MX-3.com

Just recently I bought a new deck, 4 kicker ks 5250 speakers, a kicker 300.1 amp, and 2 12" kicker comp subs. The guy in the store said my car will be fine, but I am recently having doubts about this. I get them installed this weekend so I was hoping I could get some answers quick.

I have a new alternator but it just a regular duty one, so I am not planning on getting another new one. Im afraid if I just get a bigger battery it will just last me a little longer but still die, and I really don't want this to happen. I was wondering if I should get capacitor and if it will help that much? Because lots of people are telling me that they don't really do much if your car is having major problems with the energy.

So please help me out guys, what should I do, get a capacitor? get a refund for the soundsystem? or just keep it and will it work fine?

Thanks in advance

you shouldn't have any problems running that small amp with a factory alt and battery. I run 4000 watts rms in my car with a stock alt and one extra battery.

All a cap does is even out the draw on the electical system. Doesn't increase your electical output or input. It just smoothes it over a bit.

I'm running 560 RMS, no issues at all, even on my SOHC.

You're only using a 300RMS for 2 12's? I'm using a 500 for 2 8's... lol.

As previously stated, both are very true. I run 2 12" type R's and 3 amps. Clarion amps are run Mono (500W RMS) per sub, and the third is stereo (at 200W RMS) for rears, doors and tweets. Component speakers are BOSE. My lights dimmed pretty bad when the fan or AC was on, but with the addition of a cap it helped. I should have run a second battery, and did end up killing one alt. but with the cap it made all the different. Base hits harder, cleaner, and guage and headlights don't dim as much at idle.

It also totally depends on the class of amp.

If it's a class A/B amp, it'll use a lot more power to deliver the same wattage than a "digital" class-D/T amp.

Normally class A/B amps are only used for driving mids and tweeters, and they're rare above 150W rms/ch. Most sub amps are class-D.

Also, the load depends mainly on how you use the system, not the numbers on the box. Idling, all of your equipment combined probably draws less than 10 amps. Which is nothing for the stock electrical system.

When playing loud bass-heavy music, that draw might peak out at 40-50 amps, which is nothing for the battery (starter draws 150), but will drain it quickly without the engine running (probably 30 minutes to an hour).

The alternator should reliably deliver between 70-110 amps. While running all accessories (rear defroster, lights, blower motor, cooling fan, engine electronics, etc) you're probably drawing about 50 amps. So add peaks of 40-50, and you're still not far off the max alternator output.

In other words, I wouldn't worry about it.

Wow nightfire, thanks a lot for all that input and right now I am a little less worried for the install this Saturday. I will tell you how it goes. But thanks for all that info!

95Mx3GS wrote:Wow nightfire, thanks a lot for all that input and right now I am a little less worried for the install this Saturday. I will tell you how it goes. But thanks for all that info!

Good luck. Nothin beats rollin around with a kickin sound system.

Hey guys, just posting this if anyone wanted to know how my install went. it was awesome, and now my car sounds great and the bass is kicking! thanks for everyones help!

Congrats.. One thing down... 200 to go..

Suspension? Brakes? Engine? Wheels n'tires!

Already got new tires, shocks, brakes, distributor, exhaust system and muffler, a couple small engine upgrades, and now soundsystem!

Ah, very nice.

CarolinaCartel wrote:you shouldn't have any problems running that small amp with a factory alt and battery. I run 4000 watts rms in my car with a stock alt and one extra battery.

damn! i knew it was only a matter of tiem before i crossed paths with you on a mazda based site!

i was wondering what you where doing alternator wise.


NEUMAN