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Ok, so i start up there car and go down the road. come to a red light and have the car in first, the idle is at like 2200rpm, but when i put it in neutral it goes to 1800-2000 rpm.
sometimes when in neutral its down at about 1600 or 1700, but most of the time it stays at about 2000rpm. and of course everyonce in a while i have the eratic idle.
any clues? think my idle is set too high?

Also, I've found that the k8 has 130-132hp, but i couldnt find anything on the torque. This k8 feels like it has the torque of a d16 civic. being, none. can anyone give me some info on times people have made on the 1/8 with the probe motor?

Ironic that someone with your username should post a problem about eratic idle.

Yeah, you need to isolate and fix any vacuum leaks, put the car in diagnostic mode and set the idle air control screw so that the car idles around 7-800 rpm when warm. Should be several posts on how to do this if you do a quick search. This should resolve the high idle, surge and imrove throttle response. Performing a TPS adjustment may also be beneficial.

I really didnt think of the car running smooth when i made the name, I was think more along the lines of the body shape. Smooth, sleep, sharp design.
Anyways...

Vacumm leaks? Ugh! ... Those are hard to track down.
Dont know how to diagnos this car yet, but ill search how. Anyways, Ill mess with the idle screw and see what happens there. thanks for the input.

I second the TPS adjustment.

Any details on how to adjust this?
or do you think i might could find it in search?

I believe you can just loosen it and move it a little to adjust properly. But don't quote me on that.

You can quote me on this. There are 2 ways to adjust TPS - though no guarantee that this will fix your surging idle if due to vacuum leak.

The first way involves ohmmeter and feeler gauge. Complete write up in V6 FAQ titled "TPS".

The second way (less accurate) is called "fan method". If you search on that you should get the info pretty quick. Basic info: Put ECM in diagnostic mode (jumper TEN and GND on the diagnostic box). Turn key to on position (don't think the engine has to be running). Loosen TPS screws and twist until rad fan comes on. Adjust TPS to a position when the fan is just turned off.

Good luck. You have a frustrating problem - I hope you find a fix.

hmm... Thanks
I'm scared im gonna mess with it and make it worse. I was noticing last night when i was driving, it would be going normal at first then it feels like i lost power for a sec, then over and over. Kinda like a real choppy power band or something. hard to explain.

i thought the fan should be on when you adjust the tps.

2fazed wrote:i thought the fan should be on when you adjust the tps.

Twist until fan turns on then back to position when it is just off. So final position is when the fan has just turned off.

davmac wrote:

2fazed wrote:i thought the fan should be on when you adjust the tps.

Twist until fan turns on then back to position when it is just off. So final position is when the fan has just turned off.

correct!!

had same idle problems after swapping the ZE... adjusting the TPS fixed it just right!!

The thing is....i tried doing this but the screw wont move...you know how on the curved neck on the K8 how hard it is to get through to get to the bottom screw...and no matter how hard I turn it it doesnt move... I broke the top screw already I only got one left

You probably need to pull the TB to get access. Then invest $10 - 20 in an impact screwdriver. You can get one at Sears. You hit the thing with a hammer and it twists the stubborn screw. Kinda satisfying to hit it and effective too.

davmac wrote:You probably need to pull the TB to get access. Then invest $10 - 20 in an impact screwdriver. You can get one at Sears. You hit the thing with a hammer and it twists the stubborn screw. Kinda satisfying to hit it and effective too.

impact screw driver eh? sweet...i ve had enuf with stubborn screws grrrr