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Can anybody give me an estimated time needed to remove everything necessary for the removal of the gearbox. So that is right up to the bolts of the box itself against the engine..
I need a new clutch, but every garage here estimates like 1,5 days work. If i can remove everything and let them remove the box itself and the driveshafts, maybe i can shorten that time..

Ow and mine has airco, do i need to disconnect that too?

Its the same as any other car, you just need to make sure you know what you are doing, remember that the fluwheel needs to be removed and resurfaced, you need to inspct the shaft seals and possibly change the main seal. Minimum it would take me is around 10 hrs to do it, some people do it faster, it all depends on you. I would say ;et the shops handle it and get a rental car for a few days, or a back up car.

hgallegos915 wrote:Its the same as any other car, you just need to make sure you know what you are doing, remember that the fluwheel needs to be removed and resurfaced, you need to inspct the shaft seals and possibly change the main seal. Minimum it would take me is around 10 hrs to do it, some people do it faster, it all depends on you. I would say ;et the shops handle it and get a rental car for a few days, or a back up car.

Its not the time i'll be missing the car i'm worried about. Its the fact that 10 hours of labour costs me about $650.. Let alone buying the new clutch.. And i meant taking everything BUT the gearbox itself. I'll leave that and the removal of the shafts to the shop.
I meant taking out the battery, air intake and so on..

Changing a clutch is one of the most straight forward jobs possible. I am assuming you have very little experience working on cars because of the question you asked. With the right tools and alot of patience changing a clutch is not a complicated job. The hard part is accessing the clutch. Once you have the tranny out, its as simple as unbolting the clutch assembly, sliding the alignment tool into the pilot bearing on the flywheel and bolting the next clutch assembly back to the flywheel. If you have a decent set of tools and a free weekend I suggest trying to do the job yourself. The only scary part is the you will need to support the motor because you will have to remove 3 of the 4 motor mounts to remove the tranny. If this is something you would consider. I suggest going on to probetalk.com because there is a "how to" change your clutch thread. If i remember correctly it has everything listed step by step with pictures.

Nate

1.5 days is BS.

I just pulled the entire motor, changed the tranny over to another motor, and re-mounted the whole deal in ~5 hours. With a Mazda tech...

Dropping just the tranny is much simpler, never 1.5 days. Morons.

Many Garages/Dealers go by THE BOOK when doing mechanical work. To give you an example, to do the timing belt in my car THE BOOK says 6 hrs labour, in reality my mazda mechanic does it in 2.5 hours. The garage will still charge you the 6 hours labour.

It does seem sinful when your paying $75 an hour and the mechanic isnt even working on your car

Story - once our senior tech was given the job of replacing the signal arm. job says 2 hours. took him literally 2 minutes.

I bet someone paid a good 150 for that.

Ryan wrote:1.5 days is BS.

I just pulled the entire motor, changed the tranny over to another motor, and re-mounted the whole deal in ~5 hours. With a Mazda tech...

Dropping just the tranny is much simpler, never 1.5 days. Morons.

me and my buddy dropped in 440 in one of his Chargers in less than half a day

440 in a Charger, man you must be almost as old as me.

Answer is, any of the parts you need to take off to do the clutch makes the car undrivable so you can't pull anything of any significance without having to trailer the car to the garage. Jack the car, pull the axes, disconnect the shifter linkage (rust makes this a pain). Disconnect clutch line. Start unbolting stuff from the tranny. Unbolt then remove tranny. Swap clutch and do reverse of what you just did for install. Enjoy the Pride of doing it yourself and saving hundreds of dollars. Apply oinment and bandages to all your skinned knuckels.

Daninski wrote:440 in a Charger, man you must be almost as old as me.

Nope, just have passion for cool cars.

Can't argue with that. Used a Mallory dual point double life disty with a 40,000 volt coil on my 69 B+B 340 Swinger. 4 56 gears, Borg and Beck racing clutch. Worked nice. Could hold the back end sideways through all four gears. Did a burn out outside the theater after watching American Graffiti. Opps sorry, hijacked post, my appologies.

440 charger probably has more room than a gs under the hood. Another big BOOK scam is the rear struts, it s a joke, you dont even need a spring compressor. The only trick is carefully bending the brake line a bit.