Head gasket?

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Okay here is the deal... been having a rather small oil leak in the BP.. thought I could hold off on fixing it as it's cold and rainy out this week.

But today upon checking things, I noticed that, in the coolant reservoir, it was all oil-y with coolant...

So my question is, is this a head gasket leak? There was no coolant inside the oil when I drained it today.

I haven't checked compression of pistons though should I?

Also, I did take a quick glance around the engine bay to see if I could spot any leaks.. didn't see any on the front of the engine, but I did see some oil down the back.... no coolant leaks anywhere though.


Just to give you a heads up on the engine in case you didn't know, it was rebuilt with:

NPR Rings
Rock engine bearings
Apex lower seals/gaskets
ITM Upper gasket set
Rock Water Pump
PCI Timing belt/tensioners.
Lifters with less than 1k miles on them.
Block cleaning/Cylinder Deglazing
Head cleaning/valve lapping

[Ryan]

It could just be from the rebuild, accidentally getting some in the coolant passages when lubing the bores before you assembled, etc.

give it a coolant flush and see if the problem persists/gets worse.

[Inodoro Pereyra]

I agree with Ryan.

But first, how does your oil look? Is it turbid, like milk coffee?
If it is, chances are it's the head gasket.

In my experience, most of the times, a blown head gasket will let water into the oil (causing the milkyness), but I've never seen the oil going into the water. The only time I've seen that, it was a cracked block. But in that case, there was a LOT of oil in the coolant.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

I agree with Ryan.

But first, how does your oil look? Is it turbid, like milk coffee?
If it is, chances are it's the head gasket.

In my experience, most of the times, a blown head gasket will let water into the oil (causing the milkyness), but I've never seen the oil going into the water. The only time I've seen that, it was a cracked block. But in that case, there was a LOT of oil in the coolant.

No the oil looks fine. But I am losing a good bit of it. I also only lose it when it's running.

To give an idea of how much I'm losing, I've driven it about 300 miles and have gone a small bit past the "low" line.

I will do a coolant flush tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too cold out when I do it .

[Ryan]

Brand new motors are a bit strange, its not too weird to burn oil like that, but it should clear up within, like, 2000 miles...

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Just as an extra precaution, I'd take the valve cover off, and check the torque on the head bolts.
Did you lube the bolts when you installed them?
If you didn't, take them off, one by one, lube the threads, reinstall them, and re-torque them.

[Ryan]

You're right Inodoro, but its actually a bit of a dangerous procedure.

If there is too much oil in the bolt hole, and you torque a bolt into it, and then heat it to 100 degrees.... recipe for kaboom.

So don't drizzle the bolt in it like a twinkie, but just get a film on it...

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Yep. You're right. I should've been more specific...

I normally use assembly lube, precisely because it's thicker, so it won't drip into the hole.
Anyways, if you do it carefully, you can use engine oil, no problem.
I seem to remember somebody telling me they used anti-seize for the job, but I'm not entirely sure...

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Thanks for the tips. I did not lube the bolts.

However, I did re-use all the bolts for the engine.. is that bad? Should I take the head bolts off and put on ARP studs?

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Yes, it's bad, and yes, you should use new bolts. ARP bolts are a good choice (and studs, if you can find them, are even better). And, if you buy ARP, they have a specific lube for the bolts, that seems to be very good stuff...

[Ryan]

No, Inodoro, you can re-use the bolts, as long as they are within spec.

Yes, they're TTY, all bolts yield under torque, and are therefore TTY, BUT....

A bolt does not always yield. You could torque a head bolt 100000 times to 10 ft lbs, and not hit the yield point, or torque it to 100 ft lbs once, and hit the yield point.

Or like these, torque them NEAR the yeild point, so they do permanently strech when torqued to spec, but not enough to kill the strength after one use.

This is a good graph of what I'm trying to say:



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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=2010732" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


The bolts have a stretch spec. If its not past that point, its not past the yield point, and is STILL SAFE TO USE.

[Inodoro Pereyra]

Hmmm...I've always thought you had to replace them...

Thank you Ryan, for the data.
Either way, I don't know if I'd risk it (especially being that a set of head bolts isn't that expensive), but it's good to know, in case of emergency, I can.

[Ryan]

My 30+ year Mazda tech never replaced K or B head bolts, unless they were damaged.

As I'm sure you know, these motors can take as shitshow of abuse. They'd probably run fine with half the headbolts missing.

Inspect the threads, make sure the bolt isn't pinching itself off (ductile stretch)


Check the length...

There shouldn't be any other problems.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Just letting you guys know I took it to a friend who owns a Penzoil station (used to get oil off him all the time since he was right next door to my old boss's shop) and we got it in the shop. Took a look and it's pouring out oil more then I thought. And it is coming from the head. So going to get some ARP studs and a new head gasket and tear into her.... also going to have to get some cascade soap to clean out the coolant passages.

[tomazela]

I'm having a little oil leakage problem too, in the head gasket.

It's just a bit of oil that is weting the outside of the block , and a bit of white smoke on the exhaust.

I think that just a re-torque on the head bolts would solve.

How do I do this?? I screw-of and retorque one by one, or I just take all of , and put again?

What torque do I use? The same of the manual, or a little bit less?

What does mean the +85° -95° +85° -95° in the manual, that's an alternative angle torque, or I must do this after the force torque?

And why + and - angles?? I must screw and screw of??

Alot of questions , I'm a little lost!!