MX-3.com

ok all this searching through nonsense has drivin me to the edge of where i want to go today

basicaly heres what i need

im looking to boost my b6 (dohc) and i cant seem to find a manifold to mount my turbo. i can pull up some for the b6 in the miatas but the manifold is facing the opposite dirrection then what i need it to be facing (facing upward instead of normal downward). i need to find myself a decent manifold that will fit in the confined space between the block and radiator. any help is appreciated.


also does anyone know off the top of their head how many pounds the b6 will take on stock internals without risk of det.?

I have a new manifold with a T3 flange welded on already that will fit the B6 if you're interested. PM me if you are

Mazda made a turbo version of the DOHC B6 known as the B6T. Don't see why the turbo manifold off that won't work

Nd4SpdSe wrote:Mazda made a turbo version of the DOHC B6 known as the B6T. Don't see why the turbo manifold off that won't work

agreed, most people I see running b6 turbos run b6t stock turbo manifold and turbo

The 323 GTX manifold fits perfectly and you can use either the GTX IHI-VJ14 turbo or the MX6 IHI-VJ11 turbo which both bolt onto the GTX manifold.

I am using the exact manifold on my turbo setup.

im aware of the gtx and the 11,14, and suposedly the 16 will fit on but i have a t3 that i am going to use because its common, produces a good ammount of boost, and is easy to replace.
there are so few of the gtx manis arround that i wouldnt go hacking one just to stick a misdoobishi turbo on it.
boris could you send me pics?
i have a mani thats suposed to fit (bad drilling) but even if it mounted the flange is facing the hood so id have to do ireversable chopping.
thx

Cut the manny you have and flip it. Cut it where the tubes are welded to the engine side flange. Then flip a 180 and weld the tubes back onto flange.

A second option for finding a B6T mani would be off of a early 90's Mercury Capri XR2. These cars were imported from Australia so dont expect to find them all over the place. But I have seen a few here and there and its another place to watch for when searching for a hard to find part. Cheers

Tunes67

jarid ran i thought 12lbs on an ihi

ok cool

i was looking for 8-12 lbs... i also thought of fliping the mani but that would mean i have to move the primary fan for the block..wich meens no intercooler...it was just a bad mani all in all... i dont have much equipment and i do a lot of my own work because i dont trust any of the mechanics arround here.



also does anyone have any idea why my af ratio would spike from rich to lean verry rapidly..??... and please dont tell me its the 600$ iab...
i need to figure it out before i boost simply because i dont want to run lean and det...

thx

You could get someone like me to make you one. I've made a couple B6 manifolds for memebers here, one for my drag car's B6, and 2 BP manifolds. PM me if your interested. So far to my knowledge none of them have cracked either because of the materials, design, & solid TIG welds. The one on my drag car has held the weight of the manifold, big 30R turbo, & exhaust for over 15,000 miles of abuse & heat cycling....and I mean LITERALLY holding those components weight! We didn't make a support bracket to hold the turbos weight and I only have two exhaust hangers on the very rear of the car forcing the load on the manfiold and head flange. This was done intentionally to prove the strenght of our fabrications.

As far as your AFRs...When are they spikeing? What are the operating conditions when it occurs?

the ratio spikes under normal conditions
sometimes it will jump from below guage readings to ideal and then sometimes itll jump from lean all the way to rich
normaly the only way i can get it to stay a constant flow is if i have the throttle wide open pas 3.5k or so and even then its not always the same reading
if im lucky i get one over rich and it picks up nicely but ive seen it go all the way rich before
ive a new mass and oxy sensors, vis is plugged up but not sure if its working correctly..not even sure if itll help/hinder, new walbro fuel pump in it, regulator is in good shape, new k&n filter so its getting good air flow, fuel fliters good, coolant temp sensor is new.
the only thing i can think of right now that might cause it to jump like that is a vaccume leak..and ive already checked the car so it must be a controoled vaccume leak so thats why im saying the iab.

its driving me nuts

Have you took it to the local parts store to have it scanned for codes? I know on the 1.6L SOHC you had to jump the test engine pin (TEN) of the diagnostic plug to the GND pin. This will put the ECU in test engine mode and it will flash any trouble codes through the check engine light. Long flashes count as the first digit and short flashes count as the second digit. Example....2 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes would equal code 23. The online manual should step you through this process. If not then a Hanes manual will and lists the code numbers along with there description.

Vac. leaks can cause the AFRs to change...but it would have to be pretty big to change that far. Have you checked your cat to make sure it isn't stopped up or that the internal core isn't loose. A loose cat core can cause weird inconsistant changes, a broken muffler baffle can do so as well. Also double check all your electrical connections in the engine bay, if any of your clips are broke you could have a connection that briefly breaks. Corrosion on the terminals can also cause this. Same thing with your battery terminals. Have you added any wireing...fuel controllers...etc...? These would be the first wiring connections I'd check if you have....also...did you crimp or solder the connections, crimps are not as reliable as most think and they are prone to corrosion problems over time if not propperly sealed. Another thing you should do is replace your fuel filters and make sure your gas tank isn't low. Being that it sounds like your problem is intermittant the probability is it is an electrical connection. The IAC shouldn't be the problem unless your having idle problems. Reason being the MAS will see the increase in air flow if the IAC were to open at any time and correct for it. Normally a bad IAC causes a car to not stay running or idle poorly on cold start...especailly the colder the air the worse it will be unless the rpms are held to 1300+ until the engines warms up.

When you turbo your car you are DEFINATELY going to want to disconnect the VICS system as it will cause a brief lean condition when it switches open to shorten the intake runners. We had this problem with our sleeper MX-3 w/ a lil Mitsu 16G turbo and decided to fix the runners to stay short. The turbo adds enough pressure at low rpms to make up for the difference and it gets rid of the lean studder that the VICS caused.

i forgot how to jump the diagnostics to test it and havnt ben able to find it since so ill try that
as far as the cat gos...well lets just say the cats not a problem.
and for the wireing...ive slowly but surely ben replaceing the wireing loom and ben checking the wires as i go and the only thing ive taped into was the o2 so that i could get the af ratio..that and i have a red top with gold plated posts so no batery issues..fuel filter is new too...

is there any way to seal off the vics? i can close the valve but its not going to stay shut...also...why is it just one big chamber instead of another set of tubing? all its doing is causing the engine to choke itself by sucking in from a larger space. wtfx3

Weld the butterfly valves shut.