Are these good prices or rip-offs for clutch kits?

Juans_93_MX3 · Post by **Juans_93_MX3** » November 26th, 2006, 1:59 am

If you guys can find better clutches or cheaper prices for clutchs post them up.

MY GOAL: To get a clutch that will be good for racing but good for daily driving aswell (mostly racing). I want the best bang for my buck and I only plan to use these clutches on a KLZE engine with bolt ons. I want something that will last me a long time even after racing. I don’t want something that I will have to replace too early because I “raced too much”.
NO FORCED INDUCTION!!!

Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch ($245)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Centerfo ... cription11
DFC Throw out bearing ($50)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Centerfo ... QQtcZphoto

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Clutch Masters 3 ($399)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clutch-M ... enameZWDVW

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ACT HDSS Clutch 285ft torque MAX ($329)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-HDSS ... enameZWDVW

ACT HDR4 365ft torque MAX ($289)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-HDR4 ... enameZWD1V

ACT HDR6 365ft torque MAX ($309)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-HDR6 ... 0042998649

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I couldn’t find SPEC 2 clutches
Anyway, you guys think these are good prices?
How is it possible that the ACT clutch that can handle 285ft torque costs more then the other ones that can handle more power? It just don’t make since…

BornSticky · Post by **BornSticky** » November 26th, 2006, 6:33 am

http://www.gripforce.com/clutch.asp
go with ford probe clutch same same they match up no prob haha no pun intended god i am drunk.... caugh but yeah same same

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » November 26th, 2006, 10:04 am

Unless that CFDF has got better over the years I personally would not recommend them. I have seen a large number of them self destruct. Basically all they are is a stock Dakin/ Exedy pressure plate with counterwieghts attached to the spring fingers and held in place with a wire hoop. What usually seems to happen is that wire hoop breaks and the counters weights fly off and get batted around the bell housing like pieces of grenade shrapnel tearing everything up or worse one will get wedged between the friction disk and pressure plate. In the best case you may need to change the clutch or in the worst case the clutch, flywheel and transmission like when my CFDF decided to go.

I would recommend Clutchmaster or Bully clutches

Juans_93_MX3 · Post by **Juans_93_MX3** » November 26th, 2006, 12:50 pm

Bully clutches?
Never heard of them but I'll look them up
Keep the adivce coming!
If anyone has better prices let me know

Like I said, I am looking for something that is worth the money. Something that will last me a long time of racing. I know CMIII would probably be my best bet but they are expensive $$$

Juans_93_MX3 · Post by **Juans_93_MX3** » November 26th, 2006, 1:38 pm

Check these cheap ones I found,

NT STAGE 1 RACING CLUTCH KIT 320hp ($169)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97-PR ... dZViewItem

Exedy ($108)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY-93 ... dZViewItem

Rip offs?
I cant find Bully or Spec 2 clutches

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » November 26th, 2006, 2:57 pm

The exedy clutch that you listed is all OEM. It's for the ultimate grocery getter. If you have a ze you'll probably destroy it.

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » November 26th, 2006, 3:27 pm

I have been using CF clutches for both ZE's I have had. I had a Stage 1 in the first one and now a DF in my 2nd one. I have had no issues with them at all. I beleive that they have improved thier design on the last strech of time here to make them stronger.

Having said that though, there are other clutches that are just as good or better. Spec and ACT also make a really good clutch for the probe IIRC, so check those out.

Juans_93_MX3 · Post by **Juans_93_MX3** » November 26th, 2006, 9:26 pm

I'm still way confused on the ACT clutches I listed
The ACT HDSS Clutch 285ft torque cost more then the ones that can hanlde 365ft torque.

In this case, should I go for the clutch that can handle more power because obviously it will last longer but probably be rougher on daily driving?

Also, the NT STAGE 1 RACING CLUTCH KIT 320hp Its so cheap... but why?
Rip off?

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » November 28th, 2006, 12:40 am

Yoda wrote:Unless that CFDF has got better over the years I personally would not recommend them. I have seen a large number of them self destruct. Basically all they are is a stock Dakin/ Exedy pressure plate with counterwieghts attached to the spring fingers and held in place with a wire hoop. What usually seems to happen is that wire hoop breaks and the counters weights fly off and get batted around the bell housing like pieces of grenade shrapnel tearing everything up or worse one will get wedged between the friction disk and pressure plate. In the best case you may need to change the clutch or in the worst case the clutch, flywheel and transmission like when my CFDF decided to go.

I would recommend Clutchmaster or Bully clutches

there are many things that you post that i dont fully agree with.

back in the days when clutch masters, act and centerforce and were peewee noob company to clutches, and even still today, many clutches are manufactured by exedy to particular specs per request. the clutches are rebadged and sold under brands like act, clutch master, or centerforce.

exedy clutches are about the most widely used clutches around the world for stock replacements as well as high power racing applications, this is the only time i ever heard complain about an exedy quality.

complaining about exedy quality then praising rebadged clutches produced by exedy is like saying an escort/tracer sux so buy a protege instead.

solo_ryder · Post by **solo_ryder** » November 28th, 2006, 9:22 am

Steeb wrote:
Yoda wrote:Unless that CFDF has got better over the years I personally would not recommend them. I have seen a large number of them self destruct. Basically all they are is a stock Dakin/ Exedy pressure plate with counterwieghts attached to the spring fingers and held in place with a wire hoop. What usually seems to happen is that wire hoop breaks and the counters weights fly off and get batted around the bell housing like pieces of grenade shrapnel tearing everything up or worse one will get wedged between the friction disk and pressure plate. In the best case you may need to change the clutch or in the worst case the clutch, flywheel and transmission like when my CFDF decided to go.

I would recommend Clutchmaster or Bully clutches
there are many things that you post that i dont fully agree with.

back in the days when clutch masters, act and centerforce and were peewee noob company to clutches, and even still today, many clutches are manufactured by exedy to particular specs per request. the clutches are rebadged and sold under brands like act, clutch master, or centerforce.

exedy clutches are about the most widely used clutches around the world for stock replacements as well as high power racing applications, this is the only time i ever heard complain about an exedy quality.

complaining about exedy quality then praising rebadged clutches produced by exedy is like saying an escort/tracer sux so buy a protege instead.

I do not think that is what Yoda meant to say at all. The rebadging is not a issue. He was infact talking about the counterwieghts that are exclusively used on Centerforce clutches, that is thier sales pitch. I have had 2 sets of these cluthes (with no prolbem I might add) and they are exedy clutches with Daikan pressure plates as stated, but with added coutnerwieghts on the clutch tooth with a wire hoop around them. I know it is possible to break them, but I have not had a issue yet. Here is a pic of what we mean:

MX-3.com

Are these good prices or rip-offs for clutch kits?

Which clutch? Got any better prices, post them up

Are these good prices or rip-offs for clutch kits?