Take a marker of some sort and make a line across each gear and the belt, so you can line them up later when you put it back on.
Have you done the tbelt recently? If its original, I'd replace it... thats alot of K.
I have owned and swapped in that motor once, and out twice... so I'll give you whatever of a walkthrough I can think of...
Start the car and unplug the fuel pump (clip beneath rear seat)
Take off the neg battery terminal. Drain the coolant (bigish phillips passenger side of rad)
Its your call if you want to take the intake manifold off, if you can do it, then do, but I think its a royal pain so I just leave it on. IF you take it off, you need a new gasket most likely. If you leave it on, you need to take off all coolant lines, all vac lines...
Take off the exhaust manifold. You'll need a new gasket.
loosen the alternator and PS pump. The belts should just come off.
Take off the passenger side wheel and splash sheild around the wheel well.
Remove the timing belt cover. The top portion comes off, and beneath it is one more bolt for the bottom section. Remove the waterpump pully. Its kinda hard, you need a ratchet and a wrench (both 10mm) put the closed end of the wrench around one bolt, and loosen another with the ratchet. When 2 are loose, put the open end of the wrench on a loose bolt, and hold it against another while you loosen the last bolt, like a lever.
(Or I suppose you could loosen them when the belt is tight around alternator and crank to provide resistance, thats probably a better idea)
Crank should have enough resistance that you can just unbolt it. You don't need to remove that big bolt. The pully and spacers should just come off now.
Loosen the tensioner bolt. The T belt should slip off now.
Make sure what you left on the head isn't attatched to the car in any way. (throttle cable, hoses, electrical clips, ground wires, fuel hoses (mark which is which, lots of guys mess that up and the car won't start)...)
You can now remove the head. Remove the valvecover. Using a 12mm 12 point socket, release each bolt by turning it maybe 1/4 turn. Do this in the order specified in the manual. Remove them gradually, 1/4 turn at a time untill all are loose. In the front drivers side, at the bottom of the head, you'll see a little ledge between the head and block. Stick a big prybar in there and crack them apart. Take it out.
Clean both the head surface and the block surface well. The two(I think) alignment pins come out. I used carb cleaner and a long utility knife blade.
Make sure NOT to round out any edges, especially the cylinders. All edges must remain at 90ยบ.
a scuff pad like scotch brite works well as a finishing touch. Make sure not to drop anything down into the cyls, espically anything metal. Blow them out with pressureized air if you can before you reassemble.
Nows a good time to do the waterpump if you're going to do that as well.
Assembly is reverse... remeber to lightly oil the bolt threads and seat faces or they won't be torque properly.
Its here in the manual too, but without words.
Getting the T belt off -
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... B1-012.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; plus the next few pages have notes...
I don't recall if you need to remove the big bolt to get the belt entirely off. I guess you can leave it hanging too if you're not replacing it.
The head gasket page -
http://www.mx-3.com/manuals/showimg.php ... B1-016.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - plus the next few pages
Thats it, the picture to my words.