Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator + Sport Cams problem

[djArias]

Well I have two small problems with Installing Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator, I would appreciate any help.
1) The ori. Fuel Pressure Regulator has two Vacuum lines connected to it, on the diagram below no 1 and 2:


The adj. Fuel Pres. Reg. has got only one Vacuum Line connector -> So I assume that One should be either blinded, or just let it be disconnected or what? And which one should I pick 1 or 2, and what would be the best thing to do with the other?
2) I have huge problems finding "Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter" to install on the rail and remove the old Regulator -> Will it work fine if I connect fuel Lines to new Presure Regulator and than from New Pres. Reg. to the old one or will the old one decrease the fuel pressure?

Thanks in advance for help

[TMeadows]

First things first, you are going to want to remove the old pressure regulator.

Second, If the new pressure regulator only has one vacuum connection I would say to use the vacuum line from the PRC Solenoid Valve and cap the other one at the nearest connection. (the T fitting where the hose splits)

As for the adapter you are looking for, I think this may work.

http://www.erzperformance.com/Weapon_R_ ... p/wr26.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
or
http://www.more-japan.com/SARD-Fuel-Pre ... 16836.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would suggest taking a measurement, and possibly contacting them before you order.

In the past if I have wanted to ditch the stock regulator I have just installed a different fuel rail.

[djArias]

First things first, you are going to want to remove the old pressure regulator.

I dunno if I understood you but I want to have adjustable Pressure Regulator installed -> makes no difference to me if the old one is still there or not, as long as I'm sure that the old one won't affect the fuel pressure...

[TMeadows]

That is what I am saying, you need to remove the old one. Check the first link above, should be exactly the solution you are looking for.

[djArias]

Thanks for help small problem is that I'm from Poland and it's a bit expensive to order "adapter" from US :> That's why I've been thinking about some other sollutions...

[TMeadows]

what city in poland? I can do a quick shipping calculation if you can tell me that.

Never mind that, I just checked a random city and it was $135 USD

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

useless mod unless you have boost / larger injectors. In/out and vac. Not hard to mess up... but ya, the old one has got to go before a new one can be installed.

[djArias]

Thanks for help, I'm almost ready to install new FPR but I still have one question, manual says that:
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... F1-125.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

there are two fuel pressure values: 2,9 and 3,5 does any one know when it switches from 2,9 to 3,5? Is 2.9 only when the engine is cold and after couple of minutes it switches to 3,5 or is 3,5 only for extremely high temperatures?

I want to get around 10% higher FPR, so I've been thinking about setting the new FPR to 3.9 with 0 acceleration, which means 4.7 with fully opened throttle -> still I'm not sure whether this 3.5 on Standard FPR is there from 90C or earlier or if it makes any difference?

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

Sorry, but why are you doing this?
Do you have extra air going into the engine which would require more fuel? Adding fuel without forced induction will make your car slower with worse mpg.

[djArias]

I have ordered sport cams, and to take full advantage of them I had to change the crystal in my ECU from 8 to 8.8mhz (as dyno results show in B6 or BP engines thanks to sport cams you get power increase up to 7500 or more depends on the crystal).
THe problem is that By Now I'm out of money and I cannot afford getting a PIGGY BACK ECU, and I need to add some extra fuel and that's basicly it.

[Ryan]

sounds like speculation to me

[djArias]

I'm not a pro. but as far as I know Ori. FPR can handle up to 10% of BHP and nM increase -> which I already achieved. Anything more than 10% needs additional fuel, sure best sollution would be Piggy Back + Broadband oxygen sensor, but temporarly I cannot afford it. Another reason for FPR is that installing crystal leans the AFR ... So It sounds pretty resonable to add this additional 10% Fuel Pressure.
Final decision is that after I've installed Sport Cams I'll go to the dyno with the ori. FPR and check results, than increase Fuel Pressure to 3.9 and go to the dyno again :]
btw. I'll have to install Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor -> Just in case AFR get's to lean ;]

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

this sounds like the slowest way to add power, best o'luck

[djArias]

Not Boosted Power Increase Was and will be slow and expensive and still there's not much you can do with b6bf engine -> Lightened Flywheel (done), CAI (done), 4-2-1 manifold (in progress), Sport Cams (soon), Exhaust (done), after that only piggy Back to make sure that everything works fine and well this should result in a good and reliable car with decent acceleration... I like N/A tuning and Im not in a rush so I can slowly but surely do my job and make sure that everything is of high quality.

[djArias]

Just a small question I've installed sport cams (duration 260), had a small problem with knocking, unluckily did a couple of kilometers with badly set ignition timing. Right now every thing is set properly but somehow my engine started consuming oil with this new cams... Is it possible that the knocking messed up my piston rings?
Especially with acceleration pedal pressed to maximum there is a (should be blue?) white cloud behind the car