MX-3.com

so I have grabed a mazda 1.8L BPT engine, FWD tranny, ECU, and side mount intercooler with VJ11 Turbo from a local 323 owner in my city

the engine showed good compression tests and was clocked at 247 WHP in April of this year on a dyno

Ive been doing a lot of research on club protege and mazda323 as well as our site....but i always find better information when creating a post and hearing from others experances

Step 1: Rebuilding the engine
Question: does anyone know if the engine torque specs for BP engines are the same as BPT engine? all I have been able to find is BP specs

Step 2: Hauling out old stock engine
Question: and body run into little problems when hoisting their engins out?

Step 3: Installing new engine and wiring
Question: once again anyone with experance with this and has any advice with little snags or things that didnt go so smoothly that i should be cautious of would be appreciated

*If anyone would like to leave comments of personal builds or builds of friends any info would be appreciated thanks all

now i assume your putting the BPT from the 323 into your mx-3?
what year is your mx?
only thing i have to warn you about is that the engine bay of the 323 is a little bigger than the mx, so the exact piping might be a little off, this is what happened to me so i had to change the piping a little.
i find its easier just swapping over the entire engine harness, that way you don't need to unplug everything on the engine, just from the ECU and dash harness.
i could go on and on about things to do, but instead i'll just give you a site that has a LOT of info on bp swaps, i HAD to go there for some info because most guys here are V6.

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=12

here's the link for BP torque specs too
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46578

and yeah, if you just search around here or CP (club protege) there's info for EVERYTHING involving the bp swap

you know what, just cancel EVERYTHING i've just told you, because you have a 96 mx-3 which means it's OBD2, which i have no experience with at all and i've never even searched that up before.
you have to search it up and see if other people have swapped into an OBD-2 and see what they did

will need a full wire harness/ecu swap tooooooo

The torque specs are all the same. Exception for the crank pulley bolt if there
was a difference in size (shoulder of the bolt is 23ish mm vs 27 mm on 'large' nose
cranks). There could be a 20-30 ftlb difference there. The only other thing to
watch is the main and head stud torque also the crankshaft bolts. I mention the
crankshaft bolts because they require such little torque (10ish ftlbs) that they are
easy to snap off in the head if your T-wrench is fuxxored.

Main studs are 40-43 ftlbs
Conrods 35-37 ftlbs
Head studs are stock 56-60 ftlbs (ARP are higher, read the manual they provide carefully)
Crank pulley is 116-123 ftlbs (you can torque the shiz out of this one)
The crankshaft bolts are 100-126 INCH POUNDS (8-10 ftlbs)

Ive got a GTR manual and they dont even list torque specs, just the minute
differences in the rods, pistons, cams and valves.

As for the wiring do as RS_OBD'oh_2 says.