Complete Miata Cam swap for B6, everything I need?

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » January 17th, 2007, 7:29 pm

I'm preparing to do a miata cam swap as soon as I purchase one of our fellow forum-goer's stage 2 miata cams, in my 1.6L. I want to do it right the first time, however, and get the most out of my upgrade. I'm collecting a list of all the parts needed for optimal performance, please help me out in my list, and what I need to look for:

1. Cams, of course. Stage 2. I've researched on how to swap, and i've got the concept down, hopefully it's as easy when I pull off the cover as it is in writing

2. I've been told BP injectors? I wasn't aware that they were compatible with the B6... is it a direct swap out, or do I need to look at upping the rails or anything different? A BP year preference?

3. Adjustable gears. I looked on ebay and found some unorthodox racing miata gears, is that what I'm looking for? A bit pricey for a poor boy, 300 bucks for a pair. Do I really need these? They do look pretty nice

If it's very recommended, I'd rather do the job right and cough up the money. Of course, I'd need to know which gears I need. Just the ones from the 1.6L Miata?

4. A/F Controller. I've been told this'll be useful, and I'm sure it will be, if I mess with injectors and such, but I have no clues where to start looking for one of these, what's recommended, or how much they cost.

I already got the basic CAI and exhaust squared away, I hear that helps a good bit when upping cams. Is there anything I should add to my list? Any comments and/or tips is very welcome. Please add to the list if I'm missing anything, and thanks!

- Kris

Boris · Post by **Boris** » January 17th, 2007, 7:41 pm

1990-94 BP injectors will work

Don't NEED adjustable gears, just makes everything easier.

Limegreen mx-3 · Post by **Limegreen mx-3** » January 17th, 2007, 9:04 pm

what year is ur MX-3

mazdamx3sohc · Post by **mazdamx3sohc** » January 17th, 2007, 9:41 pm

its a 1995, it says in his info.

Boris · Post by **Boris** » January 18th, 2007, 1:14 am

Limegreen mx-3 wrote:what year is ur MX-3

Good point... will the injectors still work on that year? I know they work for the sohc so i assumed they worked on the dohc.

SuperK · Post by **SuperK** » January 18th, 2007, 5:19 am

95, DOHC. Will the injectors still work, or do I look for the newer gen ones?

Josh · Post by **Josh** » January 18th, 2007, 4:30 pm

you can use squair top or round top injectors on either. you just have to swap the plugs over, real easy.

rember with the stage 2 cams you really need intake and header with exhaust to really get the maximum out of them. you dont need cam gears but it makes it alot easier. make sure when buying the cams that the lift and duration match. and when swaping them in the cams will be exactly 180deg out. so when getting them diled in make sure the lobes closest to the gears are pointed outwart from eachother, and up just above the lip of the head about 1/4". this is why adjustable gears come in handy.

then you would really benifit from a A/F controller, and a dyno tune.

definatly improved my boosted B6 dispite what everyone else says about keeping stock cams when boosting a N/A motor. i was faster with my AWD drive train, then a 220 FWHP BP with a VF10 at 12psi, i had a VJ14/16 hybrid. i never made it to the track with the AWD but with FWD and 6psi a side mount IC soft rubber IC piping, i pulled a 14.1 @ 108mph and i did crappy too. i would have broken into the 13's if my IC wouldnt have taken a crap on me and got a hole, thats why only 6psi, i had been running 15psi. oh well.
cams definatly make the engine, but there is a thing called too big, and thats where im at now with my BP. oh well now i have to deal with it.

best of luck

Boris · Post by **Boris** » January 19th, 2007, 11:20 pm

Josh wrote:cams definatly make the engine, but there is a thing called too big, and thats where im at now with my BP. oh well now i have to deal with it.

They didn't end up working that well? What happened?

Josh · Post by **Josh** » January 20th, 2007, 1:51 pm

Boris wrote:
Josh wrote:cams definatly make the engine, but there is a thing called too big, and thats where im at now with my BP. oh well now i have to deal with it.
They didn't end up working that well? What happened?

well a long story short, i listened to someone on how to dile in my gears, because i left them as they were on my monster B6 cams. so we put them to TDC and was going from there. well take in mind that my cams are 11.4mm lift, and my Valves are .060 longer than stock, but my pistons are 8.4:1 comp. well a valve hit. and bent it ever so slightly, so it idles just fine, but spits and sputters going down the road, but the higher RPMS work just fine, a huge pain in my back side. all i can say is at least its just a valve. so i need to take the head off and change the valve. but let me tell ya, i put on a comptec FPR and some 460cc rx injectors, and at 8 PSI this car is faster than my B6 was a 15psi and FWD. Crazy fast, 0-60 in like 4 sec flat. stays just inside stoich on the rich side. i cant wait to throw the stand alone on and get some real numbers. but that wont be untill spring. as im redoing my AWD swap. i got a decent welder for myself, and want to re mount the Rear end up higher in the chassis, and mount my fuel cell lower, then paint the car. so it will look "PIMP" for the summer.

i just havent had a chance to do much as i have another car in my garage with the RX8 headlights, havent finnished that car yet. and i have been laid up for the past several months for a knee sugery. i will keep all of you updated.

Boris · Post by **Boris** » January 21st, 2007, 2:34 am

Damn, at least a new valve isn't expensive, and won't take tooo much time to replace. Still a b---- though. Man there are so many questions I would have about your setup... I'm just gonna keep my mouth shut so that I save myself, and yourself a lot of typing. I can't wait to see the finished product man, you got my fav MX that I have seen so far (hell i even prefer it to that rotary rwd mx even). Keep up the good work man.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » January 21st, 2007, 9:08 pm

Boris wrote:Damn, at least a new valve isn't expensive, and won't take tooo much time to replace. Still a b---- though. Man there are so many questions I would have about your setup... I'm just gonna keep my mouth shut so that I save myself, and yourself a lot of typing. I can't wait to see the finished product man, you got my fav MX that I have seen so far (hell i even prefer it to that rotary rwd mx even). Keep up the good work man.

well it turns out its not a valve. not sure what it is. did a comp. check and they are all really close to eachother. cyl 1-175, 2-165, 3-170, 4-170.

not sure whats gogin on yet, it acts like a car with a pluged cat, but i have none. then when you hit 5K the cars gone like a bat out of hell. i know its going to be something stupid.

Just wait untill this spring, i will have my car repainted with some JDM flair. i was going to go wide body, but have since decided to keep it clean.

zoom_zoom94mx3 · Post by **zoom_zoom94mx3** » August 22nd, 2007, 12:13 pm

so i am also preparing for this stage 2 swap and i have everything i need, but i have read i a couple different places that you need to switch the intake with the exaust cam, is this true?

Bumpysbro · Post by **Bumpysbro** » August 22nd, 2007, 8:19 pm

yes on the miata the distributor is driven by the opposite cam. so put the exhaust on the intake and the intake on the exhaust. and i believe timing the stage 2 cams are 180 degrees from stock.

zoom_zoom94mx3 · Post by **zoom_zoom94mx3** » August 22nd, 2007, 8:40 pm

Bumpysbro wrote: stage 2 cams are 180 degrees from stock.

I know this is going to sound retarded, but i need to find out some how, what does "180 degrees from stock" mean?

and do you thing that i would need a valve train upgrade?

Bumpysbro · Post by **Bumpysbro** » August 22nd, 2007, 9:04 pm

the intake cam from the Miata will go on the exhaust side of the MX and vicversa. then when you time them just make sure they are 180 deg out from stock. so the first two lobes face away from eachother, and just above the edg of the head about 1/4". and you can still use your stock valvetrain. supposedly, but it depends how much wear and tear your have. but good luck im also gonna be doing this sometime soon and it might help to get adjustable cam gears if you dont have them already.
Jon