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When installing cams, should i worry about the torque spec of 125 in/lbs? or just use common sense and torque them in the correct sequence, once to get them seated, and than barely hand tight again to ensure they are all down good?

Nate

you could buy a $15 torque wrench from the local parts store or you could snug the bolts down and go with it. i rarely torque the camshaft bolts but i rarely take the camshaft out of MY car!

blazeredgs, can you show pics or direct me on how to remove and reinstall cams?

I usually go straight by the online manual, and than what is unclear in the manual, i can usually figure out with common sense seeing it in person, or find an answer either here or probetalk. Its pretty straight forward, check the manual and im sure you can figure it out.

Nate

I hope you have a torque wrench as you've assembled an entire engine. Especially important on the smaller bolts on this engine since they're prone to breaking. If you break a cam bolt off in the head, you'll kick yourself in the head for not using a torque wrench.

i do have a torque wrench but the smallest increment is 20 ft/lbs, and even that is almost impossible to feel it click. So my wrench wont cut it when it comes to 125 in/lbs.

Nate

snug them down. then for good measure give it another 1/4 turn or so. you will be fine. i have done it many times w/ out a torque wrench.

Um no, Never assemble an engine without a proper torque wrench. There is a reason they have specs for those bolts. If you tighten those bolts to different specs your gonna load up the head differently, Cause ware on the cam journals, all sorts of things could happen.

If you an expirenced builder over time you get a feel for how much torque your putting on things but there is no replacement for the proper tool.

i am going to put them on hand tight until the cam caps are seated, and than give them another 1/4 turn, making them barely hand tight. I am not going to wrench down on them by any means, breaking bolts or over tightening enough to cause excessive wear.

Nate

ho bag wrote:Um no, Never assemble an engine without a proper torque wrench. There is a reason they have specs for those bolts. If you tighten those bolts to different specs your gonna load up the head differently, Cause ware on the cam journals, all sorts of things could happen.

If you an expirenced builder over time you get a feel for how much torque your putting on things but there is no replacement for the proper tool.

I 100% agree with this guy
I will always use a torque wrench for internal bolts. Mostly for wear purposes like stated above

Its the same basis of why people you torque plates when boring a block, it simulates the stresses of a head on the block so when its bored it will be stright. If bolts arnt to the right spec things are going to be distorted.

there is a torque spec on your wheels, on your caliper bolts, on your motor mount bolts, on your intake plenum bolts, throttle body bolts, exhaust studs etc...do you torque those down to spec every time? i agree that its important to torque the headbolts, crank, main, etc... but the cam isnt that hard to do. i have done alot of heads and rarely ever torque the cam back. i did a headgasket last week on a 94 civic and ran the cam caps back on w/ 3/8 impact gun at low torque. i have never had one come back w/ a problem.

should you torque them...yes

can you get away w/ using common sense...absolutely.

Each wheel stud 79 ft/lb

Do as you wish but dont complain when s--- breaks or wears out early.

It's really important to follow the torque specification , especially for the "cam holder" bolts (11 to 14lbs), they break really easily, I broke one in the head cuz my torque wrench is not so accurate.. not fun to get off, but I don't think I hit 25lbs when it broke so...

Use the book specs and procedures. I made a horrible mistake by not using it. I cracked 2 intake cams because I wasn't careful enough. And make sure you use some nice grease on the bearings.