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10mm plug wires!?!?!

Posted: January 23rd, 2007, 8:35 pm
by ruthless_mx3
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95-MA ... dZViewItem

:confused2: does anyone else smell something or is it just me?

Are those things worth a crap cuz at $50 for any set of wires for our car is damn cheap. And why would it make a difference what plugs you use, iridium, platinum, or regular?

Just wondering cuz I'm due for a new set and I have yet to be satisfied with any set of wires I've tried. I even considered the rediculously expensive nology wires till someone said they suck. What is a good set that the stupid boots don't come off the ends and that don't interfere with the electrical.
thanks

Posted: January 23rd, 2007, 8:41 pm
by Mnemonic
i cant imagine that these would really do anymore on our cars than the 8.5mm, i know magnecore makes 10mm but there pricey as hell and they state they are for race applications to be used with highpower ignition setups.

and y is there a bump in the wire when they show the pic with the 10.2mm showing?

Posted: January 23rd, 2007, 8:44 pm
by Tunes67
Its a gimmick really.. they would work fine if you wanted them.. but likely you wouldnt see your best performance with a stock coil. You'd want to be running HEI or a aftermarket performance coil to take full advantage of them. Assuming that they are a quality product to begin with. Do a search for NGK plug wires.. they are OEM equipment for our V6's and work just fine. Best of luck.

Tunes67

Posted: January 23rd, 2007, 8:56 pm
by Mnemonic
if you want decent 8.5mm wires at not so high cost, go with accells they ARE msd, just sold under a different name and same quality as what you would get from msd but cheaper.

Posted: January 23rd, 2007, 8:58 pm
by mx3TT
i had magnercor wires, they were bad a--. but then they got stolen

Posted: January 24th, 2007, 3:58 pm
by ruthless_mx3
I have done the hei mod with pertronix "flamethrower" ignition module (no it does not shoot flames) and msd blaster 2 coil.
Right now I'm using Borg/Warner 7mm OEM replacements. They're ok except for the boot issue. It sucks when you remove a wire and the boot stays on the spark plug and you can't get a socket over the plug nor a pliers in the hole to reach the boot, especially in the rear bank. I used accell wires but the spark kept burning holes through the wire and plastic tube and then grounding itself on the head. The NGK's seem to have figured out the boot thing.
I'm looking at putting her on the bottle till I have the turbo thing worked out and designed the way I want it. Will it make a difference what wires I use? (I feel like I'm asking a stupid question) I know platinum is a no no with nitrous but how about iridium plugs? Also the ad says for platinum or iridium plugs? How would that have anything to do with wires?
:shrug:

Posted: January 26th, 2007, 8:39 pm
by Yoda
Has anyone looked in the specs of this wires? The first thing that looks suspect is the claim of 0.02K ohms. Usually this type of wire is rated by ohms/ft. or ohms/mt. I looked into the patent no. for these wires and the design on the patent claims 800ohms per metre. Calculating this in to number that you can compare to other companies advertized specs this works out to 242 ohms/ft. Some matketing guy has done a real good job of spin on the numbers to make the product better than it is. Bigger is better sells when it comes to size and lower sells when it somes to resistance. Doing a search with the patent number I found wire are sold under a dozen or more companies just in North America in 7, 8,9 and 10mm diameters. They all advertize 0.02k ohms resistance. What is this 0.02k ohms? It turns out to be 20ohms/in or 240ohms/ft. To test this theory I measured a Ractive 8mm wire and it tested at 241ohms/ft and called and had a friend at a store test a similar 10mm wire and got the same specs.

When compared to a stock or replacement wire such as a NGK which is usually 3000-5000 ohms/ft. Yes in theory these wires will conduct more power to the plugs. They're advertising that their wire have less resistance that Accel, Tayor, etc. this in only partially true. Since all manufactures make different grades of wires they aren't false advertizing because they are not specifying which wire they are comparing it to. I found out a few other things about these wires too but it is just another case of educate yourself to be sure what is advertizing spin and what is hard fact before putting down your money.

Posted: January 26th, 2007, 10:33 pm
by Steeb
^^ besides all that good stuff. unless you need a stronger spark because you are boosting so much that you are blowing out the spark plug, you will not make any more power with 10mm wires than with regular wires.

i had magnacore wires before and they have no noise suppression so you will hear a constant whining noise through your stereo that only gets louder as rpm rise. not to mention they are made very crappy. a month after i installed them i tried to change my spark plugs and 3 boots ripped like toilet paper.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 12:45 am
by Vanished
QUICK TIP:

If your boots fall off, you can easily get them out with 16 inch needle noses plyers.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 12:56 am
by Philthy
Why wouldn't you run factory NGKs?
Call your different parts houses and ask for NGK product #9579 or #9168.

Also I agree with ruthless, what difference do the plugs make to the wire?

Why is it a nono to run platinum with nitrous? just curious.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 8:41 am
by Yoda
Steeb wrote:^^ besides all that good stuff. unless you need a stronger spark because you are boosting so much that you are blowing out the spark plug, you will not make any more power with 10mm wires than with regular wires.

i had magnacore wires before and they have no noise suppression so you will hear a constant whining noise through your stereo that only gets louder as rpm rise. not to mention they are made very crappy. a month after i installed them i tried to change my spark plugs and 3 boots ripped like toilet paper.
In the case of these wire all you are getting is the same thing as their 7mm wires but with a thicker outer jacket. Their marketing guy is depending on the placbo effect of the additional diameter to make your mind believe their product is making more power. Between the human brain and your wallet 8 time out of 10 people will believe that the product is making more power or is better because it is bigger.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 10:35 am
by Yoda
Philthy wrote:Why wouldn't you run factory NGKs?
Call your different parts houses and ask for NGK product #9579 or #9168.

Also I agree with ruthless, what difference do the plugs make to the wire?

Why is it a nono to run platinum with nitrous? just curious.
There is nothing wrong with the stock NGK wire they do get the power for the distributor to the plugs but as with any ignition wire there is always a resistance value over a fixed distance.

The stock coil in your car 42000volts or approx .85amp. Assumming that the average length of wire is 1.5 feet. the stock wires have a resistance of about 4500ohms /ft. You will have a 13.7% or about 5750 volt loss at the plugs .

MSD make a wire that is 50ohms/ft given the same parameters loss with be 0.15% or about 64 volts

Like HP and Torque. With the ignition amperage is like torque is to the engine, it is more important than voltage as far as making your car faster. You have to consider the wire gauge of the conductor. Stock replacement wires have a 38ga conductor where as true perforamce wires have a 34ga conductor. The larger gauge conductor passes more amperage to the plug. This change in conductor size can mean as much as a 250% increase in amperage at the plug resulting in a stronger spark. This is what marketing guys try to confuse you with wire diameter. They market the size of the jacket and not the size of the conductor carrying the power to the plug.

Platinum is dense material extremely resistant to wear. Iridium is a even denser material and therefore extremely resistant to wear as well. Both materials are terrible thermal conductor and a bad electrical conductor. So why would anyone use it to make a spark plug? Since car manufacturers these days have to guaranty that their engines stay in-tune for up to 100,000 miles, they can only achieve this with ultra dense Iridium or Platinum. Basically they ate for people that never have there cars serviced or owned on Mitsubishi V-6 were you can only service the plugs when the intake manifold in removed. Where they do not conduct heat away for the combustion chamber the tip of the electrode remains hot and is less likely to foul. and due to there very small diameter they require less voltage to arc over the spark gap

Material Thermal Electrical
Conductivity Conductivity
W/(m•K) MS/m

Silver 407 66
Copper 384 57
Gold 310 45
Iridium 147 18
Platinum 70 10
Nickel 59 10

What does this mean as far performance goes? You are getting less power from the coil to plugs that a standard copper electrode plug. Those of you that have known me since the early days of the MX-3 world know I switched to Beru or Brisk Sliver electrode plugs early on. I recent found that all the plugs listed for my new 2.0L Zetec are Platinum or Iridium. Doing a little research I found the equivelent conventional sparkplug for this engine. With this number I was able identify a silver electrode plug that works in this engine. I as well as others that have used the Silver plugs notice a difference between the silver and standard copper/nickel. Going from a OEM platinum plugs to a Brisk Silver plug has made a night and day difference in power, throttle response and gas mileage.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 4:15 pm
by tehbrookzorz
FAQ worthy.

Posted: January 27th, 2007, 7:19 pm
by PATDIESEL
Bad a-- bit of info Vaughn. Thanks.

Posted: January 28th, 2007, 9:46 am
by ruthless_mx3
Wow
Yoda, you're always filled with so much info. You're like an encyclopedia, lol

And once again, nitrous and platinum/iridium. good or bad and why or why not.