MX-3.com

ok so i am doing a head gasket/timing belt/water pump change on the mx3 (94 B6) and am wondering if there is a comprehensive guide for doing it. i printed out the service manual pages on it but they are sketchy at best.

have you done any mechanical work before? ive done a headgasket fix with just a haynes manual and a set of sockets my first time. its not that hard but if you never done any mechanical work be prepared to do it over and over till you get it right(timing belt) setting the cams was the hardest thing for me to do. just remember if you dont know for sure check the manual or come on here and ask. nothing worse then messing something up thats expensive and having to do it over again. good luck

I was thinking about this myself. As far as I have been told, it needs to be resurfaced before replacing. I was going to go with new arp head studs and probably an mls. JWmotorsports was going to make a engine build up guide a while back, but s#!t happens.

yah i recently did a clutch change on my integra so i feel confident in doing it. its just that the online service manual is so damn vague and poor pictures. is like chiltons better?

I had trouble with the Chilton write up, mainly because I don't know all of the names of the parts. It does list everything you need to do, but the pictures don't help much untill you start overhauling trhe head.

ya the pictures in the haynes wont be any better. just says take this off, unbolt that, drain this. ya its usually good to get the head check out. ya if you can change a clutch then you can do a headgasket job. just unbolting, following instructions, make sure the head is clean and the block is clean and flat. make sure to follow the head bolt torque sequence exactly. your gonna have to take off the crank pulley to gain access to the crank gear. the part that you might have to do a couple times is the cam(valve timing) you have to make sure both cams intake and exhaust cam gears on in the right spot usually good to have another person hold the other cam but not necessary i did it by myself.

So, you can actually take your head off with out getting it resurfaced? I was always told to have it machined before replacing the HG and sealing it back up. Can anyone else confirm this?

Now im not sure if you HAVE to get it re-surfaced but its a damn good idea. after time with the engine heating and cooling many times both blocks warp slightly. You will never be able to get it in the exact same position as before so the block and head wont match up perfectly and you will quickly blow the head gasket.

Its like that stupid comercial on the tv with the vacum, why do things twice when you only have to do it once. I say getting both blocks shaven will create a perfect gasket mating surface and it will be incredibly flat so the chances of the gasket failing are greatly deminished.

as they say do the job right the first time so you dont have to do it again.

well i will most likely get the head resurfaced but i don't see the possibility of getting the actual block decked cuz i can't move the car and i'm definitely not going thru the hassle of pulling the engine

well just make sure you get all the gasket off the block and wipe it down clean. you can measure with a feeler gauge how flat your cylinder head is. the specs are in the manual somewhere if you dont decide to get it to a shop. cleanliness is the key. do it right and clean the first time

just remove the studs, you should replace them anyways. shove rags in all the holes and get ur self a power sander, the one that revolves and get some really fine grit sandpaper pads for it. only do a cupple pases just to make it completely flat.

ok so i was looking today and there is no belt on the water pump pulley. i find this quite odd and am wondering if this is what caused the headgasket to blow

thats weird because if its the DOHC version the water pump and alternator run off of the same belt. so no w/p belt no alt belt. but yes if your waterpump was not running and not circulating coolant your car will overheat. haha

Bumpysbro wrote:thats weird because if its the DOHC version the water pump and alternator run off of the same belt. so no w/p belt no alt belt. but yes if your waterpump was not running and not circulating coolant your car will overheat. haha

haha wait...yah my battery charge light came on the other night....i wonder if it snapped on the way home...

haha ya your alternator was charging your battery. with mine it was basically shredded off because the tension on the belt was wrong and slid on the pulley grooves wrong and just burnt it up. remember to get the belt tension correct, too tight and you put stress on your bearings of the alternator. too loose and it will not charge right. haha ive been through 4 alternators because of that. good luck