Small bubbles on the oil stick is symptom of water in oil, right?
I ear loud engine ticking noise when cold starting (more than ever).
Does that means water is taking over and its urgent to change the oil??
I know I'll have to change piston gaskets coz they are blow. But it's just so hard to find block gaskets for the K8!
I wonder if I could repair the existing gaskets with loads of gasket sealant...
Water in oil
Water in oil
K8 running LPG (Liquified Petrol Gas)
- jschrauwen
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Perhaps a quick oil change and confirmation if the "bubbles" return might be indicative of a slight blown head gasket. Extreme temperature changes coupled with a lack of no oil changes could eventually lead to a build-up of moisture within the oil sump giving the impression of a compromised head gasket. That sort of situation would also have to be accompanied by consistant (months upon months) short runs or periods of engine running where the engine never gets a chance to reach operating temperatures. An engine that's used consistantly for extreme short duration could also accumulate a build up of moisture within the sump if it's not permitted to run at normal engine operating temperatures for a minimal amount of time.
A blown head gasket could manifest itself by turning the engine oil into a milky light brownish colour where the coolant has mixed with the oil.
A blown head gasket could manifest itself by turning the engine oil into a milky light brownish colour where the coolant has mixed with the oil.
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head gasket failure would as josh said mix coolant & oil int a brown or white goo.
but condensation biuld up in the dipstick tube is common and will look like water drops on the stick .
when you change the oil try blowing out the dipstick tube while draining oil.
computor duster would work nise or brake cleaner.
or your mouth
recheck oil every 100 miles and if condensation returns your pcv system needs work
but condensation biuld up in the dipstick tube is common and will look like water drops on the stick .
when you change the oil try blowing out the dipstick tube while draining oil.
computor duster would work nise or brake cleaner.
or your mouth
recheck oil every 100 miles and if condensation returns your pcv system needs work
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93 gs, klde swap, kl trans, strait 2.5'' ehaust, euro front bumper, cold air intake, hei ign ,50 shot &
9.60s n the 8th mile so far 8.50s sprayn now
150 shot
93 gs, klde swap, kl trans, strait 2.5'' ehaust, euro front bumper, cold air intake, hei ign ,50 shot &
9.60s n the 8th mile so far 8.50s sprayn now
150 shot
Well, after your words, I decided not to change the oil by now.
Since the oil is pretty new (less than 1k miles) and the smal bubbles in the oil on the dipstick had misteriously gone (also the loud noise is gone).
All this worry started because I've made a major hack on the cooling system, converting it in a heater system instead. So one ride it over heatead and I thought some over presurised water had enter the oil system.
I've done that tweek to heat the block faster so my LGP system would turn on more quickly on the every day small rides I take to work place.
Sorry my learning english and thanks for your help![Wink ;-)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Since the oil is pretty new (less than 1k miles) and the smal bubbles in the oil on the dipstick had misteriously gone (also the loud noise is gone).
All this worry started because I've made a major hack on the cooling system, converting it in a heater system instead. So one ride it over heatead and I thought some over presurised water had enter the oil system.
I've done that tweek to heat the block faster so my LGP system would turn on more quickly on the every day small rides I take to work place.
Sorry my learning english and thanks for your help
![Wink ;-)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
K8 running LPG (Liquified Petrol Gas)