Wagner Brake pad problem?

[Icedawg]

I got a set of Wagner pads for the front calipers on my V6 1994 MX-3. The rotors are new, replacing old warped rotors.
I can't install the pads! (Rotors were easy) Can anyone help with some advice?
I squeezed the piston in to make room, and there is at least 1/4 inch free with the new pad in on the caliper side. But the pad on the outside won't quite go in. It starts, then binds. The only way to get it in is with a hammer, and that pushes the rotor out of alignment so it rubs on the support for the pad on the piston side. It is also too twisted to rotate anyhow, and bound too tight to rotate.
The Wagner pads have a raised surface on the steel backing that is not there on the ones I am replacing (source unknown on those), making them a touch thicker. My suspicion is that they are out of spec and built wrong. When I opened the package it was clear they had been returned to the store once already.
I have done many brake changes on my 84 RX7, but the caliper design is free floating and quite different. I guess it is possible I am doing something wrong, since this the first time on the MX-3. But after pushing back the piston I can not see any other way to adjust the gap on the outside, everything on that side is fixed by the bolts that hold the caliper together and to the hub. I have been very careful to be sure the rotors are properly seated. Reading the on-line shop manual did not indicate any special tricks I was missing.

If any one really wants to give me an expose, perhaps you could explain how this caliper design even works. It is clear how the piston moves the inside pad. But everything else seems fixed in place. The caliper is fixed by the mounting bolts, and the rotor is fixed by the bolts that hold on the wheel. So it seems like the outside pad would only apply pressure if the inside pad pushes the rotors out in the pad region in order to press against the outside pad. But that would cause rotor warpage and uneven pad wear, and be rather inefficient.

[umcamara]

As you said, the car uses a "free-floating" caliper, as opposed to a double-piston caliper. The point is that the caliper is supposed to float on two of those four bolts. When the piston reaches the pad on the one side, the caliper has no choice but to be pulled towards the car, and this forces the outer pad onto the rotor as well.

What usually happens is the slider bolts (pins) that the caliper slides on get seized up. You should be able to actually move the caliper by pushing it in or out. (Takes some force) In your case, you probably can't move them. Remove the two slide bolts. There are long rubber sleeves in the holes in the calipers where the bolts were. The bolts will be difficult to remove from inside the caliper. A good method is to use a 3/8" ratchet extension, the square end will fit perfectly in the hole, then you can hammer the bolt out.
Use some anti-seize compound or caliper lube and clean and lubricate all these parts before reassembly.

Likely the pads were not manufactured incorrectly.

[Icedawg]

Thanks, you were right about the sliders sticking. I finally got back to it. The bolts slid in the sliders, but the sliders did not slide inside the rubber fittings. They sliders did move with a pair of channel locks, so I cleaned 'em up, regreased 'em, put it back together and fit in the new pads. seems to work well now. Appreciate your helpful comments.