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i tried fittin my pacesetter headers last nite and im having a clearance issue.The front primary fits perfect but the rear hits the bottom of the subframe.I looked at the motor position and its sitting correctly and my mounts are good so i can really reposition the motor much.I have the ball joint type headers and the slip flanges hit the bottom of the subframe right below the firewall.Im afraid if the motor torques hard enough the header will smack the bottom of the subframe and break the studs off on the head.I basically narrowed it down to two options.Either i can try and heat up the header and bend it down about 1/2 inch to get the clearance, or i can cut a chunk out of the subframe where the header would hit if it torqued up.Id like anybodies opinions or maybe a new solution to the problem.I dont want to go out and buy a new set of headers.

I presume its the subframe on the left you are talking about,
the one thats a bit like a banana.????



or can you snap a pic of what it is doing?

no its not the lower tiebar.Its the one on the right thats painted green.It hits the bottom of that piece.Ill try and take a pic of it

Don't cut that one! thats the main subframe!
take a pic of the situation, think a bit of heating and bending
might be the answer.

yeah i realized thats a very important structural piece but the problem i have is that if were to heat up the header and bend it down the y pipe wont fit correctly.If i were to cut a small chunk out of the subframe i was planning on welding up some sort of brace above and on the sides of the cut or even just weld up a loop similar to a driveshaft loop that would go under teh header and reattach the two spots that were cut.Ill grab a pic tonight and show you what i mean.

If it clears by a 1/2" then I'd say leave it alone. Fill the front and rear mounts with urethane and call it a day. I have less clearance on the ZE intake manifold and brake MC and it has never touched. I don't drag race the car, which would be where you have the most torque, but have a good amount of track time and it has never touched. LSD with race tires give a huge amount of traction and thus all the torque is being stressed by the engine mounts on my car. Urethane filled mounts should do the trick IMO.

no it doesnt clear at all right now.The header/y-pipe flange is contacting the subframe.Id like to get at least 1/2 inch clearance after i modify what i need to.I have solid motor mounts but i still dont want to take the chance.Anyway i look at it i have to either bend the header or cut a chunk out of the bottom of the subframe.

Then I thin bending the header is the only real option. You cut that subframe and it looses stregnth, then one day it will rip apart and your car will be F-ed.

here are some pics of the header contacting with the subframe.Im pretty sure i can notch it out and just weld thick straps above the notch on both sides and be ok.

anybody got any suggestions?

There are only two options, well three.
1. Bend the header, the best, easiest and safest option.
2. Cut and weld the support. dangerous and ill advised.
3. Use stock exhaust manifolds and have a pipe made to fit around them. costly and time consuming.

ive never bent exhaust with heat before.Any tips or advise?

ive never bent exhaust with heat before.Any tips or advise?

I had to bend mine a tad. The headers were warped or just messed up when I got them. It was easy. You need an acetaline (SP?) torch to heat them enough. Then you take a prybar and insert it into the open pipe end and start pulling down. Not too much force or you'll put a dent in the pipe. Heat gradually and evenly at the spot where you want the bend. Do not let the metal get really hot. It will be temptint to just heat the crap out of it b/c it will bend more easily, but take some time and it will be fine. You could also let an exhaust shop do it for you. Should be cheap and if they F up then they repalce the headers.

so did you get them to fit?