Mind boggling car trouble

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 17th, 2007, 3:22 pm

Got home the other night, went to move the car and it died just after I started it. Started it back up just fine, died again. Parked it, tried another alternator, no dice. Alternator tested fine. Checked for spark, no spark. Replaced coil, still nothing. Noticed a "buzzing" noise coming from the Idle Control Sensor when the car was in the "run" position, unplugged it real quick and the buzzing quit. Left it out, tried starting and got nothing. Turned the car to "run" position again to get the "buzzing" noise, unplugged it, while car was still in "Run" position, proceeded to start and it fired right up, but died again. Same results after several tries of the Run/unplug/start method. I'm not sure where to go from here. I did jump the TEN and GND in the diagnostic box and it threw codes 2-3-4. Code 2 was two quick flashes, code 3 was three slower flashes, code 4 was four quick flashes. Any ideas would be appreciated because as the title states, it's got me boggled. Especially with the ICS trick. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Joel

XL200 · Post by **XL200** » November 18th, 2007, 6:52 pm

I have the exact problem on my swapped BPZE. It buzzes VERY loud and I swapped tps sensors, and used the ics GND step by step to no avail. then i just adjusted the idle the incorrect way on purpose and the noise stopped but would start after a couple seconds. Im soo confused on this one and i cant keep the car running long enough to throw any codes. I start it, the ics buzzes, the car revs up and down from 2-3 grand for a few seconds and then it dies. Ive spent a couple weeks tying to figure this one out

let me know if you find something Joel
Thanks

TREVO123 · Post by **TREVO123** » November 19th, 2007, 1:40 am

XL200 wrote:I have the exact problem on my swapped BPZE. It buzzes VERY loud and I swapped tps sensors, and used the ics GND step by step to no avail. then i just adjusted the idle the incorrect way on purpose and the noise stopped but would start after a couple seconds. Im soo confused on this one and i cant keep the car running long enough to throw any codes. I start it, the ics buzzes, the car revs up and down from 2-3 grand for a few seconds and then it dies. Ive spent a couple weeks tying to figure this one out
let me know if you find something Joel
Thanks

That is exactly what mine is doing, It will start, pulse rev to 3000 rpm, to 1500-3000 again then i give her gas and she shuts off.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » November 19th, 2007, 9:46 am

Code 34 is Idle Air Control Valve or Circuit....

I don't know where the 2 comes from...

Have you doublechecked your codes to make sure it's 2-3-4?

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 19th, 2007, 10:35 pm

I checked the codes twice just to be sure. A friend of mine has been working on the car with me to try and figure it out and everything has tested fine so far. All the fuses were visually inspected and tested with a meter. Checked all connections involving the ignitions system, all is fine but still not getting any spark, even at the coil (even tried a new coil). Still don't think i'm getting fuel either. Don't hear the pump when I turn the key to the "run" position, and I don't smell it at all when I try to start the vehicle. I'm kinda running out of ideas here

Any suggestions?

shameem · Post by **shameem** » November 19th, 2007, 11:10 pm

I am assuming you have an SOHC -
buzzing sound from IAC might be semi-normal - that is how they work - they are turned on and off multiple times per second by the ECU. You got code 34 because you tried to start with the valve unplugged - it will go away once you reset the ECU. Code 2 indicates a distributor and or ignitor problem. If you have some junkyards nearby you might want to hunt for the ignitor module and possibly another distributor. Once you get the "new" parts - reset the computer and try starting it.

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 20th, 2007, 12:47 am

Well, that would seem logical but I didn't mess with the plugin until after I got the codes. Nothing had been touched until after I got the reading.

I'm still leaning towards the ECU or the main relay, because I can't think of anything else that would make both spark and fuel just vanish, 'cept for those 2 things. Guess i'll start with the main relay since it's cheaper, and go from there.

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 21st, 2007, 6:47 pm

Just wanted to touch base with the few people that have been following this issue. Figured i'd let you know folks know that I replaced the main relay and she fired right up. Shut it off, fired right up again. It would appear the my problem is solved

So, for those of you that have a Crank but not start, no fuel no spark issue...check the relay mounted on the passenger side of the ECU, it just might be the problem.

Joel

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 24th, 2007, 1:05 am

I guess when it rains, it pours. After replacing the relay, my alternator went bad. Replaced that tonight, took it for a drive and it died about a block from my friends house. Popped the clutch as I was rolling and it started back up, drove some more and it died again....lovely. Started it again and drove it about 1 mile with no issues and parked it back at his house. Dunno if i'd make it the full 5 miles back to my place or not.

Car seems to run fine, just randomly died those couple times and I don't wanna chance it. Doesn't bog or anything, no jerking..just boom rpm's go down and all my warning indicators come on. Any suggestions on what might be the issue?

shameem · Post by **shameem** » November 24th, 2007, 7:11 am

ignitor module

XL200 · Post by **XL200** » November 25th, 2007, 4:49 pm

I figured mine out. took the idel control valve assembly off and tested resistance and all was great so i took it apart and cleaned it up on the inside with some electrical part cleaner, dryed it out for about and hour(dont let liquid stay in their lol) and no more buzzing or stalling! except i still have the original problem of high idle, i cant get the car to idle below 2200 rpm(and yes i adjusted the idle from TEN to GND and it lowered the idle maybe 500rpm from about3grand, thats it.
Im thinking an air leak around the throttle body(if thats possible) area causing this. any ideas?
and i think the problem you may have now is prolly the ignitor module like shameem said

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 25th, 2007, 5:17 pm

Glad you got yours (somewhat) figured out. Hopefully it doesn't give you too much more trouble. Guess i'll probably do what you did and also replace the ignitor module if that doesn't do the trick. I'll post back as soon as I get the chance to do either.

Joel

EDIT: Actually, isn't the ignitor module integrated into the distributor? If i'm correct, then i'll have to replace the distributor as a whole, right?

JCS · Post by **JCS** » November 30th, 2007, 7:04 pm

Alright, priced a new distributor and I changed my mind. I'm gonna do an HEI conversion to save some money. If ya'll have any words of wisdom before I do this, feel free to post a reply.

Joel

shameem · Post by **shameem** » November 30th, 2007, 8:00 pm

JCS wrote: EDIT: Actually, isn't the ignitor module integrated into the distributor? If i'm correct, then i'll have to replace the distributor as a whole, right?

If its a DOHC yes the ign module is in disty - if its SOHC its outside.

JCS · Post by **JCS** » December 1st, 2007, 2:33 pm

Excellent. Mine is the SOHC so it looks like i'm set. Once the freezing rain stops, I should be able to go work on the car. I'll be sure to post back with the results when I can.