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Thursday evening about 7pm. I pulled into the parking lot of a catering location i was hired for.
When i applied the brakes to reverse into the park spot for unloading, my brake pedal went all the
way to the floor. I opened the door to listen if i could hear or see anything.
A line of brake fluid was visible as well as the sound of air when i pump the brakes.
Happy I made it there in one piece, i went about my business.
I didnt get done till after midnight. I called my tow guy and had him meet me there.
When he arrived, his tow bed hydraulics blew out (or what ever happends)
So he couldnt tow me. At this point i'am more then an hour from home.
So, towing is going to be high. I realize I will have to drive it a little closer to home.
So, i got it 23 miles from my house when the HOLD light came on and
got me worried with all the deer out this time of year. I wont be able to stop for deer safely.
I pulled over and called another tow company. I woke up some old guy that let me kind of set my price.
I told him how much i could pay, he agreed to do it for that amount (60.00)
Anyway... i got the car safely home. It is now Saturday, and after closer inspection,
i see that i have rusted brake lines. Is that going to be a high dollar replacement issue?
I see four spots that had been leaking brake fluid, plus the giant hole in the line close by the gas tank
near the drivers side back wheel. I don't see how i can replace only those sections.
I will have to replace the entire line. Can I buy the materials to do it, and buy a bender to bend it
my self? Or does this have to be done by a pro? Thank you in advance for any ideas/ help. De

they do sell brake lines for our cars
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/searc ... ne&submit=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ok, cool, thanks!

no stainless steel?

De buy a big bottle of DOT3 brake fluid and don't let the reservoir go empty. You'll end up having to bleed your clutch as well. If your going to do the job spray all the fittings a day before with a real good penetrate. Use line wrenches to undo the lines so you won't strip the fitting and if it's real tight some times tightening the fitting just a tiny bit will help you get the fitting loose. Cheers

mitmaks wrote:they do sell brake lines for our cars
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/searc ... ne&submit=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are for VW and Jeep only... After checking other companies for the Mazda brake lines,
I could only find more VW and Jeep only aftermartket brake lines.

So, im back at square one.

It is possible to only replace sections if need be, but you need a special flair tool or some creativity.

I would just take it to a shop, they can bend line, and make the proper fittings. Is the rest of the underside of the car bad? rusted through brake lines is a bad sign...

aren't stock lines stainless steel? Maybe go to local junk yard and see if they can pull some lines for you.

if i buy the brake line at the parts store and bend it my self... will that work the same?
Whats that rear junction/ splitter box thing called? All the fittings that screw into it, have all crumbled.

tripleMX-3chicMS wrote:if i buy the brake line at the parts store and bend it my self... will that work the same?
Whats that rear junction/ splitter box thing called? All the fittings that screw into it, have all crumbled.

You have 4 options:

1. Buy the pre bent lines at the dealership. Probably expensive.

2. Buy the lines at the auto part store, already cut, with fittings. You just have to bend them and install them. Cheap, a little more involved, and works perfectly. You just have to figure how long each of your lines are. Those lines come in plenty of lengths, from just a few inches, up to 6 ft. long.

3. Buy the line in bulk (roll), cut it, add fittings, flare it, and bend it yourself. A lot of work, and probably not worth the savings, IMO.

4. Buy flexible, steel braided brake line at a performance store, and fittings. The least amount of work (you don't need to bend it), but you have to make sure it's secured properly underneath the car.

In my opinion, bang for the buck, option 2 is the way to go. You will need a tube bender, and some time, but once you finish, you'll have the best result, performance and longevity wise, and for a fraction of the cost of pre bent lines.

The little box at the rear axle is called a "tee". You can get it at your auto parts store.

Thank you Inodoro Pereyra... That is some info i can sink my teeth into.
I have my list as we speak... heading to autozone in the morning tomorrow.

Wish me luck everyone De

If I recall correctly, Inodoro reminds me, a friend of mine bought the lines from the dealership and it wasn't that expensive... like $60 for all of them...

I agree with Inedoro. If you can find lengths with the flare fittings already in place and just bend them to fit you'll have a great finished product with the least work and cost. The lengths may not be exactly the same as the piece you're replacing, just add an extra bend to take up the slack.

Go to Advance Auto Parts. As much as I dislike them, they have a type of multi layered tubing that promises to be much better than the standard ones. You'll recognize them because they're black.

Ryan wrote:If I recall correctly, Inodoro reminds me, a friend of mine bought the lines from the dealership and it wasn't that expensive... like $60 for all of them...

Only $60??? You sure?
I thought they charge you more than that just to say hello to you...