joints and sway bar endlinks, CV boots.
A tune-up of plugs, wires, disty cap and rotor is not a bad idea, but will be fine if they are still in good shape.
Did you get any sort of service records or parts reciepts with the car?

In truth 3 years is not an extremely long time for an engine to sit. Oil change is essential obviously. Pulling, inspecting, cleaning and gapping the plugs is going to save you some grief. Draining the old fuel is a good idea but also not much fun. I wouldn't do that unless it wasn't starting inexplicably. I would personally drain the coolant from the rad just by unhooking the bottom rad hose. If the previous owner had a weak coolant mix there's a good chance the coolant will be very gunky and rusty. If it is I would flush the coolant.

If it ran before it was parked it will probably run now. Start it up, look for leaks, look for smoke and other signs of impending doom. Let it warm up.

PATDIESEL wrote:I'd pull the injectors

Out of curiousity, why would you pull the injectors? Would be more work, especially to pull the intake, you can potentially mess up the o-rings, or just disturb them enough to need to replace them. Last I checked, they weren't really cheap either.

Haha all the responses are great! I'm excited I got some of the old-timers to respond as well
Once I get my hands on the car I'll probably do the plugs and wires at least, oil the cylinders as suggested, change the fuel filter and the oil, and crank it with the plugs out to bring up the oil pressure. I shouldn't be out too much money by the time I get everything. I'll probably keep the same gas in there and try to start it.

I'll keep you guys updated although it may be a few weeks until I get the car towed to where I'm going to work on it (the tires are flat and possibly dry-rotted or punctured).