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The GS I test drove is having problems with stalling, and rough idling.

After starting it up with the engine hot it will idle very low and the CEL will come on. If I give it some gas and take my foot off the gas, it will stall, every time.

I'm not sure if it will do this on a cold engine, but it definitely does it when hot.

They said the air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs had been replaced.

What could be wrong?

Thats strange.

I believe that sounds like an electrical problem. I couldn't tell you exactly, but look for the usual things. Cracked disty, intake leaks... does it blow smoke?

sounds like mine, i have to tap the gas quickly to prevent it from plummeting into a stall. mine idles at around 100 too. mine is different in that it wont do it so much or as badly when its warm out or if its been running for a while, but when its cold as balls out, uhg. my record is around 20 stalls in a ten minute drive, mostly just sitting at a light....

i would love to know whats going on sounds like we have kinda the same problem.

Dragyn - Mine is doing the exact same thing as yours. Actually I came here trying to find a solution to it.

In the summer/fall it idles really low and feels/sounds like it might stall out, but in this winter (especially in Toronto) it just completely dies. I just came in from driving it maybe 15 minutes and it stalled all over the place.

when I first bought my car it would want to stall everywhere, and the main problem was bad compression because of wrecked valves and an incorrectly set idle.

Have you guys messed with the idle screws yet? The idle is just a little passageway, opened or closed by a screw, and with all the oily crap that build up the hole gets smaller and smaller... so you need to open her up a little, let her breath.

Did you try jumping TEN and grd and setting the idle screw? Additionally plugged cats can cause issues like this. Can you pull any codes?

That could be the IAC valve (idle air controller). Been coming up a lot lately so why not.

When the engine is idling, try turning on a large electrical load light the blower motor or rear defroster. Do the RPMs increase or decrease?

If they decrease, IAC is shot. They're pretty cheap ($50-100).

If they increase, it's not that .. something else.

mine stay solid, err as solid as they can be and when she decides not to hate me.

Mine just started doing the same thing. It has been getting much worse over the last few days. It just stared showing a 17 code which is the oxygen sensor although it looks like a 15 code is an actual oxygen sensor circuit problem so I wonder if a 17 just indicates the system is out of it's operating limits.
Is there a way to check the sensor without replacing it? Does it go into a default mode if you just unplug it?

My problem was cracks in the flexible intake line just behind the mass air flow sensor. Anyone know where to get a new one?

Best bet is to try calling a Mazda dealer in your area. It'll probably be expensive though.

You could try a used one from a junkyard, but might end up with the same problem.

Your best bet (if you have the time) may be just to do a new aftermarket cold-air intake. Our stock air filters are ridiculously overpriced anyway.

you should just buy an aftermarket cold air intake or what i did when it happend to me is i just put some electrical tape nice and tight on the flexible intake

i found my issue, turned the idle air screw ontop of the throttle body out(up, counter clockwise) about 2 3/4 turns.
i havent stalled out since then. my clutch loves me again!