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I have a 92 v6 mx-3. A few months ago I swapped out the auto to 5spd. I have done the ingnition mod swap. Well heres the problem. Everytime I hammer on this car it will just shut off and I have to wait a few minutes to restart. I thought it was the ignition mod but it never did this when it was auto. I have a trouble code 46 but I have no idea what that is. Does anyone know what 46 is? And when I put the 5spd in all I did was bypass the clutch safety switch and never hooked up the reverse lights. Does that cause a problem?? Ok any help would be awesome. Thanks

Code 46 is VRIS #2 solenoid according to my list

OldMan

Ok so its VRIS #2. But what exactly is that?? And how do I fix it?? More help please.

Can anyone help me fix this. And is this why my car stalls??

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The VRIS-2 solenoid is supposed to alter the intake manifold configuration at a certain RPM (4250 RPM for K8).

MazdaMan85 wrote:I have a 92 v6 mx-3. A few months ago I swapped out the auto to 5spd. I have done the ingnition mod swap. Well heres the problem. Everytime I hammer on this car it will just shut off and I have to wait a few minutes to restart. I thought it was the ignition mod but it never did this when it was auto. I have a trouble code 46 but I have no idea what that is. Does anyone know what 46 is? And when I put the 5spd in all I did was bypass the clutch safety switch and never hooked up the reverse lights. Does that cause a problem?? Ok any help would be awesome. Thanks

Sounds like it might be a fuel delivery problem.. maybe the pressure is too low. Do you have a pressure gauge?

Well the code 46 is gone after messing around with the wires and stuff back there. But it still cuts off when its hot and I push it. I once in a while get code 25 which is pressure regulator solenoid vavle and don't know why it would make a difference now. I always got that with the auto and it never quit on me. But now it does. I have a feeling it is the internal coil overheating or breaking down when it gets hot. I have done the external ingnition module already. I hope I can get this fixed because this is the only thing stoping me car now. HELP

MazdaMan85 wrote:Well the code 46 is gone after messing around with the wires and stuff back there. But it still cuts off when its hot and I push it. I once in a while get code 25 which is pressure regulator solenoid vavle and don't know why it would make a difference now. I always got that with the auto and it never quit on me. But now it does. I have a feeling it is the internal coil overheating or breaking down when it gets hot. I have done the external ingnition module already. I hope I can get this fixed because this is the only thing stoping me car now. HELP

Accccctually.... the PRC valve causes the regulator to increase fuel pressure, so if that fails and the valve is stuck closed, maybe it can't flow enough fuel to handle WOT...

You could try running a vacuum line from the FPR straight back to a vacuum source bypassing the valve and see if that helps.

Oh that could be it. So where is a good vacuum source to use? And does anyone think it still could be the coil? These codes never show while driving. It stalls and then the codes show up and when I restart the car the cel never flashes. I'm going to check the coil and stuff later. Thanks so far for the help.

MazdaMan85 wrote:Oh that could be it. So where is a good vacuum source to use? And does anyone think it still could be the coil? These codes never show while driving. It stalls and then the codes show up and when I restart the car the cel never flashes. I'm going to check the coil and stuff later. Thanks so far for the help.

When you say coil do you mean the distributor? I suppose it could be that, but that should cause hesitation and misfiring as well if that's the case. And I don't think the engine would heat quickly enough just under WOT to make any noticeable difference there.

For a vacuum source, you could unplug the line the runs from the driver's side of the manifold to the solenoid on the air housing (if I remember correctly). I vaguely recall it being used for both the PRC and the EGR valves, but having an open EGR won't matter for this test.

*edit*

You know I was thinking .. maybe the reason you're noticing this behavior now (assuming nothing else has changed) is because the manual transmission is putting more of a torque load on the engine. Auto's will shift down gears under high load whereas manuals won't, and maybe that difference was enough to bog down the engine into stalling.

Do you hear any pinging at WOT?

I would think if it's a fuel pressure issue as soon as he backs off on the throttle the engine should resume normal operation. Just after starting your car but before it's warmed up try "hammering" on the throttle and see if it cuts out. As far as I know the ignition coil only cuts out when it's hot. As far as the coil goes did you totally disconnect the internal one? If not that could be an issue. Can anyone explain why, I can't remember?

Ok I'm going to explain a little bit more about whats going on. If I start my car I can red line it as much as I want and I can go how ever fast I want with no issues. I feel the boost of power at around 4,250 rpm's. So I know the VRIS 2 is working. The thing I don't know is why it stalls after heating up. I don't have the external coil yet. I only have done the ignition module. I want to put the external coil on soon. I only get trouble codes when it quits. So maybe when it quits the fuel pressure drops and the ecm thinks thats the problem?? Once I do the coil I can then start eliminating things.

sounds to me like classic disty/ignition coil problem. a car works for while, gets hot, shuts down, cools off, starts up -- 90% a new distributor solves it. just to be clear, you DO have to wait awhile before she'll start up again right?

given you have the HEI mod done, that adds some suspicion, still nonetheles, i think thats the place to start. you should see if you can borrow a known working one.

and nobody's asked yet if you checked for spark when it won't start. if no spark, then there's your answer

Thats what I thought because when it shuts off I can't start it for about 30 seconds to a minute. It will fire but not start. I'll have to rewire everything sometime.

Finally got it fixed. I rewired everything and added the external coil. I had it up to 120 and no problems. Thanks mx3ers.