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Hi I was wondering if anyone knows

if a V6 MX3 and a V6 MX6 have the same distributor

or if at least it is compatible?

I 'm having issues with my MX3 ignition

and replaced the distributor with an MX6's

now trouble code 4 is present

but at least it starts after a 3 to 5 secs crank.

Before it was installed the car wouldn't even start.

you shouldnt of used an mx6 disty, not that you cant but it would been a better idea to do the hei/blaster mod, more than likely your ignitor in the disty went out as this is a common problem among the internal mazda distributors. the hei/blaster modifys your disty to accept an external coil and HEI, while also eliminating the crappiness of the stock ignition.

i would do the hei mod and possibly external coil.

and starting after 3-5 seconds of cranking is too long.

They are the exact same disty...only thing u have to make sure is that u use a 93-94 disty if u have a 92-94 MX-3 any years after that i don't know the compatibility 100%

But '95 disty will drop on a 93-94 mx-6 but will throw the CEL u have cause 95+ the eliminated the extra sensor in the disty. So since your ECU is looking for that sensor which is no longer present it throws a CEL.

2 options....95 MX-6 ECU assuming u have a 2.5, or change the disty with a 93-94 MX-6/Probe Disty.

Thanks a lot guys.
Appreciate the Info I will look into it..

Hi all! Well I really don't know what else to do. I got a brand new disty and ignition cables. Now the car starts every time (but will still take about 3 secs before catching and CEL will come on and stay on) but once in a while it will start just fine and no CEL light on. What should I do? What could cause that? I read forums but still couldn't find anything. Will a HEI mod make a difference?

the HEI/Blaster mod is THE BEST MOD for the v6 PERIOD. seriously it turns your distributor into nothing but a cam sensor and a rotor. the ignitor and the coil are THE problems in the ignition system. you can just do the hei mod and not swap the coil, but WHY? adding the coil only cost a few more dollars (50 max) and its way better than the internal one

Mnemonic wrote:the HEI/Blaster mod is THE BEST MOD for the v6 PERIOD. seriously it turns your distributor into nothing but a cam sensor and a rotor. the ignitor and the coil are THE problems in the ignition system. you can just do the hei mod and not swap the coil, but WHY? adding the coil only cost a few more dollars (50 max) and its way better than the internal one

x2

Mooneggs wrote:

Mnemonic wrote:the HEI/Blaster mod is THE BEST MOD for the v6 PERIOD. seriously it turns your distributor into nothing but a cam sensor and a rotor. the ignitor and the coil are THE problems in the ignition system. you can just do the hei mod and not swap the coil, but WHY? adding the coil only cost a few more dollars (50 max) and its way better than the internal one

x2

Well see I have this same problem and have for a long time, you said that it turns the disty into a cam sensor. well that is his problem. mine too. Plus mine is a 95 so if it didnt need it I would be ok but I'm not. The funny thing is that no one has ever posted that they have cured code 4 yet. every one says its code 5 or 6 the crank position sensor. oh well i guess we'll just keep driving around rich till some one can figure this out.

The funny thing is that no one has ever posted that they have cured code 4 yet.

The reason no one has cured code 4 yet is because it CAN'T be cured by anything other than replacing the distributor or the ignition module assembly if you can find a place that will sell you just that part and not the whole distributor. As you can see from this page from the online shop manual..



Code 3 & 4 are CAMSHAFT POSITION sensor codes. Code 3 is more the ignition module. No SGT (Code 4) I believe means you have no trigger signal coming from the distributor to the ECU.. the ECU then cant trigger the ignition module. The reason the HEI Ignition modification doesnt solve this is because it is still dependant on that camshaft position sensor trigger signal. You can have the ignitor module go bad.. you can have the coil go bad. But the Camshaft position sensor has to be good still. Also as you can see from this page... Code 5 is a knock sensor code and code 6 doesnt exist.

AlexMX3 - I have no idea why your car actually ran with a Code 4.. it shouldnt have.. mine didnt LOL Only thing I can think of is that it was a left over code from the previous distributor.

Anyway.. hope this stuff helps solve some issues.

Tunes67

Well the car runs Fine. other that the rough... extremely rough start (no hesitation whatsoever when I drive).At least once a day it will start just right with no CEL on. I reset ECU pulled codes again then all is cleared except for code 29 (no big deal right EGR valve vent) no more code 04 until I start the car then the CEL comes on again and stays lit. Then Pull codes one more time and there is was again code 04. I'm going to attempt to replace the wire harness that I got from the scrap yard. is the Camshaft signal to ECU on the three wire harness or the other one can't remember. Anyways I will do that next since everything else is new. Could it be the ECU that needs Replacing?

AlexMX3 wrote: I reset ECU pulled codes again then all is cleared except for code 29 (no big deal right EGR valve vent) no more code 04 until I start the car then the CEL comes on again and stays lit. Then Pull codes one more time and there is was again code 04.

Sometimes the codes tell ya everything. The reason your idle is rough is because EGR valve has a problem. That valve is allowing exaust gazes in the intake manifold when it's not supposed to, at idle.

Sorry I shouldn't have used the terms rought start.What I mean by that it that it is hard to start(3secs crank or so and usually only starts at the second crank.) Not that it idles roughly.It idles just fine once it'n on.

Well that might mean the sensor is going bad but is still partially functional. If its throwing a code 4 at all.. I wouldnt trust it.. it will leave you stranded somewhere eventually.

Tunes67