MX-3.com

ok so i have mx3 kl-ze.. obviously lol i seem to lack alot of low end torque but i have lots of top end powa!

what my car is currently like

kl-31 cammed curve neck manifold

ssauto headers, 2.5'' cat/exhaust/muffler

warm air intake

probe flywheel

pro-comp 50k coil , ze dizzy, ngk wires

my car has no low end torque at all.. vris is operating perfectly once it hits 5000 rpms it picks up alot of power!

also i am running K8 ecu with KL-02 vaf as it seems to give me most power.. i tried kl-32 ecu with JE50, probinator chipped ecu and i tried DE ECU with the 02 vaf as well and none gave me any low end torque..

i have 2 friends one with stock ZE with probinator chip and k8 flywheel and cai and his car has ALOT of low end and high it just pulls and pulls

my other friend has a fidanza with probinator and well alot more to hes had 2 kl-ze's and both of them hauled a-- and pulled from low - high rpm wtf?

the only thing i can see they have over me is a bit of a lighter fly and 2 1/4'' exhaust but it cant make that much diff? it seems they have like 20 pounds more torque than i do lol but once im in high rpm i pass them both.. any ideas?

o also my compression was 210 average across all 6 cylinders

tps is set perfect.. brand new 02 sensors brand new ignition although sometimes misfires.. engine runs good! no smoke at start up or when i hit the gas.. i dunno if its normal or not lol as all other ZE seem to just go!

also it is NOT a vris issue or a vacuum leak issue

dyno?

dun have a dyno plot..

does the engine just seem to rev slowly untill 5k or still revs fast , just no power?

Seems like some sensor issue is making the ecu go into limp mode (above 5000 RPM i think the ecu ignores some sensors) - Have you swapped around with the temp, knock & crank sensors....
Maybe the fuel system is clogged?

fuel flows nicely all the way to the rails and my coolant sensor hasnt worked since the swap lol and yesterday my knock sensor connector broke off..

correction..coolant sensor has not worked since the swap. I think ecu is in limp mode because of that.

ooops i ment to say hasnt lol

One my last car I couldnt believe how much power I lost when the knock sensor went, the car ran smoothly just had NOOOOOOO power at all.

well hopefully today ill get a new knock sensor and temp sensor and s---! (=

With the K8 ECU, the power band on the KL engine shifts peak power up 500 RPM. Then, if you didn't have Probinator reprogram your new VRIS points, you'll also miss some power there from the wrong VRIS points.

Only other thing I can think is your grounds may be questionable, causing ignition problems at lower RPM.

my car is misfiring alot and now its cuts out around corners wtf? and yes my gas tank was full lol :S

I had an issue with bad gas for a while in my k8... if I took a corner too fast or onramps and such the car would cut out but come right back on... weird stuff

According to the mazda shop manual (92)

POOR ACCELERATION (page F2 - 59)

1. Troubleshooting hints
a. Factors other than engine malfunction
Clutch Slipping, Brake Dragging, Low tire pressure

b. low intake air amount
clogged air intake, throttle valve not fully open.

air/fuel mixture to lean, poor ignition, low compression

Steps:
1. Check factors other than engine
Clutch Slipping, brake drag, tire pressure

2. Does throttle valve open when accelerator is fully pressed (Check throttle linkage)

4. Check continuity between throttle sensor terminal IDL and E.
Adjust throttle position sensor. (That is what I would check as that can make a big difference in the way the car drives)

7. Is intake manifold vacuum correct at idle.
Check for air leakage

8. Fuel line pressure correct?
Low pressure (pressure regulator, clogged filter/line), high pressure (is fuel line clogged, if not regulator is bad)

So according to the manual is it something from the above.

Things I would do that make a difference in performance:
1. check your air filter is clean,
2. check brakes are not dragging,
3. Check throttle linkage and adjust tps again (its easy,loosen 2 screws and turn tps one way and back. When the fan comes on turn it back a touch so it goes off.)
4. Replace fuel filter if you have not done it before (under/behind battery tray if I recall correctly)
5. Having your vacuum lines routed incorrectly can cause it to run bad as well.

Cutting out would sound like a ignition issue, but you have already replaced those components, unless they are failing as well.

Perhaps check for a air leak between the vaf and throttle body. If there is a leak there, that could cause the car to stumble or cut out.