CounterAct electronic rust protection?

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chertel
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CounterAct electronic rust protection?

Post by chertel »

I am reading the canadian tire flyer and saw this product that costs two hundred dollars and seventy dollars to install. It says its proven to prevent and inhibit rust by covering the body of your vehicle with an electronic charge that protects inside and out. 5 year product warranty.

If anyone has seen the canadian tire flyer or has time to check it out i was just wondering if it is bs or worth the money, just someones opinion thanx. I would post a pic from the flyer but dont know how?
Mi|<E
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Post by Mi|<E »

The theory is sound and if they say 5 years on it, it will last that long. Usually
Crappy Tire is very good about honoring warranty

Heres a link

http://autos.canada.com/news/story.html ... 11483d1d53

I 'might' try one of these cause theres way too much salt on the roads here
in winter that im beginning to loose the battle.
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Post by tehbrookzorz »

I always thought adding energy increased reaction rate.. ..
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chertel
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Post by chertel »

thanx for the link, here in edmonton it's on sale for $200 so I might get one.
later.
Mi|<E
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Post by Mi|<E »

My friends dad has been rust prevention on gas and oil pipes
fpr 30 + years and says these do not work.

Im gonna trust the experience
s1zzl3
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Post by s1zzl3 »

according to CanadianDriver:

"Another way of reducing rust is to fight it electrically. Remember how rust creates electrical power? What if we could reverse the power? That's the concept behind electronic rust prevention systems. This system uses capacitance by attaching plates to the body to create a negative charge on the vehicle's body. The negative charge counteracts the electrical charge of the rusting action, slowing rust formation."

"Would I recommend electronic rust prevention? No. I would save my money and apply it to keeping the vehicle clean. Rust occurs mostly where dirt and debris collect in recesses in the vehicle body. This area dries out slowly, so rust has a prime environment to occur. Wash under the vehicle thoroughly, inside front fenders and along trim to flush dirt out of corners. A clean vehicle dries quicker and dry vehicles rust very slowly."

Read the whole article here
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/070221.htm
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GoneAmok
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Post by GoneAmok »

s1zzl3:

Thanks for that article - an informative opinion piece. FYI - My local car dealerships appear to be 'all over' this concept of electronic rust prevention. Know a few people who have bought new cars and they were both 'sold' on this technology (at about $700, might I add).

From my personal experience (that has never involved electronic rust prevention), I seem to have had better rust prevention from a wax based anti-rust application than an oil based one. Moreover, the wax based is far less messy, they don't need to drill your car, and lasts many years whereas the oil based is to be re-applied every year. Again, just my experience.

FYI - My hometown is a great proving ground for rust. The City of Ottawa won't use sand, and as a result, they salt the living crap out of everything at first sign of snow... :roll: By mid-winter, most cars look like salt licks with wheels.
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Pumas_kitten
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Post by Pumas_kitten »

i thought it was another gimmick like one of those as seen on tv products

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lowridah313
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Post by lowridah313 »

My mom has a 2003 Toyota Corolla, I put one on her car when its was new. Its been 5 years and not one speck of rust anywhere.
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Post by wytbishop »

In every oxidation reaction there is a Cathode and an Anode. Electrons leave the Cathode and move to the Anode. In general the body of your car is more Cathodic than the environment it lives in so it naturally gives up electrons to the water it is in contact with (that's rust). By forcing it to carry a negative surface charge you are forcing the body of your car to be more Anodic than it's environment which should stop the reaction from occuring.

In ships and pipelines they weld a big hunk of some highly reactive metal to the side of the thing to act as a sacraficial Anode. Similar idea...put something in the environment which is a better anode that the thing you're trying to preserve.

I'm not a chemist, but they make you pretend to learn this stuff in Mech Eng...so I pretended to learn it.
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Post by umcamara »

wytbishop wrote:I'm not a chemist, but they make you pretend to learn this stuff in Mech Eng...so I pretended to learn it.
Impressive. I'm in Mech. Engineering, and studied that in Applied Chem for Engineers last year. I don't remember any of it. Considering you're 36, and would have covered that years ago, I'd say you have a far better memory than I do. :wink:
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Post by wytbishop »

umcamara wrote:
wytbishop wrote:I'm not a chemist, but they make you pretend to learn this stuff in Mech Eng...so I pretended to learn it.
Impressive. I'm in Mech. Engineering, and studied that in Applied Chem for Engineers last year. I don't remember any of it. Considering you're 36, and would have covered that years ago, I'd say you have a far better memory than I do. :wink:
Smoke and Mirrors my friend...
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mr1in6billion
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Post by mr1in6billion »

lowridah313 wrote:My mom has a 2003 Toyota Corolla, I put one on her car when its was new. Its been 5 years and not one speck of rust anywhere.
5 years isn't that long. I have cars 3 times that old with no rust (other than the wipers). My 1960 Caddy barely has any rust and it hasn't moved in 25 years.
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Post by tehbrookzorz »

wytbishop wrote:Smoke and Mirrors my friend...
It's not a trick, it's an illusion!
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tehbrookzorz
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Post by tehbrookzorz »

wytbishop wrote:Smoke and Mirrors my friend...
It's not a trick, it's an illusion!
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