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im going to a pickapart this weekend to hopefully grab a klde for my 92 gs. im just wondering if anyone knows of any guides with pictures for removal of the engine? i have a haynes manual but it doesnt have any pictures for engine removal (just a label of where everything is), and all the guides online i have found are the same. http://www.mx-3.com/swap/ze-swap.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

anyone know of what kind of problems i may run into?
is it pretty self explanatory?
should i just start disconnecting stuff until it comes free?
do i need to remove the tranny with the engine?
what kind of tools will i need?
do i need to worry about labelling anything on the motor or taking any old wires or parts?
how long do you think it should take for someone who doesnt know what there doing? i plan on printing out the guide aswell as my manual.i know how to use tools and im also fairly good at figuring out how things work so assuming this is pretty straight forward i can hopefully figure it out.

i havnt done much work on cars in the past so im kind of worried about the process. i dont want to get stuck on something or damage the motor. solo-ryder is going to help me swap the engine out of my car so im set for that but hes away this weekend and its the only time i have access to a vehicle large enough to transport the engine.

Um, my experience with these...

take out all of the intake, the battery tray, and disconnect everything. On that side.

take off both wheels and crack the axle nuts off. Take the struts off, and pull the axles out of the hubs.

get under and get the shift linkage off, and pop out the axles (bring a 1'ish prybar) may as well drop the crossmember and all bolts in it at the same time, takes care of two mounts.

remove all other things connecting the car to the motor. Just detatch the PS pump and AC compressor from the motor.

Thats all I can think of. Only hard part is axle nuts. Need a buddy to stomp the brakes. Although... hehe, if you don't need the hubs, smack out the wheel studs, and hammer them in backwards, and that will stall the hub. That way you can do it solo.

detatch the tranny, if you don't want it, later, when the motor is out.

ok i think ive got a pretty good ideal now. im just gonna google pics of all the parts i dont know so ill know what to look for. by hamering in the wheel studs it essentially locks the wheel bearing so the bolt can turn without spinning the hub correct?

if i can figure it out i might add some pics to that guide and make it a bit easier for beginners to figure out.

No, wheel studs are pressed into the wheel bearing. They can be hammered out. Pop it out, and hammer it back in the wrong direction, from the outside. It will jam against the hub, and lock the bearing, so the axle won't spin, but the nut will.

Ryan wrote:No, wheel studs are pressed into the wheel bearing. They can be hammered out. Pop it out, and hammer it back in the wrong direction, from the outside. It will jam against the hub, and lock the bearing, so the axle won't spin, but the nut will.

Not sure I'm understanding this...

Or just undo the suspension stuff from beneath, then from the top and slide the whole driveshaft out without having to root about with axel nuts. I just took my whole strut/wheel hub/brake/driveshaft assembly out in one hit last swap.

You will need a fair amount of time and some good powerful tools. Rusted/Stubborn bolts are the main time consuming thing.

This is just a google image:


This is what the stud looks like


See the bolt-type things? they will hammer out. take it out, and then insert them the wrong way, so the bolt faces INTO the car. when you try and spin the bearing, the stud will interfere with the hub and jam, stopping the bearing from spinning, letting you take off the nut solo.

Removing all the suspension would leave you taking off the steering knuckle, stab links, ball joint. None of these like coming off, as they simply spin in their bores. Usually need torched or ground off.

Only do the stud thing in a junk yard, when you don't need the spindle/bearing, as it wrecks a lot of s---.

You need a 32mm or 1 1/4 socket, and a heavy duty bar/ratchet, and about a 1'-2' extension.

How about having a big a-- pipe wrench clamped onto one stud and the other end sits on the ground, preventing the hub from spinning, and then you try to twist the nut off?

Bring a BIG power bar and a 5' pipe extension and hopefully you'll get the wheel nuts off. Spray the shifter linkage first and let it sit then use a C clamp to force the bolts out. Remove the trans with the engine, it's easier than disconnecting it on the car. Finally replace all belts and hoses including the fuel filter before installing the DE.

Pipe wrench would work too, but I didn't have one of those along. I wasn't trying to argue or try and have a 'one up' confrontation, it was simply a suggestion.

Pipe Wrench????? This isn't the 'Red Green' school of back yard mechanics. If he doesn't have a wrench and socket to get the axel nuts off he might as well give up. Pipe wrench. Next thing you know Ryan will be suggesting a chain saw to remove the struts. LOL Hill Billy prairie Red Neck.

Heh, this thread was good for a laugh.

Anyways, he got a lowish mile k8 out by himself (no tranny or anything hooked up courtesy of me) so I think he's good for now

hold on guys, I will post something later!

Daninski wrote:Pipe Wrench????? This isn't the 'Red Green' school of back yard mechanics. If he doesn't have a wrench and socket to get the axel nuts off he might as well give up. Pipe wrench. Next thing you know Ryan will be suggesting a chain saw to remove the struts. LOL Hill Billy prairie Red Neck.

Hey I saw a guy remove a motor with a hacksaw once, he just cut through the mounts.

K guys I'm replacing my driver's side driveshaft right now and I can't get the friggin axle out of the tranny, even with a pry bar! How did you guys do it??? The axle nut was no problem for me but this is a dilema! It's not good to yank it right? I imagine that's too much stress on the joints. Help?