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I am seriously considering using a 4-cyl engine due to cheaper and more readily available parts as well a better tranny. I noticed there are Pauter rods for the SOHC B6 but not the DOHC B6. What are the pros and cons between single and twin cams with f/i? Which one is jwmotorsport using?

double post

You use the rods for the 323, mx-3 or the miata 1.6/1.8L. Here is a site and the part number that you will be looking for. The rod's spec's are all the same in these cars

http://www.racetep.com/pautermazford.html

323/MX5 1.6/1.8L
.787”
1.890””
5.228”
.860”
Call
MAZ-200-480-1328F

Hope this helped.

Jeff

I like the rods listed at the bottom of the page. Too bad it costs more for one of those than for a whole set of Pauter rods. lol

Custom_V6_Limited_SE wrote:I noticed there are Pauter rods for the SOHC B6 but not the DOHC B6. What are the pros and cons between single and twin cams with f/i? Which one is jwmotorsport using?

The sohc and dohc rods are interchangeable I believe. And jm has a DOHC. Nobody really bothers building up the sohc engines.

I started my build with a 1.6L B6T engine (DOHC). Then bought 2 more. You can find them in the 88-89 323 turbo's and the early 90's Mercury Capri XR-2. I chose to build the piss out a 1.6L for the challenge of making BIG HP on a small displacement engine.

My recommendations for your build:

To swap from a V6 to a 4cyl your best bet is to go get the entire engine & drive line out of a 90-94 Mazda Protege LX (1.8L DOHC). Next you need a turbo manifold, turbo, and a standalone EMS with a wideband gauge, EGT gauge, Boost gauge. This is the start of a RELIABLE build up. You'll need to beef up the clutch as well and run Lucas 80W-90 gear oil w/ one bottle of Lucas trans fix to keep the gear box together (it doesn't keep wheel hop from blowing the spyder gears...NOTHING will save a tranny from wheel hop over time). Next you need to upgrade the fuel pump & injectors, get a HKS SSQV or Tial 50mm blow off valve, an intercooler, ic pipes, exhaust, & aftermarket ignition system with NGK V-power plugs gapped at .030". I highly reccomend new 8+mm plug wires, & Brass Terminal Disty Cap with the ignition system. My Accel 300+ Ignition system arcs like a welder and loves to eat stock disty caps!

What is your power goals? The stock BP can handle 300WHP reliably for a long time if tuned well. The BP's & B6's can all swap rods, water pumps, bearings, cluthes, flywheels, oil pumps (depending on if you have the newer large snout crank or the small snout), head studs, cam gears, timing belts, & accessory belts. They cannot swap pistons, cranks, head gaskets, valve covers, cams, or heads though because the BP is about 3/4" longer than the B6.

The V6 cars run a G-series gear box which I belive is equivilant in strength to the Pro-LX drive line I'm using as it is also derived from the G-series family. You could just build a KLZE...put a twind disc clutch in, 1600cc injectors, GT42RS turbo, keep a couple gear boxes on hand...lol

I have a friend that I might be buying a 1.6L 4-cyl DOHC manual MX-3 from for the purpose of cannibalization. I want to do a build very similar to Franko's new build with forged pistons and Pauter rods. I am not sure if I want to build the head or not yet. How is the stock MX-3 RS tranny for strength? Also, what is the biggest turbo that can be used on a B6 DOHC without too much lag?

I want to make sure I use the best tranny available. The other thing I don't like about the ZE build is $690 for the ARP studs (custom made) and various other things.

I want to use coil packs with a wasted spark setup as well because I don't like distributors.

400WHP would be nice. I will probably be running 93 octane pump gas; so, not sure how far I will be able to take it without detonation.

I already have a couple of spare V6 trannies; however, I don't want my tranny to blow in the middle of a race or when I am honking on it for whatever reason . I want to shoot for reliability with it. I will be using poly-filled MazdaSpeed motor mounts and all of the SRD bushings to get rid of wheel-hop. If that doesn't do it, maybe I will get anti-roll bars too.

RS trannies suck. Won't last you long at all. You'd need to throw in a protege transmission, and i believe you need to modify the halfshafts for that to work with the B6.

As for the 400whp comment... err, good luck. Not even planning on rebuilding the head at all, with 400hp on a B6?

The protege tranny would fit on a BP though because that is what it is on in the protege right? I'll get a BP if it means I can easily use a better tranny. As far as the head, I would at least put in better springs. What I am debating about it is whether to do Ferrea valves...

Another idea...since I know I will need a new car with more power potential after I graduate in 2009; I could spend my money on a clean mx-3 chassis and a 2JZ motor with a 6-speed manual tranny and start that project so that I will already have my platform by the time I graduate. I know those trannies take a beating.

If I do that, and someone doesn't know what to get me for christmas, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dave-Cro ... dZViewItem

Arggg, there are too many options. Whatever I do, I want it to be unique and insane. My neighbor has an eleven second N/A Monte Carlo, his friend has a 1000hp+ twin turbo Porche 911, there is a ~1000hp Supra around, a guy down the street has an insane Corvette (Don't know the numbers), another person down the street has a Porche Carrera, ... It takes quite a bit to be competitive lol

Ahh, screw that idea. I might as well put a 2JZ in a S2k. It would probably be about the same price after all of the custom crap on the MX-3 lol. http://videos.streetfire.net/search/2JZ ... 0128f8.htm

now that is one of the coolest swaps i have seen in a long time

How are the FE trannies?

I had a friend who was really close to doin that S2K swap... he had one with a blown motor, but didn't end up putting the 2JZ into it in the end.

400HP is possible on the stock head but it is going to take a LOT of pressure to get it there.

My B6T head has the Corksport 323 turbo cams, ARP studs, smoothed ports, 3-angle valve job. The key here is pressure and port velocity. I've ran 30+psi on pump gas on my setup. Its all in the tuning. You have to start with a very conservative timing map. I rev my engine to 8000rpm and still have the stock valve train & HLA's. The key here is oil pressure to keep the HLA's pumped up at high RPM's. At 3000rpm my car is running 75psi of oil pressure. Cold start is 100-110psi.

The reason I recommended the Pro-LX setup was because you will need the drive line for reliability. I do recommend upgrading the diff in it as they are a weak link.

If you want to do something different to your MX-3 put a 572 twin turbo in with a power glide trans, air shifter, Ford 9" rear end w/ locker diff & some mammoth wrinkle walls.