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What oil do you reccomend i run in a k8 with 257,000 km. I say 10w 40 would do it. But i like to race a lot so i was wondering if i should and can run 15w40 dual purpose motor oil. I dont know.
what do u guys do.??

It's hot here in Australia and I'm using 15W-40 for now. Many nights it doesn't even go below 20 degrees celcius so there's no need for a super thin oil in summer here. I'd go 10-40 or 10-50 or 15-whatever if it's hot. You don't need 0W or 5W when it's so hot.

cool ok. someone told me they would never put 15w-40 in there engine so i guess i had bad thoughts about it haha???

Thats a heavy start-up weight.

You are in ktwon right? I am from Vernon, and I run 5w30 or 5w40 all year long. No issues.

mikeetown wrote:cool ok. someone told me they would never put 15w-40 in there engine so i guess i had bad thoughts about it haha???

That's what I run in my diesel truck. 10W30 is fine for a stock k8

well you see, i'd like to know how thick isnt too thick cause i like to rev up a lot. I cant run synthetic cause the car has 269,000 and has never had synthetic. I know that switching is a baaad thing. I have already had probs with synthetic in the past with other cars.

But then again, mineral that is too thick wont flow as well lol so its so debatible. I'll probably run 10w-30 all year round or maybe 10w-40.

ended up using 15w-40 in the summer. At high rpms, it was smooth. No problems at all. Also, the cams became super quiet. This is just walmart tech 2000 10w-40.

Revived your own thread?

Just playing, updates are good!

I ran Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 for almost a year, and had no complaints at all! I recently swapped to 5w30 and have had a HUGE increase in noise level at startup, although it's fine after she warms up a bit. My preference would be the 10w30, I'll be swapping back to it in another 3k miles.

been always running 10w30 in my mx3

You guys are crazy for running anything other than 5W-30 or 0W-30. Even 5W-30 isn't perfect on cold-start but it's the best thing that's readily available. Whoever is running 40 is causing premature engine wear as well as it would take A LOT of CONSTANT high rpm driving for 40 to thin out enough to provide proper lubrication. I dunno where you guys are getting your theories from but it sounds like a lot of you need to read up on oil. I also doubt anyone of you is running oil pressure & temp gauges to back it up.

Lol.

MrMazda92 wrote:Revived your own thread?

Just playing, updates are good!

I ran Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 for almost a year, and had no complaints at all! I recently swapped to 5w30 and have had a HUGE increase in noise level at startup, although it's fine after she warms up a bit. My preference would be the 10w30, I'll be swapping back to it in another 3k miles.

Thx for your good input. I am now running Mobil 1 10w-30.

Ok other guy. below. So, synthetic oil, is great no matter what temp where I live. It only gets to a steady -10 anyway. At school, I got 10w-30 synthetic up to 227 Kelvin (-46 degrees Celsius) and it still was runny enough to do a cold start because that how it is designed (chem student, used this as a project for 2nd year and it was hilariously fun). It did get a bit thicker but still can flow after a good 5 seconds. I know no one in the right mind would do this stuff but I pay tuition to use my colleges resources and we happen to have a molecular Kelvin freezing point apparatus and room to do tests in. I hope that clears that up cause it sure did for myself.

If we are talking regular motor oils, you are right about 5w-30 and how it SHOULD be used in -1 and lower temps.

Also, to clarify on the 15w-40 thing, In summer here, its a steady 30 degrees Celsius to 40 degrees Celsius and all summer every 2nd day I was actrually revving a 280,000km K8 to 7000+ rpm on a road called westside road. I, after all that revving with my buddies was thoroughly impressed at this engine robustness by the way. (this is a link to my summer driving adventure with a whole bunch of people)

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... 5503353058" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

my engine pissed oil out the exhaust when decelerating cause of bad valve seals and after a 30 min run i burned like 1 litre using 10w-40 and lucas oil stabalizer. This was cut down by 75% when i switched to cheap walmart 15w-40. I knew i was swapping the engine out anyway at sept 1st.

Basicly, k8's are amazing. I changed the oile every 3000km cause i get filters for 4.50$ at lordco and the oil is $8.88 for 4 litres at wally world.

The engine ran so damn good with this oil when in extreme driving. Also, was quiet and perfectly good at regular driving speeds in super hot hot weather.

I definately want to hear peoples inputs on this becuase I literally drove the k8 like a madman at 7000 + or - for a good 4 months straight and 3 months on 15w-40.

MrMazda92 wrote:Revived your own thread?

Just playing, updates are good!

I ran Mobile 1 full synthetic 10w30 for almost a year, and had no complaints at all! I recently swapped to 5w30 and have had a HUGE increase in noise level at startup, although it's fine after she warms up a bit. My preference would be the 10w30, I'll be swapping back to it in another 3k miles.

You know, I find it noisy with 10w-30 still. I'm definitely taking your word for it dude. what do you think of castrol 5w-40 syn?

I put 5 w 30 AMSOIL in my ZE with a Hastings filter and it runs great. Minimal lifter noise and greatly increased gas mileage as well, Im really impressed with the product. As far as Lucas goes check this out. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

People has to understand engineers are not stupid, and they actually STUDIED, before starting to design engines.
The manuals for both the K8 and the KL specifically say (page 7-16) to use 10W30 for ANY TEMPERATURE over -25°C (about -10°F) approx., or (there's an overlap), 5W30 for any temperature under 0°C (32°F) approx.
That means, if you live in HELL, you need to use 10W30, but keep some 5W30 at hand, just in case it freezes over.

What gives the oil its lubricating capacity is not its viscosity, but its film strength. Using a higher viscosity oil than recommended will achieve 2 things:

1. It will starve the top of the engine of oil during cold start ups, as the oil pump has a harder time pushing thicker oil.

2. It will slightly hurt your gas mileage, as the oil pump takes more power from the engine.

On a high mileage engine, it's a must to start using synthetic oil, not because it's thicker, but because it has higher film strength than conventional oil, and it's more consistent (because while with conventional oil you're limited to what the crude you're distilling can give you in terms of chemical makeup, synthetic oil is engineered to reach a given specification). On very high mileage engines, it may be advisable to use a good quality oil additive (Lucas is OK, but I prefer better stuff, like Z-Max, ProLong or Slick50), to give the oil a boost in lubricity and film strength.