'92 B6 SOHC wont start

[BlazeSquall]

Hello all,

Long time searcher, first time poster. Having a bit of trouble with my 92 I picked up a few months ago.

It's always had trouble starting during Winter. Now that it warmed up a bit it's been fine. The CEL never turned on, even while starting so yesterday I took the dash out to replace the bulb. Found out there wasn't a bulb there (Gee.. Wonder why). Popped it in, jumped TEN and GND and got code 9. Makes sense to me that the CTS was bad and the engine was using a reference temp. This also explained why the previous own set the idle so high.

While taking out the instrument cluster I disconnected the mechanical speedometer sensor. I couldn't get enough slack to reattach it, so today I disconnected it from the tranny. In order to do this, I removed the battery and the intake. I knocked out the Main Disty lead.

Now the car wont start after putting it back together. I get spark, so I don't think it's the disty. It starts idles up to ~1000 then dies. It's not rough or anything. Seems just like it was during winter, except it doesn't eventually start.

I -THINK- wiping the engine codes may have caused this. The engine now thinks the CTS is good relies on it. Is there any way to 'trick' the ECU into faulting code 9 again? I'm not sure if the sensor is bad, so after posting this I'm going to go pull it and test it per the reference manual. Is there anything I can jump in the diag box? I had hoped pulling the sensor would help but the ECU doesn't detect is missing. I'm going to also try setting the idle screw back to where it was.

Anyone have any better ideas? I've searched but I can't find anything near what I'm looking for.

[BlazeSquall]

Update ( And a free bump ).

Played around a bit with it again today. The CTS does seem fine. Resistance is within specs.

I remember unscrewing the screws on the AFM and then realizing I was going about it the wrong way. I opened that sealed part on the top after not getting any resistance per spec. Seems like I broke off three points from the PCB that's in there. Resistance is fine after those pins. Going to fix that now. Well try too. Would the AFM that gives no readings stop the engine from idling? I'm thinking so. We'll see.

Seems to be a bit of solder work already in here. Maybe the guy before me did the same thing.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

Update ( And a free bump ).

Played around a bit with it again today. The CTS does seem fine. Resistance is within specs.

I remember unscrewing the screws on the AFM and then realizing I was going about it the wrong way. I opened that sealed part on the top after not getting any resistance per spec. Seems like I broke off three points from the PCB that's in there. Resistance is fine after those pins. Going to fix that now. Well try too. Would the AFM that gives no readings stop the engine from idling? I'm thinking so. We'll see.

Seems to be a bit of solder work already in here. Maybe the guy before me did the same thing.

hahahahaha i did that SAME thing when i first got the car.

That's your problem as to why it isn't starting/idling bad. Once you fix/replace the VAF, you'll be good

[BlazeSquall]

And she starts.

She's throwing 8, 9, and 10 now. But she's running.

I thought it was 18 but i guess that's not a valid code. Must be two separate.

8 and 10 are for the AFM. I wonder if they're from all the cranking etc from earlier. Maybe just reset it and see what pops up. 9 I understand.. It has a 2000 OHM resistor on it right now.... Actually, I think the harness wire is bad for the CTS.. engine shouldn't be able to throw a check engine since the 2000 OHM resistor would be within an acceptable range right? Must be a short elsewhere.

Eh.. for another day. It's ~70 here so it's close enough.

[Dark_Rider2k3]

If you didn't reset the codes then I'd do so. Then re-check.

[Ryan]

Why not just replace the VAF? its a cheap part, doesn't usually go. try a local scrap yard. If you don't have any luck, I have one I can send you.

[BlazeSquall]

Why not just replace the VAF? its a cheap part, doesn't usually go. try a local scrap yard. If you don't have any luck, I have one I can send you.

Thanks Ryan. I'm just not convinced it's bad yet. I'll hit you up if it's not working out so we can work something out. Junk yards are what started this mess.

I didn't see a single intact intake, let alone the VAF portion. Tons of duct taped intake tubes though.. weird.

[Ryan]

I have both v6 and 4 cyl accordion intake tubes, as well

[BlazeSquall]

What about a Driver's side window switch? Now that would be nice.

[Ryan]

fresh out. sorry.

[BlazeSquall]

Reset the ECU and 8 and 10 are gone. Also has a rock solid 800 rpm idle now.. before it was anywhere between 900-1500 at worst. I guess one of those pins was already broken off before I damaged the others.

Just going to re-run wire to ECU instead of tracking down the problem with the CTS.

Thanks all.

[Collin]

Ryan will you please help me? The fuel pump is working, I got spark, removed fuel lines and fuel is passing through just fine. I replace alternator, battery and whole distr. I turn the key and it just keeps trying to start, but never does. Took plug out and sprayed starter fluid and nothing. Car was running fine two days ago when I parked it and now nothing.

[Collin]

it's a 5 speed by the way.