MX-3.com

Just to let everybody know... I did use the search feature before posting this but I couldn't quite match the problem to what I am having.

With that out of the way.

95 MX-3, rear defrost light does not come on... There seems to be power to both of the metal contacts however unlike my mx-3, her third brake light does work, her chimes work when lights/key is left in the ignition, however there is not a click when the defrost is kicked on, nor does the light lite up above the key hole.

(I know this because somebody had unplugged the wire set from the fuse box on my kick plate and when I plugged it back in, I got my dingers back, my key hole light back, and my defrost works.)

Any ideas???

This post makes very little sense, and my head kinda hurts now. Thanks...

Rephrase?

there is a little bulb that is that light. It does burn out. good luck finding a good one.

Check the fuse, and the relay does sometimes melt itself. use online manuals to locate relay.

Ryan wrote:there is a little bulb that is that light. It does burn out. good luck finding a good one.

Check the fuse, and the relay does sometimes melt itself. use online manuals to locate relay.

is it a bulb or LED?

not LED. I've pulled it out before. tiniest little bulb ever, has a red condom on it.

Ryan wrote:not LED. I've pulled it out before. tiniest little bulb ever, has a red condom on it.

Yes, don't want that bulb to have unprotected sex. Otherwise you'll have many little bulbs.

Use a multimeter to check power at the rear window. You should hear a click when you press the button. If not, the relay may be bad. Bad relay wouldn't light the switch up either. Get a new relay from the junkyard and put it in, couldn't hurt. Don't know how the ignition light would be related...

I'll make sure that my posts come with a complementary bottle of aspirin for the ones who need it.

As far as my interior lights... I swapped out (dumb me) the btn 40 amp fuse for her defog 40 amp fuse. The defog must have fried that fuse because when I switched them back to their normal homes I got nothing. Has anybody had any luck buying those fuses anywhere besides the stealership?

As far as the checking of the relay, that will probably be my next task, I was looking through that electrical manual (conveniently for a 95) and found the steps on how to do that. Does anybody know how to tell if those fuses are blown? I couldn't see a difference until I realize that neither one of my 40A fuses work now

jkbreazeale wrote: Does anybody know how to tell if those fuses are blown? I couldn't see a difference until I realize that neither one of my 40A fuses work now

Use a multi-meter and test for continuity between the two terminals.

you might find the bulb itself at a hobby shop. "grain of wheat" bulb or some such. Used in model trains. Be sure to get a 12v one. Then you can put it on the original base.

Those fuses are available at any local auto parts store, may cost like 4 or 5 bucks...but everything's cheaper at the junkyard!

jmdearras wrote:you might find the bulb itself at a hobby shop. "grain of wheat" bulb or some such. Used in model trains. Be sure to get a 12v one. Then you can put it on the original base.

or use Wagner bulb #2723
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... =FR35-2723

it is meant for automotive applications and can be gotten at any federal mogul dealer(uni-select, advance auto.....)

OK, so with the help from everybody on the forum, I was able to fix the rear defrost. The relay had burned out (literally) so I put a new relay. Now my next question is... why did it burn out? It had this black bubble on two of the four prongs, the wire ends were burnt all to hell, so... what can I do to prevent this from happening again?

Somewhere in the depths of the forum there was a permanent solution... I just don't want to look for it.