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Well Ive been dealing with high idle for a while. It warmed up and I have time to fix it. So I fixed what looked like was a tear in oil cooler coolant rubber line. I filled it up with coolant, did oil change and now it's still idling too high ~1000-1200 rpm vs supposed ~600rpm. Once in a while it will drop down to ~600 like for a few seconds while Im at traffic light. Ive even took intake hose off and made sure to clean inside of t-body. This is kinda frustrating...

Cooling system was bled? Have you used propane or something to trace possible vacuum leaks?
Very oddball longshot, but is your disty on tight? Mine came loose and shifted. ECU compensates, but hey, worth a shot if you haven't checked.

Mine is the same way, exactly. I've just ignored it. Maybe I should look into it, too..

same prob here too. I thought it was the tps so i got a new one. then i thought it was the IAC, and that it was cold out and it still does it. i kinda just ignore it lol.

MgXs3 wrote:same prob here too. I thought it was the tps so i got a new one. then i thought it was the IAC, and that it was cold out and it still does it. i kinda just ignore it lol.

Did you replace your IAC Valve?

Maybe a coolant sensor?

When its idling like that again take and close the butterfly valve on the throttle body, if that makes a difference then yeah same as me its the throttle cable.

Mine had the same problem it was stuck, take it off of the Throttle body and spray some lubricant down inside the cable).

Sometimes, the idle will go down to normal if I slow down the engine by putting it into 5th, while coasting to a stop. When the clutch engages, it forces the engine to turn slower, and sometimes stays there.

Smith18 wrote:When its idling like that again take and close the butterfly valve on the throttle body, if that makes a difference then yeah same as me its the throttle cable.

Mine had the same problem it was stuck, take it off of the Throttle body and spray some lubricant down inside the cable).

I did try to close butterfly manually, it would idle slower but there's no tension from the throttle cable so its not throttle cable. What I this it is is TPS and Ive read on the other thread how to adjust it, I think I might risk messing with it later on...

Just an interesting test, unplug your IAC connector and see if you can adjust your idle perfectly manually

Have you managed to solve your problem with idling?

I had the very same problem, my idle rpm changed very rapidly between 1000-200rpm when the engine was halfway between cool and warmed up. I found out I had a radiator leak, and my engine coolant was almost totally gone. After I refilled my radiator the problem more or less went away. However, one thing still remains:

After the engine has warmed up, idle rotation is 1200-1400 rpm. The idle will go down to normal (800) if I slow down the engine by putting it into 5th, while coasting to a stop, like fowljesse said. When the clutch engages, it forces the engine to turn slower, and usually it stays there.

The other trick I found was turning on some electric devices of high power consumption (like forcing the power window motor to pull up the window when the window is already up). This also has the effect of slowing down the engine, and once its rpm is decreased, it stays there.

Please, if you found a solution, post it here!

Br
Kristof

mine does the exact same thing. It will rapidly go from like 1000 to 2200 when its almost warm. One time i hled down the window switch and it stop but that only happended once so i think its my IAC which is gonna be deleted when it gets a little warmer outside.

Mine was idling high and I could not adjust the idle down because the vacuum hose on the pcv was a terrible fit and very loose. I replaced the hose and now my car idles as it should.

And by the way, I may have missed it but I don't think you guys ever mentioned actually trying to turn the idle down...

this was happening to me after a few days of owning my car. i couldnt find any vacuum leaks. i took off the tps, iac, and the tb and cleaned them with carb cleaner and it went away.

I have taken my MX3 to a Mazda service-station. They read out the error codes: there were two errors originating from the coolant temperature sensors. These sensors probably had made incorrect measurements because of my radiator leakage (the water had not reached the sensors).

The error codes were now cleared, the radiator refilled, and the idle rpm was adjusted somewhat (afaik). Now the problem is completely gone. It took about half an hour and costed 5000HUF (about 16EUR).

It was definately worth the trouble!