MX-3.com

Hello all, I have been perusing the MX3 fourm since the purchase of our new (to us) 1992 MX3 SOHC. I picked it up cheap to replace the aging and slowly dying 1991 Escort my wife used to drive to work, 14 miles one way. So a bit about the MX3, as said it is a 1992 SOHC, 5 speed, A/C, alloy wheels and that is it. A typical RS I believe.

When we purchased the MX the exhaust was flex tube and such so I had it replaced with 2" catback into a normal universal exhaust to control the noise, as the wife for sure didn't like the noise.
But I am having issues with the car, the main and most bothersome issue is the fact the car dies, or goes to 200rpm before jumping back up to normal 750rpm idle. And it isn't an issue in any other range of rpm, just when the clutch is applied and coming to a stop. The odd part is it is while the brake is being applied only. So I assumed that it was a vaccum type leak somewhere, old hoses and such, but no such luck. So I got the idea, the brake lights are a plenty when the brake is applied so instead of the brake I pulled the bright lever and walla, same type of issue. And I have changed the battery, so I put the VOM to it and the alternator is a bit jumpy at first on the readings but I thought it could have been me, either way it read a fairly steady 14.04 and the battery was at a steady 13.9 until loaded and it would read 13.5 or so..

Does this sound like a Alt. going bad? Or do I have a MX3 grimlin I have yet to get to know? Is this a usual trouble with these cars?
Thanks
stigler

P.S. Great site BTW.

*note I have yet to change the fuel filter..

My car is a 93 but same as yours otherwise. I had the same issues a while back with rpm drop/stall at lights, stop signs etc... thought it was a big problem I was going to have to look into. I had installed a new alt belt and had yet to readjust the tension after the initial break in. The belt had started to squeal at start up and heavy draw times so I tightened it up. The squealing stopped and what do you know all the fluctuation and stalling went away also. Car idles nice and steady, idle reacts correctly when a/c, lights, or other draw is turned on. It took more tension on the belt than I usually would apply to keep it from squealing but no burned out bearings so far. good luck.

Thank you much.. I will try this out!

Thanks. Stig.

Your voltage readings seem a bit on the low side to me. My RS puts out 14.5 at idle and 14.2 when in gear (car is a Auto trans). The alternators in these cars are notoriously bad. Most of them were produced by mitsushitsi for these cars. Might want to get the alternator checked.. make sure your battery connections are clean and tight and maybe do a search on "Ground wire kits" here or via google. They seem to help some of the low power issues as well.

Tunes67

I did another check yesterday of the power output before I checked the belt, I read 14.89 to 14.9 and the like when at idle, my memory must not be so good. I did however notice all was well with all connections and had previously changed the battery post clamps out, due to the fact the ones on the car were horrible. So in doing this I would 'blip' the throttle at the butterfly, and the car would almost die, do it again the car would almost die or go ahead and die if I wasn't quick on the draw. This got me to thinking, if this only happens in stop and go or at a stop, what if it is something totally different than I thought. I then got inside of the car, clutch down or not the car would do surging low idle thing (with 400 rpm blips), loaded it up with brights and hi fan etc.. Same thing, so to make this story short, I simply lossened the throttle cable, adjusted back to speck (looked like sombody had messed with it) and found it to be the problem, drove the car and it didn't stall once.

Thanks for your help, great site.

Stig

I thought Matsushita Electric made the alternator?

Meh, we can blame Mitsushitsi for it anyways.


Glad you found the solution to your problem