MX-3.com

So, I just went on a trip (to pick up my rims about 250 miles away) and ever since I got back, two days ago, my beloved mx3 has been doing something odd. When it reaches optimum operating temperature, it still keeps its revs up to 1500RPMS in neutral, I put it in gear, and leave the clutch pedal pressed, and it jumps to 2500RPMS without my foot on the gas pedal. What could be the cause this problem? thanks in advance

It sounds like a bad IAC. Also check the gas pedal cable and linkage at the throttle body and inside the car - it could be getting stuck. Check coolant level - reservoir is full and if you open the filler cap at the front of the engine the level should be up at or near the top of the filler neck.

davmac wrote:It sounds like a bad IAC. Also check the gas pedal cable and linkage at the throttle body and inside the car - it could be getting stuck. Check coolant level - reservoir is full and if you open the filler cap at the front of the engine the level should be up at or near the top of the filler neck.

I checked for clogs and nothing, but I did clean it. the cable is fine, and the reservoir is also fine. another symptom started too. Look at the video below

I can't embed videos, so this is the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m704pzXVN9I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ok, an update on the problem.

I checked it this morning and the car seemed fine, up until it got to normal operating temperature. The weird high idle came on and off and I noticed something. When the car is at normal idle revs, the check engine light comes on when the gas pedal is depressed, and turns off as soon as I press it. I let go, and it comes on again. Yet, when the car is reving high, the light won't come on regardless of whether it is pressed or not. What could be the cause?

You should've just checked your codes before you posted, do that and post what codes you get.

I know if you ask how to check the codes or what the codes mean, people will just tell you to "search". Well I figured it wouldn't hurt to tell you up front so that there are more results in that "search" function.

To check codes, just use a paper clip to jump/bridge GRND and 10 in your Diagnosis box under the hood on the driver side. Once the clip is in, turn your car on (DON'T start it), and watch as the check engine light dissapears. It will then flash your code. Long flashes = 10, short flashes = 1. Just add it up and that's your code. (example: Long short short short short short short would mean code 16, which would mean your problem is EGR related.)

sounds like a vacuum leak.

Its GND and TEN. (Test ENgine) 10 is an arabic numeral, with no place in our bay except when it represents the metric size of some bolts.

Haha. Sorry. Smartass moment.

On the same topic, why don't they stamp the size of a bolt on the head of it?

Could be a vaccuum leak, or a distributor problem. Pray for vaccuum.

Okay, I will check the code as soon as i get off work. Interestingly the problem went away on its own. It did it in the morning, I pulled over, restarted the car, and didn't happen again since. Maybe the car mends itself. lol

Maybe you got yourself one of those transformer cars since it healed on its own.

Ryan wrote:Its GND and TEN. (Test ENgine) 10 is an arabic numeral, with no place in our bay except when it represents the metric size of some bolts.

Haha. Sorry. Smartass moment.

On the same topic, why don't they stamp the size of a bolt on the head of it?

Could be a vaccuum leak, or a distributor problem. Pray for vaccuum.

Hahaha. Yeah I knew it was something around what I posted . GND and TEN. And IDK why bolts don't have their head hex size on them. Someone should start a line lol.

Ok. The check engine light turns on after 5 mins or so of driving on the freeway. I checked the code, and it is code five (unless the very first one when i turned the car on counts, then it would be 15, which would be the oxygen sensor. However, if it is five, it doesn't appear on my list/.

It most likely is the oxygen sensor. The code will repeat itself, which means, when you initially turn it on, let it do the code, then it'll pause, then repeat the code. If it is 1 long and 5 short, then it is the o2 sensor.

when the cel light comes on, try dropping it down a gear and running the car at high rpm's around 4-4500 or so and see if the CEL turns off.

I don't know if this works for the K series, but in the B6, it'll shut off.
if you replace the o2's, I would suggest only using denso.
I have bosch in my ZE which works fine, but in my B6 and in my friend's B6, we've tried bosch, another aftermarket one, and the only sensor that works is Denso.
It could be just the B6DE being picky though.

Ok, so I checked again, and waited for it to repeat the code, only it gave me another code, and then another. After that it repeated them. The codes it gave me were 5, 12, 16. Ah!