Who needs power steering when you can have manual.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Don't loop the lines. You'll hate it. I would never recommend looping the lines.

You need to keep fluid in the power rack for lubrication.

[hppwdn]

I made sure there was still fluid in mine when I looped them, but it was still pretty crappy. I did drive it for a year that way, but it was very unpleasant. Especially now that I know how easy it is swapping in the manual 323 rack.

[fowljesse]

That is great to know!

[Volones]

So now that you've completed your project, and many of us are excited to do this also.....how much time & money would you estimate you spent to do this? I'm not asking for to-the-penny/minute, but just a ball-park estimate to within the hour/hundred dollars or so. I would like to do this to my RS for the fuel economy benefit, and steering capability with the engine off, but don't have a great deal of $$, so any idea would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Vol

[hppwdn]

I found the manual rack on ebay for $180 shipped. It was a new/remanufactured rack. That price included a $50 core charge. The rack came with new inner tie rods. I also bought new tie rods ends which I picked up the pair for $20. So about $200 invested for the whole project plus getting an alignment when you're done. If you remove your PS pump you'll also have to buy the shorter belt which should run $10-20 (Dayco Part # 5040295, 4 rib 29.5" belt).

The time invested will vary. I already had all my PS pump etc removed when I started.

To remove all the PS pump/reservoir crap I would estimate 2 hours at a medium pace.

Removing the subframe, replacing the rack and reinstalling the subframe would be a generous 6 hours by yourself. With a helper that could be cut in half. My car is turbo'd, it's probably even faster on all motor cars. A lot less crap in the way.

I think the whole thing could easily be accomplished in a single day with two knowledgeable people working.


I'll even attempt a brief how to for removal of the subframe (this is assuming you've already removed/disocnnected the PS pump from the rack):

Step 01) Jack up the car, take the wheels off
Step 02) Remove ball joints from Lower Control Arms (one 17mm bolt and nut and one 17mm nut)
Step 03) Remove tie rod ends from hub (one 17mm nut)
Step 04) Drop exhaust y-pipe (downpipe if you're turbo)
Step 05) Disconnect shifter linkage and stabilizer bar from transmission (should be one 14mm nut for stabilizer bar and a 12mm nut/thru bolt for the shifter linkage)
Step 06) Go inside the car under the dash and remove the black plate covering where your steering goes thru the firewall (a bunch of 10mm nuts)
Step 07) Also under the dash, disconnect the steering knuckle from the rack. (one 12mm bolt)
Step 08) Remove rear motor mount. (two 14mm bolts attach the assembly to the transmission)
Step 09) Remove outer bolt near rear lca bushing. There's three bolts there. One side of the LCA has 2 bolts and the other side only has 1. Remove the bolt from the side with only 1 bolt. (17mm bolt)
Step 10) Remove the long bolt on the other side of that LCA bushing. There's three bolts in a little trianlge there. Two for the LCA and one other. Remove the "other" one. (17mm bolt)
Step 11) Remove the nut holding the subframe to the frame (17mm) This one looks like it's hard to get to, but it's not. There's a hole in the LCA that will allow you to put your socket and extension all the way up to it. You'll need a deep socket and breaker bar to get this loose.
Step 12) The subframe should be loose now. Guide it down gently. Using a jack may help. It's pretty heavy.
Step 13) Swap out the racks on the subframe. The rack is held on with four 14mm nuts.
Step 14) Put it all back together. In the famous words from the Haynes Manual "Installation is reverse of removal"

Quick tip: When reconnecting the steering knuckle in the car loosen the upper part as well so the shaft in the car can move up and down. And make sure your steeering wheel is straight when the rack is in the middle position.

Congratulations. Your first trip should be to get an alignment. And then it's smooth sailing with your new manual rack.

[mazdamx3freak]

what rack bushings did u use? also think egt poly ones might work. Yeah when i depowered my rack i just gutted my pump but a shorter belt would be more alot better when u used a shorter belt and u wouldnt have a part # would u? good work ive been scared to try it, i will be swapping very soon.

[hppwdn]

what rack bushings did u use? also think egt poly ones might work. Yeah when i depowered my rack i just gutted my pump but a shorter belt would be more alot better when u used a shorter belt and u wouldnt have a part # would u? good work ive been scared to try it, i will be swapping very soon.

Rack bushings? Are you referring to the rubber between the rack and what bolts it to the subfrrame? I just used stock ones for that. Everywhere else I have all the SRD blue nylatron ones.

I'm pretty sure the belt was a 28.5 inch belt. When I get back into town I'll look in my toolbox to check. I saved the packaging for when I need a new one.

[hotsiit]

Hey, quick question, does it matter what year 323 manual rack to get? example 1986-1989 versus 1990-1994? They are all the same price on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RACK-PIN ... 18Q2el1247
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RACK-PIN ... 18Q2el1247
link one should be 86-89, link two 90-94
Looks like I will be getting one very soon

[Volones]

hppwnd,
Thanks for such a great write up, and being so generous with your time in answering all our questions!
I know I really appreciate the detail you gave and the time and thought you obviously put into this, and I'm sure a lot of other people do also.

Vol!

[nerd racing]

Another thing that you might want to look into is using a rack from an aspire with the stock MX3 tie rods. They are 3 turns lock to lock and are on EVERY single 3 door aspire, and all 5 door manual aspires. I believe they are lighter than the 323 rack as well. I've driven thousands of miles using one of those on the various aspires I have owned and haven't had any problems at all.

[mazdamx3freak]

you will need the 90-94 323 hatch manual rack part# 6885 at auto dealers. Also a small belt or just gut your ps pump itself. ^ not to sure about the aspire rack but the 323 rack weights 15lbs compaired to the mx3 20lbs. - another 11lbs for the ps pump itself

[hppwdn]

Here's a link the rack I bought. It was from a 90-94 323. The part number for mine was 9610

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 22348&rd=1

[mazdamx3freak]

did u ever find the part# for the belt?

[hppwdn]

I've been out of town for awhile. I'll be back tomorrow. I can get the part number then.

[hotsiit]

Thank you hppwdn Ordering one up today