Frequently, the only time brakes are maintained by the average user is when they are gone, which so happens to be when the real damage begins.
Many also don't realize they need to MAINTAIN their brake system even when the pads aren't worn.
With a second car available to me, I have parked my RS and been doing past-due maintenance on her.
Right now, my focus is on the drivetrain. My CV Axle is just about dead, so it's very convenient to go ahead and do a complete overhaul on the brake system.
BRAKES:
Change them.
WHY?
Because.
And if that's not a good enough reason, maybe this is:
This is not a time warp... not in the sense you're thinking of.
Or this:
Do the math: y = M C (squared). Input the variables
answer comes out: F'ed!
WHEN
Should you change them?
Now. Well, it's dark, maybe tomorrow.
WHO
Is responsible for this?
CALIPERS! (In my case, at least)
The sliders on my calipers were more stiff than my... You know what, let's not go there. They were just frozen in place, and there were no sweet words that would free them.
Ok, I've ordered remanufactured calipers myself, but I tore my own caliper apart to show you exactly what you'll want to look for when rebuilding your caliper.
The Frozen Slider on the Caliper
So here's my caliper issue in all it's glory.
Note there are two sliders, I already have one out.
One slider on the RIGHT has a rubber boot on each end
The metal slider contacts the metal on the caliper directly.
The slider that would be on the RIGHT (the hole my thumb is on)
has a rubber sheath that runs through, and the slider slips through the sheath.
Knocking the Slider Out
I used a bolt, slipped it in the slider, then hammered away. However, the bolt was too big to fit through the caliper.
This baby doesn't want to leave!
I found a 10mm socket that I didn't need, took a crappy extension, and hammered it through the caliper.
The 10mm is JUST small enough where it doesn't damage the caliper innards.
Rusty Caliper in all it's Glory
Notice in the 3rd picture, that slider and the black stains on it? That is... WAS grease. Highlighted here is what I recommend you grease the dickens out of. These sliders SHOULD be able to move my other means OTHER than a hammer and a strong arm.
The lower slider and it's rubber sheath are pictured here. That's the slider that goes in the sheath that goes through the caliper on the lower hole.
Note, the caliper piston should also be checked. My piston could not be cleaner in it's chamber.
However, if it has contaminants, a rebuild kit will come with a replacement O-ring that goes inside the caliper, and is barely visible in the picture.
These calipers will be good to go after some greasing, however, I still want new ones for myself ;)
Now ask yourself:
When was the last time you performed maintenance on your calipers?
When have you greased the slider arms?
Depending on your answer, you might want to check!
(Note: Gro Harlem posted a FAQ about brakes which is very helpful. Go read it!)
Here is what I am purchasing:
Remanufactured Front left/right calipers w/semi-metallic pads: 30/pair (no core charge)
Brembo Slotted Disks: 120/Pair (Closeout Sale, very cheap!)
Akebono PROACT Ceramic Pad pair: 50/Front Set
You could simply get away with just purchasing the calipers and standard disks, which would reduce the price to $120.
Tirerack.com has the Brembo deal
Rockauto has the Calipers/Pads.
